Extreme 280zxt

Last additions 01-17-2010

Fuel Delivery page

Exhaust page

Performance web pages

Page Links

Elgin custom cams (650)364-2187
Aeromotive (fuel system components)(816) 333-7300
Motorsport Auto(800)633-6331
NissanMotorSports,(online parts) (310) 538-2610
	Well I have decided to take the time and provide the information on the different modifications I have made to my car. I must say it has been a long road to getting the parts to complete my modifications. I had no idea it would be such a hassle to complete the modifications. I have found the 79-83zx cars were not in most of the performance catalogs. I hope these mods are a help to other zcar people. To the left, I have listed most of the vendors I have utilized in one way or another for the parts and accessories on my car. Hope these links help you find the part you are looking for. I have completed most of the upgrades there are for the car, and some I don't think anybody has done. This page is here to provide other Z car owners information to help build a good running car, and maybe a little racing hehehe. Enjoy the page and let me know if you have some stuff you think would be a good addition to the various pages I have built.
System1 filters(559) 687-195
Metric Hardware(810) 264-0410
Porterfield Brakes(800) 537-6842 (949) 548-4470
Dynamic Auto Sports(949) 457-1234
TMR for Earls fittings(714) 771-1348
ARP Studs (800) 826-3045
Steve Millen(714) 540-9154 (talk to Andrew)
Jim Wolf Technology (619) 442-0680
JE Pistons (714) 898-9763
Z Barn(800) 247-2793

I have designed a custom 3" stainless steel exhaust system for the turbo applications. I will provide this system to other car owners that would like the benefit of an excellent flowing turbo system along with a system that will meet smog requirements. The system is able to install on any 79-83 ZX body style car. I plan to expand the system to the N/A cars in the future. I am also planning other upgrades to the rest of the car that I hope will improve the overall performance of the engine, and handling.

I hope you find the information I have provided informative, comprehensive, and the jokes not to annoying. Check back from time to time as my page is frequently changing with new write ups and pictures of the upgrades. I am still collecting all the pictures and explaining them in detail, Rome was not built in one day. If you happen to come across misspelled words dont let it bother you. I have been working on this page and code for a while and it all starts to look like a bunch of Z's and W's after awhile. LOL

Here is a list of most of the performance upgrades I have completed on my car to date.
Ok here we go:
1) Quaife posi unit, 3.71 gear set
2) 60mm T/B Nissan 240SX unit.
3) custom built spearco intercooler 209-sp
4) bored 88mm
5) stroked with LD28 crank
6) JE pistons and molly rings.
7) custom length Crower rods.
8) GT35R ballbearing turbo with a .63 A/R exhaust turbine housing and a Tial 44mm external waste gate.
9) custom fuel rail, Aeromotive pressure regulator.
10) 720cc injectors with fuel pressure set to 3 bar.
11) 1990 Z32 300zx ECU with Ford MAF.
12) New Mcloud clutch disc and pressure plate, custom unit from Mcloud.
13) hurst shifter for the TKOII.
14) TKO2 Tremec transmission, Needed the torque capibilities of the TKO.
15) complete modified suspension, sway bars, poly control arm bushings. Tokico rear adjustables and KYB fronts, Suspension Technique springs all the way around. I have also made the rear control arms adjustable also. I have set up the front with 1 degree of camber and 6 degrees of caster, the rear of the car is set to 1 degree of camber to improve the overall handling of the car. I still need to do some improvements to the rear of the car as it feels like it wants to keep turning when I am up around 130mph. The car is solid, but I dont like the feeling I have to stop the car from progressing on it's own in a turn, the turn should feel like I am forcing the turn and not like I have to stop the turn. I have solved the turning issue with a modification to the strut tensioning rods. I have replaced the ends with chrome molly rod ends and now the tire is fixed at what I adjusted the caster to.
16) CR Racing aluminum radiator, crossflow unit.
17) Electric cooling fan, and new CSI electric water pump.I ma going to the LD pump for testing
18) ISKY custom grind cam and adjustable Tomei cam sprocket.
19) 1mm steal head gasket.
20) ARP head and main studs.
21) Manley stainless steel valves, fully ported and polished head with stock diameter intake valves and 1.490" exhaust valves.
22) Stock Turbo exhaust manifold, ported and welded to open up the ports.
23) 3" stainless steel exhaust system I designed for all turbo applications on the zx cars.
24) six coil packs, coils rated at 1.25 millijuels.
25) Blitz dual VBC boost controller.
26) HKS blowoff (recirculation) valve.
27) Fidanza 11Lb Aluminum Flywheel.
28) Magnafuel external fuel pump.
29) Custom made and bent 1/2" fuel line with 316L seamless stainless steel tube .034 thick.
30) Competition Raceteck oil pressure/temp gauge, and Apex manual boost gauge. Both units installed in the gauge cluster.
31) Modified for the ZX cars, Nismo 8 quart racing oil pan, that part cost me a bundle.
32) 13 row oil cooler, with adapter, stainless steel lines, and A/N fittings.
33) System1 oil filter.
34) 12" brake upgrade with outlaw calipers, porterfield pads, and coleman rotors.
35) Shot peened stub axels, Moroso 1/2" X 20 studs with Mcgard lug nuts.
36) Custom made, modified rear cross member. I removed the rubber inserts and machined a solid type mount for the cross member. I also welded the entire cross member. Now the rear tires will not move under heavy torque or accelleration. I installed rear adjusters for the control arms as well.
The car is plumbed with stainless steel lines for the fuel, the oil and just about any place I could install stainless steel lines LOL. I was running my fuel pressure at 4 bar and I did not feel comfortable with the standard fuel injection hose because I had some problems with hose leaks at the connectors, and since I did not want my car to burn down, I decided stainless steel lines were the only thing that would make me feel secure there would be no leaks.

The new transmission is a Tremec TKOll 5 speed and that unit is rated at a higher torque capability then the T56 unit. I have read figures from 425-525 foot pounds of torque. The Ford tranny will be the easyest fit to the car. I retrofitted to the stock bell housing without to much problem with the help of some friends that did some excellent welding. The clutch hub will have to be changed to fit the spline, but that really is not much of a problem. The drive line will have to be modified for the new yoke on the output shaft, and the cross member modified. The throw out bearing is also modified to fit the Tremec, and a different bearing used. I still had to modify the shifter position, and move it back 3 inches with the help of Keisler Automotive, but that is about it for that install. The top speed of the car with the .82 overdrive, will be about 165 MPH. I dont intend on going that fast, but that is what I feel is my best choice taking the diff gearing into account, and the fifth gear options for the tranny.
I needed a stronger transmission for the car to be able to race it without munching the transmission. The stock T5 held up well on the dyno, but I am certain that I would have destroyed the unit with a good set of slicks on the car.

I dont have a pop off valve and have plugged it off with a 1" pipe plug from Nissan. I dont have a problem with that modification, my system can handle anything the turbo can through at it.

The ECU I am using is a 1990 Z32 unit. I had difficulties with the Z31 unit that incorporates a single coil and distributor. I could not make the unit work well enough to run into the higher horse power levels. The Z32 unit incorporates a coil on plug configuration, fully sequential system for both injection and for ignition. I reqired a longer spark duration a single coil system could not provide.

Well I decided to dyno the car with the T5, it did well on the dyno. The weak point in the system was the Center Force clutch for this run. The car dynoed out at 380 Hp @ 428 Foot Pounds of Torque at the rear wheels, when the clutch gave up. The longer stroke with the LD28 crank shaft paid off in the torque of the engine. I have a new clutch built by Superior Friction in Northern California by Robin. I just installed the new clutch and have about 500 miles on the unit now. This clutch holds the power very well, but with a race application unit, it is a notchy clutch compaired to a stock clutch configuration. I looked at a number of options for a clutch and all of the high grab clutches will have this characteristic unfortunately. I think it is time for another dyno run so I can continue my evaluation of the engine performance. The second run on the dyno got the engine to 415 Hp @ 473 foot pounds of torque. The new clutch held very well, and the T5 held in there with all the power it was getting.
I have begun to spec the cam performance, but at this point it is a toss up wether the cam is running out or the turbo is just out of air. I am going to start again with a new turbo and go from there. I ran three turbo applications, and ended yp with the GT35R Garret turbo. I am specifically looking at the cam characteristics for this particular grind I have designed. I am looking to get the power, serious power, band well into the 6000 rpm range. I have been able to pull about 658 horse power from the engine on a dynojet, and that is when one big problem reared its ugly, and expensive head. I started having heating difficulties with the engine after I pushed the power past 500 horse power. I have been working on this porblem for some time, and have spoken to a number of people like Wade Hampton, John Knepp, Frank Honsowetz, regarding their experience with the Electra Motive race car. I was able to make some significatnt modifications of the engine block and cylinder head to keep the engine cool. I don't believe the temperature control is fully finished up, but at this point it is very manageable, and I can push the car without over heating the engine, however, in the summer heat, I still have a slight heating problem while running high horse power with the A/C running LOL. So that is my goal, to win a race with you with my A/C running. LOL

I was running 205 tires on the front and the rear of the car but finally got the new centerline wheels installed. I am running set of Centerline Convo pro's on the car now. I had to make wheel adapters for the excessive back space on the front for the wheels. I am running 3/4" spacers to space them out away from the strut tubes. The rear wheels fit the car perfect with the 5" back space on the wheel. I have gotten a set of axels shot peened and stress relieved. I wanted to be sure these things would stay on the car. I also upgraded the wheel studs to moroso 1/2" studs with Mcgard lugnuts all the way around the car. I dont think I will have any problems loosing a wheel with this setup, and the good thing about the upgrade is that I can still run stock wheels if I want to.

Anyway happy racing guys, and always make safety your priority whatever you do with your car, and that includes the parts and components you use to build the car.

Many people have seroiusly hurt themselves by driving unsafe and utilizing parts that are not good quality. My suggestion is that if money is to much of an issue, then wait, get the money for the best part you can. Myself, I only put the very best parts in my car even if it means I have to spend twice as much one one vendors part then I can get it at another place if the quality is more suited to my application.

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