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My First Trip to Moscow

August 21 to September 5, 1998

Around Moscow

(Ilia Rosenberg's comments are in italics.)

Statue in the Old Arbat There is a street called the Arbat (pronounced R-bot) that has many street vendors and shops that sell souvenirs. That's the Old Arbat; there is a New Arbat that has more upscale fare. This statue is located along the Old Arbat. It looks like a go-go dancer from a bygone era. That's not a goose that I'm carrying; it's just a shopping bag.

In the background is Moscow's famous Vakhtangov Theater. For decades, the most famous production of that theater was Giacomo Puccini's Turandot. I wanted to revive old memories and went there to see the latest production. The world famous opera was filled with political jokes, maybe relevant to the modern period of Russian history, but only very remotely resembling the Turandot as a world famous classic. I barely managed to wait until the end of the first act and promptly retreated.

Man and Horse Married couples in Russia try to visit various places for good luck. One of the possibilities is this statue of Marshal Zhukov riding a horse in front of a big red building just off Red Square. Other popular spots are the Eternal Flame and St. Basil's.

Big Red Building This big red building is just off Red Square. I don't know what the building is. The statue of Zhukov riding a horse is to the left in the shadows.

Married...with Zhukov This newlywed couple asked anyone who had cameras to take their picture, and I couldn't seem to dodge the fellow in the striped sweater no matter how hard I tried. There was a stiff breeze coming from Red Square, and the bride had her hands full keeping her hat on and her dress and bouquet under control. They certainly seemed happy enough. A traditional glass of vodka is in the groom's hands.

Tomb of the Unknown Soldier The Russian Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Just barely visible at right center is an Eternal Flame. There was a changing of the guard in progress, I think. You can also seem some protective material hanging around the M things on the Kremlin wall.

Boris Yeltsin's Lonely Hearts Club Band This picture, taken on a different day from the previous picture, is actually of the area right in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, which is off to the left. We weren't allowed in the area that day, because Boris Yeltsin was supposed to make an appearance. The military band in attendance was in the process of getting warmed up. I called it "Boris Yeltsin's Lonely Hearts Club Band." We waited about 20 minutes for Boris to show, but we were getting cold and hungry, so we left.

Boxy Building A large building built during Khrushchev's era. I'm not sure what it is or was used for; I think somebody said it was an office building now. The architecture was intended to look Western to impress visiting Westerners.

No More Changes This large apartment building with asymmetrical sides has an interesting story. It was built during Stalin's reign. Stalin's architect drew up the plans so that the left and right sides of the drawing reflected two alternative styles, and Stalin was supposed to pick the one that both sides would be built to. This was too clever for Stalin, who signed off on the drawing for the building to be built exactly as drawn. The architect didn't dare tell Stalin that he had made a mistake, and the building was constructed to the drawing. Architects have a hard time in Russia.

Now there is a Spanish restaurant on the first floor, and I have found the safest food to be an outdated Corona beer. Traditional Spanish cuisine, especially dishes made of lamb, are highly not recommended.

Boardwalk I don't know what this is called, but it is a relatively new addition to Moscow. It contains a large number of Western-style shops and eateries. One of our Russian interpreters said that it was an abomination. I thought it was pleasant and new-looking, if a bit slick. It certainly seemed popular enough.

This is Okhotnyj Ryad--a modern shopping mall creation of the Moscow Mayor Yuri Luzhkov. When there was a great influx of foreigners and foreign companies in Russian several years ago, Luzhkov sponsored the construction from the Moscow city budget with the idea to charge Fifth Avenue prices from the companies competing for the prime spot. By the time the construction was finished a year or so ago, the real estate market had crashed together with the whole economy, and this became yet another unsuccessful commercial endeavor.

Boardwalk 2 Another view of the same shopping center. Perhaps they were trying to create a Venetian atmosphere. Obviously, it wasn't windy that day.

Fountain Arch 2 More of the same shopping center. Sort of puts the old Huntsville Mall fountain to shame, eh?

Fountain Arch It is possible to walk under the fountain without getting (very) wet.

Fairy Tale Fountain Same shopping center, different fountain. In the water are statues representing different Russian fairy tales. I'm not sure which fairy tale has the bear and other figures in it; presumably, it's not Winnie the Pooh.

Russian McDonalds The McDonald's that is within walking distance of the hotel. They have pretty much the same food as any American McDonald's. Quarter Pounders here (and probably throughout Europe) are called Royal Cheeseburgers because of the metric system.

Blue Building This building, across from the McDonald's above, houses at least a couple of stores and a pizza place. The yellow of the building with the Nestle's Quik bunny and his entangled candy-cane straw seem to violently clash with the cool blue. On my second trip, I noticed that the Quik bunny building had been painted completely yellow. They should have painted the building blue and left the bunny!

Red, White, and Blue Church A pretty Russian Orthodox (what else?) church. Some of these churches were bulldozed during the Stalin era, although most were utilized as warehouses or storage facilities. Many are being restored, at presumably great expense. By the way, the gold-colored domes are coated with real gold leaf.

Russia Hotel The Russia Hotel. The letters at the top say "Russia." Russians tend to go in for large multi-unit dwellings--they're probably easier to heat, for one thing--but this is an extreme case; this hotel is huge! You will see the Russian Orthodox church in the foreground better in the next picture.

Old Church A very old church in front of the Russia Hotel.

Penta Hotel Restaurant The thing that looks like an inverted colander houses the restaurant of the hotel I stayed at. It may have had a few other shops in it. I didn't go there much because everything there was expensive. While I was there, the hotel's name changed to Renaissance Hotel Moscow. They also changed accounting systems, and the JSC Travel Office had a lot of trouble figuring out my travel voucher as a result.


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Author: Porter Clark <jpc@suespammers.org>
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Last update: December 31, 2001