This pattern is for umanori-bakama which are "horse-riding" hakama and divided into pants. Andon-bakama is similar but lacks a division for the legs and is just a skirt. I've constructed the following pattern based on other patterns. The purpose of this pattern is simplicity in cutting the pattern with the least complexity in sewing and minimal use of fabric. But if you are serious about sewing a hakama I would highly recommend Folkwear's Hakama 151 pattern (www.folkwear.com). 1. Size yourself: 2. The width of your fabric needs to be equal to : your back-to-floor measurement minus about 2 inches (if you are conservative you can wait to trim the 2 inches after you've finished the hakama so you can determine exactly how close to the floor you want it to hang). If your fabric is short by just 1 or 2 inches, this is still Ok: your hakama will be a bit above ankle level. 3. Layout your
fabric, doubling it and cut away any folds. Right sides should
be together. Layout the pattern using pins and making the following
adjustments: 4. Cut the section from E to I to F. Save the scraps. 5. Now sew a 1/2 seam from E-I-F 6. With wrong side of the material facing you, fold in Points GL with a slight curve. Fold one more time along HL, again with a slight curve. Now sew about from point H to L about 1/4" from edge to keep the fold. Now flip the hakama over and perform this on the other side. 7. With wrong side of the material facing you, fold in Points JM (no curve). Fold one more time along KM. Now sew about from point K to M about 1/4" from edge to keep the fold. Now flip the hakama over and perform this on the other side.
Sew or iron the layers together.
If you do not have iron-on-interfacing which is usually for light
to medium weight fabrics you can substitute any of the following: 9. Cut the casing for the back piece: 10. with right sides together, sew from point U to R to S to T, leaving UT open. Now turn inside out and press. Tuck the interfacing piece into the casing. 11. Cut two belts: You now need to cut 2 belts with the following
measurements: 12. 12a) Perform
the following on both the back and front belt. Fold the belt
in half the long way, with wrong sides folded inward. Press.
This is to create the center fold. 12b. Perform the following on both the back and front belt:
Unfold the belt and now fold each lengthwise side in towards
the center fold you had created.
First, figure out what 40% of your waist measurement is. Layout
a ruler: when you are working the folds, you want the total width
of the front piece of the hakama to fit within this measurement
(40% of your waist measurement). Now, bring in the fabric on
either side of point E to form 1 pleat in the center along E,
and UNDER this pleat, two more pleats on either side of it. Each
pleat goes under the next. Use your 40% of waist measurement
to work the pleats out. Once you're done, press the pleats, and
then sew across the top to hold the pleats. 15. Now we're going to pleat the backside. Again, layout the hakama, WRONG side down, right side up, with the center point F in front of you, and points B on either side. Instead of using 40% of your waist measurement as the width, you are going to use the bottom of the back-piece (not counting the belt which extends on either side) to size it. Instead of 3 pleats you will have 2, and instead of tucking each pleat underneath, the pleats will go on top of the last pleat. Bring the 2nd and last pleat on each side over and on top of the first pleat, so that the pleats meet in the center (the first pleat will be hidden by the 2nd). Again, sew across the top to hold the pleats.
17b. Now fold the belt down on that center line so that the belt is encasing the hakama. See figure 17b. Sew from one end of the belt bottom to the other end. This will close up the belt and sew it to the hakama at the same time. Make sure to tuck in the far ends of the belt so that fabric edges aren't exposed and sew up those ends as well. 18.Sew the sides together matching point L to point M and point C to point D, then sewing down from point L/M to point C/D. This creates the seam along your outer thigh, creating the first leg of the Hakama. Repeat on the other side. 19. Hem the bottom of the hakama. The edge of the hakama should be around or above your ankle. See instructions on the website on how to wear the hakama. |
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