Sun-duk and I actually met through "sogyeting" - Konglish for a blind date. It wasn't as simple as that, however; just meeting proved to be an arduous task in itself.
Back in July 1998, I was living and working in Taejon, a city of about one million 150 km south of Seoul, while Sun-duk had recently moved to the capital from Pusan. We were both a little lonely at the time - I weary of the all-male staff's antics at Taejon University, she finishing her first semester at Ewha Women's University's Graduate School of International Studies -, but had nothing but simple friendship in mind when a common friend suggested we get together in Seoul and discover that historic city's many beautiful sites and museums.
The idea was deemed acceptable (!) by us both. We exchanged e-mail addresses and phone numbers through the third party, and made contact. I sent a scanned picture of himself to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, where Sun-duk was doing a summer internship. She looked at it, and beard aside, found me somewhat good-looking; I called her the next day, and apart from the husky voice, considered her pleasantly outgoing. A day and time were agreed upon: six-thirty Friday evening, downtown, at the enrance to the Kyobo Bookstore.
I took the express train from Taejon and arrived early to take advantage of a rare opportunity to go on a spree at a real bookstore. I spent a couple of hours with the friend who had "set" them up, then, at roughly 6:10, took my position outside the door facing the Burger King restaurant, and patiently waited... for the next fifty minutes. Now, Sun-duk had told me that she might be a little late, but I certainly didn't expect to be twiddling my thumbs until seven o'clock.
1998 being the year 1 B.C. (Before Cellphone mania) in Korean terms, I dug into my pockets, pulled out Sun-duk's beeper number and left her a message from a phone booth, telling her that whatever she was up to, I would be at the McDonald's restaurant a block away until nine before retiring to the neighbourhood YMCA. With a shrug and a quickstep that would have made Chaplin proud, I set off for Fast Food Central.
Meanwhile, Sun-duk had also been waiting at the Kyobo entrance... the one just around the corner! She had tried to page me, but my beeper, I later found out, only worked in Taejon. She called up our friend, and was mystified to learn that she had left me at Kyobo. Miffed at being stood up, she went to the nearest subway station to go home. She was just about to walk through the turnstile when her beeper went off. She listened to the message and rushed to meet me.
Well, we spent almost every waking hour together that weekend, going from one place to another - royal palaces and folk museums in Chongno, traditional tea houses in Insadong, shops and restaurants in the Shinchon, Kangnam and Itaewon areas - and it was with heavy hearts that we at last parted late Sunday night at the Seoul train station. From the outset, it was as though we had always known each other. There was none of that awkwardness which mars the beginning of a relationship as it lurches ever so haltingly toward friendship. Intimacy, intellectual and spiritual, was instant. That all sounds very trite, especially if you've never met the "love of your life"; but there it was, and we refuse to apologise for it. And the rest, as they say, is history...
For Koreans, fifteen-degree weather is shiwonhada, cool; anything below is deemed cold. Freezing weather is 'extremely cold', and if snow falls (never more than a centimetre a day), traffic fatalities skyrocket. (One of the funniest sights for a Canadian is watching Koreans clear sidewalks and streets with straw brooms! Gee, don't break your backs, there, fellas!
As a result of growing up in the southern part of South Korea, Sun-duk needs to put on a lot of extra layers of clothing just to keep warm at five degrees. Right now, it's late October in Ulaanbaatar, and she feels like it's absolute zero out there. She's wearing long underwear, two pairs of socks, a t-shirt, a sweater, a jacket and a coat, as well as a toque, mitts and boots. I go out in my suit (short-sleeved shirt) and unlined overcoat, with loafers covering up a pair of holey socks... And I'm fine! We both hope the baby gets that gene of mine marked 'antifreeze'!
Names. The informality of English and French cultures in Canada, and the highly stratified nature of Confucianist Korea, has meant some adjustments for both sides.
On our first and only trip to Canada two years ago, Sun-duk was stymied by what she should call my parents, sister, aunts, uncles, etc. I told her to call everyone by their first name. She managed to do this with most everyone, but she felt very uncomfortable and impolite calling my father 'Jean-Claude' and my mother 'Madeleine'. On the plane back to Korea, she asked me if I could think up of any alternatives, and I immediately suggested 'Maman' and 'Papa', which is what I call my parents. She thought that was sufficiently respectful, so the issue was resolved then and there, to be applied the next time the four of us meet.
Of course, my case was not nearly as clear-cut with Sun-duk's family. Every family member has a title which varies according to the position the speaker occupies. Sun-duk hasn't even bothered teaching me her relatives' names, except her siblings'; she just tells me to call this aunt Ajumma, and that uncle Ajoshi. Her mother is my Changmonim, mother-in-law, and this is how I must address her (my mother is Sun-duk's Shi-omoni). And even though I know her sisters' names, I can't use them; I have to call them 'Sister-in-law' (there are four kinds: the husband's older and younger sisters-in-law, and the wife's older and younger sisters-in-law).
When we get to cousins, second cousins, great-aunts and the like - older or younger, male or female -, then even the Koreans begin to scratch their heads and consult one another for the proper form of address! Is it any wonder I simply avoid using names altogether and just talk to my in-laws?!