If you're starting with a juvinile Iguana you're probably considering something small, this would be a mistake...... The big, healthy, personable Iguana, that is the ultimate goal of all Green Iguana owners, will (or rather, can) grow to be just that in a year or two. And that ultimate Iguana is going to require alot of room. The key to this growth rate is diet and enclosure size. If you don't have, or are not willing, to dedicate a large portion of your home to your Iguana, you have chosen the wrong pet. Also, if you are considering not pushing your Iguana to it's adult stage by depriving these elements, you are setting the both of you up for a big downfall, for without these requirements, your Iguana, and all money and time you'll spend, will perish upon the death of your pet. That being said, lets continue......
If at all possible, living in a warm state being the requirement, try to keep your Iguana outdoors, at least partially even if your climate isn't warm enough year round. There are many lights you can acquire at your local herp shops, and they will work efficiently enough, but there is no light out there that can compete with the benefits of natural sunlight, not to mention the cost comparison. A good outdoor enclosure can be nothing more than an oversized rabbit pen. I use 2" x 2" wood to frame out the cage, and the small blocked metal screening to enclose the frame. All outdoor cages need a shaded area within where the Iguana can go should it become overheated. Indoor enclosures can be easily constructed using a couple of plywood sides and a screened front and top. The reason for the screened top is for light placement. Typical enclosure dimensions for either cage is as follows: 1 Iguana 5'H x4'W x 4' deep. You can start your Igg in a smaller enclosure at first, but start getting that permanent enclosure together ASAP! You will need to add branches of appropriate size,Iguanas love to climb,so the more the merrier,but be sure not to add so many that it becomes cumbersome to clean the cage and/or inhibits the handling of your Iguana.Pine bark,Alfalfa pellets,and newspaper are all good substrates for the bottom of your enclosure,do not use anything that can be ingested,but not digested,such as fish gravel.If you are using an outside enclosure,you may wish to consider screening the bottom instead of using a substrate for virtual self cleaning. The same could be used for indoors,with the addition of a catch pan.
One of the worst things I as a reptile enthusiast see, is the consistant dehabilitation of Green Iguanas through improper diet. Usually this is attributed to the neglegence of irresponsible owners,to which whom, I find no excuse for this. For we live in a time where we can access an abundance of information,and the Green Iguana is no stranger to study.It is up to the individual owner to find such information,and to find some consistancy of truth within. I am going to give in this writing, some of the afor mentioned truths I have found.
Let me start by saying that the Green Iguana is a Herbivorous species from birth. Many juvinile Iguanas will relish a small arthropod givin the chance,but it is my belief that at this stage in their life they tend to be more opporotunistic in their feeding behaviors for reasons of survival.Givin that we are discussing captive Green Iguanas,the only threat to existance for these Iggs lays on the head of their owners.Insects can cause many malfunctions in the unique, but fragile anatomy of these pets.
Green Iguanas require fresh food daily.This food should consist of a variety of fruits & vegetables.To elude confusion, I am going to give three lists to which you can refer. First,I am going to list a diet of which I have been using consistantly & successfully for many years;
Each morning I offer my Iggs a mixture of shredded Collard Greens, Romain Lettuce & Squash,in the evening I bring them fresh Hibiscus flowers that I pick from known untreated bushes.And on occasion,say tri-weekly at best,I offer limited amounts of soaked monkey chow. Monkey chow is typically available at your local pet/feed store. Keep in mind however,that monkey chow can cause many problems internally,and should make up no more than 5 percent of their diet. The reason I choose to offer this item, is that it does increase the Green Iguana growth rate.
Secondly,I am going to list some food items that I have found to be consistantly agreed upon by many herpetoculturists as safe and healthy.I will break this list down into a daily regimen in which to choose from;
One or more of the following;
Collard Greens,Mustard Greens,Romaine Lettuce,Swiss Chard,Dandelion Greens.One of the following;
Mixed frozen vegetables(thawed),cooked sweet potatoes,squash(summer, yellow)Bell Peppers.One of the following;
Papaya,Mango,RasberriesChoose from the catagories above as indicated daily to create a balanced diet.
The third list I have chosen to include are some of the items in which you need avoid;
Iceberg Lettuce,Cabbage,Broccoli,Cauliflower,Kale,Brussel Sprouts, Spiach,Bananas,Dog,and/or Cat food.All food,no matter which diet you choose,should be cut into bite size pieces.Green Iguanas do not chew their food,so it is required you break it down into digestable pieces for them.Also keep in mind,that bite size varies dependent on the size of the animal.You may also want to look into some of the commercial Iguana food available at your local pet store,I have used these foods successfully with some of the younger Iguanas I've had,but weaned them off it when they needed more of it than I could financially handle.Also check into Vitamin supplements,there are many benefits to this,even with a proper diet.
Water needs are typically met through the diet of the Green Iguana, however,you may want to add a bowl of fresh water now and then or at all times to be sure your Iguana is always well hydrated,if and when you do offer your Igg water,be sure it is always clean, dirty water promotes disease.
Ok,so you think you can handle the previously discussed care requirements. Well let me start this portion by saying that all the care in the world, won't keep your pet healthy without meeting their heating & lighting requirements.
The Green Iguana is a specialized animal that has adapted it's body to utilize the ever present warmth & beneficial rays of the sun in it's natural range.The process to which affect Green Iguanas most through sunlight,is the synthesis of vitamin D3,which is an essential vitamin for the calcification of bones.Without vitamin D3, your Iguana will not be able to process the calcium in it's system.
Many light companies have succumb to the needs of the herpetological field & now offer lights with intensified UV rays,if natural sunlight is not an option for your Iguana,by all means invest your money in one of these,a note of advise however,these new lights need to be within twelve inches of the intended animal for the radiation to have any true effect.
A "hot spot" should also be present in an indoor enclosure. This is easily accomplished by purchasing a dome light holder with a clamp,and a 75-100 watt bulb.When housing Iguanas indoors,I have always used more than one of these in my enclosures,so the Iguana has options as to where he/she can choose to bask.
ALWAYS KEEP BULBS OUT OF REACH OF YOUR IGUANA!!!!!Heat rocks which are available at most reptile/pet stores are not designed for the Green Iguana,no matter how many they might show on the box cover.There are two factors that highly support this statement. One is that heat rocks are designed for an animal that gets it's warmth from the heating of rocks in the wild,the Green Iguana is not such an animal.The second reason is that Iguanas,as smart as they do appear, will not remove themselves from the rock, even if the rock is burning their underside.I have seen too many cases in which burns could have been prevented through the lack of these inappropriate Iguana rocks. Green Iguanas are best kept at an ambient (overall) temperature of 75-85 degrees,with a hot spot reaching 86-100 degrees. The layout of the branches within the enclosure,should support the idea of your Iguana choosing his/her own temperature. I also highly recommend leaving out the guesswork,and purchasing a digital thermometer,available at your local Radio Shack,or other such dealer,for about $20.
Green Iguanas can be,with some effort,as tame as birds,cats,and other such domesticated pets.I have had Iguanas that would come clear across a room full of people for a snack from my hand,others that were litter trained,and one that actually wagged it's tail upon seeing me each day. The more time you spend handling your Iguana,the more personable and calm he/she will be. Most Iguanas become more placid around the person who spends the most time with them,so if you want a family pet,than pass the attention around.
One of the most frequently asked questions about Green Iguanas,is the likelyhood of Salmonella infections. Salmonella is a disease that effects mostly young children (9 and under), elderly people,and those infected with HIV.It is a bacteria that is not any more common to Iguanas than it is the dishrag left on your sink counter each night,or that spot in the tub you've been meaning to clean. Most Iguanas that are infected with this bacteria,have been imported into the country in crates by the thousands,needless to say,it is not of the most hygenic situations. And thus, the bacteria is spread.As is the rumor,for should the facts be known,there is no more risk of Salmonella in Green Iguanas than any other reptile.However,should you want to take your Iguana to the vet, they can confirm or dispell your Iguanas Salmonella status. My solution to all the hype is simple & effective, and I am a father of two(both under 9); Each time after handling your Iguana......................Wash your hands!!They have anti-bacterial everything out there, so get some of it & use it,every time.One more note on the prevention of Salmonella,keep your Iguana cage clean,and keep your Igg away from areas you consider hygenically vulnerable,ie:Bathtubs,sinks,food preperation & eating areas.
I would like to conclude this sheet on the emphasis of knowledge. Do not use this care sheet as your only source of knowledge,there are many good books out there,as well as published papers and websites. This care sheet is intended to give you a start,and to use as reference, NOT the be all,end all of maintaining your animal. Utilize the many years of research others have made accessible to you.A big part of being an owner of a Green Iguana, or any other animal, is responsibility. Do your part,and offer the best care available to your dependant.