Before we began to construct the sawhorse, let's discuss the supply's listed above. We choose the black plastic sawhorse brackets because we wanted something that was lightweight, black in color and easy to assemble and disassemble and brackets that would allow different width's of the top board. The sawhorse bracket box shown below is perfect for what we wanted and we highly recommend them for your use.
The four 30" long 2x4's are specifically for the legs of the sawhorse and can be any length that you desire. Whatever size you select, be it 24", 30", 36" or more, will determine the height of the sawhorse and ultimately how high the person is that is placed on the sawhorse. A tall person might prefer a longer leg - say about a 36" because that would put the sawhorse high enough to work on the submissive without having to bend over and put a strain on your back. A shorter person might prefer shorter legs, say 24" or so. You can actually make them any height you want or have multiple heights if you prefer, but you'll need four of each height you choose. If you want, you can cut these yourself or have them cut to size at the lumber yard. The quality of the wood is not important since you will be painting over it anyway.
The top piece is the board that goes across the top of the sawhorse from one sawhorse bracket to another. We have selected a 2" x 4" - 38" long board, but again you can customize it to any length you desire. Most females are between five and six foot tall so if you're using your sawhorse for females only, than a 38" board should work out OK. A good way to tell is to measure your subject while on all fours (doggy style) from the tip of their head to the roundest point of the buttocks. To that number add a 6 extra inches on each end of the board for movement and to that add 4 inches for attaching to the sawhorse brackets. So then if they measure 30" from head to tail and you add 6" for subject movement and 4" for attaching to the brackets, you end up with a 40" board (30"+6"+4"=40"). Also, please note that you will need to drill a hole 2" from each end of the board so that your top board can house the bolt that will attach to the sawhorse brackets on each end..
IT IS IMPORTANT to remember that you'll need sawhorse brackets that accept different widths of the top board. If you click on the photo of the sawhorse bracket box above you will see that they advertise that you can use a 4", 6" or 12" wide top board. The reason this is important is that wider boards are more comfortable for longer play times and for people who are carrying more weight. The heaver the person, the more uncomfortable a narrow board can be so you want to purchase sawhorse brackets that will accept multiple widths of top boards. Also, if you turn your subject around and have them lay back on the top of the sawhorse, a wider board is much safer. Keep in mind, the more comfortable your subject, the longer they will want to stay on the sawhorse. Whatever discomfort they may feel, should be that which is administered AFTER they are positioned on the sawhorse.
The only thing you need to consider about the eye bolts is that they be the type that have wood screw threads on one end so that you can easily screw them into the legs of your sawhorse. And of course, the can of flat black spray paint is so that you can paint the raw wood you're using in the project. Also, you'll need to purchase a small piece of sponge foam carpet padding - something about 3' wide and the width of the padding. So you may end up with a piece 3'wide by 50" long depending upon the width of the roll of padding. This stuff is very inexpensive so pick up a nice thick piece.
In addition to the hardware store trip, you'll also need to make a stop at a fabric store. Here you will purchase the black vinyl fabric for covering the top board. Again like padding, this comes in a fixed roll width (say 40" wide) and your option is how wide a piece you want them to cut for you (say 3' wide) so you may end up with a piece that's 3' x 40" or so. The cost for the vinyl fabric we purchased was around $5.00 and we have enough to do top boards in various sizes.
The first thing we need to do is paint our sawhorse legs which should already be cut to size. We took a cardboard box and cut it in half and placed the legs across the two box pieces as shown on the left. We did this outside because the spray paint can make a mess if you do it indoors. Spray first one side and the edges and then when it dries to the touch, spray the other side. Keep in mind it's better to spray twice than put on so much that the paint runs down the wood.
Step Two After you paint the legs, you will need to paint the top board. However, since the fabric is going to cover most of the board, it only needs to be sprayed on each end about a third of the way into the board. Once all of your boards are dry, you'll want to put the fabric on your board. First, get our your stapling gun and wrap foam padding around the board as shown on the photo on left side.
Staple a line of staples into the to board leaving about six inches unstapled on each end of the board.. Step Three Next, wrap the foam padding around the board until the padding meets up with the side that it already attached then cut the padding so that the two sides butt together. Staple the remaining foam padding (as shown in photo on left) except for about six inches from each end. The reason you're leaving an unstapled area on each end is because you will need to tuck the black vinyl under the foam on each end. As you can see we are using a heavy duty staple gun because we need to use long staples.
Step Four Now begins the finish part. Place the black fabric so that it fits around the padded board and cut the length of the fabric about six inches longer than the padding on the board. Lay the fabric under the foam padding and fold it around to the back side as shown on photo at left side. Note that the seems of the foam padding and the fabric both attach at the bottom of the board. Center the fabric so that you have three extra inches on each end. Carefully fold the extra fabric and tuck it beneath the foam padding. Repeat the tucking on the other end of the padding.
Step Five Step Five is attaching the vinyl/leather fabric to the board. After you've folded and tucked the end pieces, bring together to two long pieces of black fabric so that each sides butt's up against the other side. If needed trim the fabric to fit snuggly against each other. DO NOT OVERLAP THE TWO PIECES OF FABRIC. When you're satisfied with the fit, begin stapling each side to the board. At this point, you are stapling through both the fabric and the padding, so you will need a reasonably long staple. Once stapling is completed, simply follow sawhorse bracket instructions to finish putting your piece together. Happy Horsing...

We think the test of any piece of equipment is how much access it allows us to the submissive. The nice thing about the spanking sawhorse is that it allows almost total access no matter where we put our subject. One of our favorite positions is to put the submissive laying down on her back with her ankles in leather restraints and attached to ceiling hung chains. This gives us complete access to the subject. Another favorite position is having the submissive sit on the sawhorse with her ankles in restraints and attached to the legs of the sawhorse while her wrists are also in restraints and attached to ceiling hooks. And then of course, a position of contrition for those subjects who need behavior modification.