We landed at 10 a.m. Friday morning, Jan. 29. Shannon Airport is much smaller than we thought. We picked up our rental car at the airport. They were very helpful and positive people at the car rental. The day was cloudy and about 45 degrees. We left Shannon and headed southwest to Tralee and the Dingle Peninsula. Traveled through the cities of Limerick and Tralee. We stayed at the Lord of Desmond Hotel just outside the city limits of Tralee. Tralee is a university town that is better off economically than Limerick, but not very modern.

Day 2 - Saturday, Jan. 30

We had trouble adjusting to driving on the left side of the road. Hitting 23 curbs and almost 2 pedestrians was enough in one day (138 miles). The roundabouts (circles which have exits to travel different roads) were pure torture. Our son took over the driving in Tralee. He said the narrow roads were like driving in an arcade game. We had unlimited mileage on the car and we saw most of the country, even Northern Ireland (about 2000 miles).

**RING OF KERRY**

The Ring of Kerry is considered one of Ireland's most beautiful places for scenery. It is composed of three peninsulas in the southwest. We traveled around one of these called the Dingle Peninsula. There is mist in the hills that touch the clouds above and the view is spectacular. The entire trip around the peninsula takes about 3 hours.

** CRUCIFIXION SCENE CARVED INTO MOUNTAIN**

After Dingle, we went north and stopped at Ballybunion, a world famous golf course. We continued north across the river Shannon by ferry to Kilmer and proceeded north to Ennis. Ennis is a clean city with well kept old homes and new homes. We were originally going to stay in Ennis at the Cill Coin House, but we decided to continue to Galway City that night.

Day 2 - continued

In Galway City we tried phoning the Galway Cottages (our timeshare), but no one was there, so we stayed in the Twelve Pins Hotel and ate at Donnelly's Restaurant nearby. We met a lot of the locals at Donnelly's and had a great meal. Next morning we had our first and last traditional Irish breakfast. Bacon, ham, sausage, black and white pudding, tomatoes, and eggs were too much for us. We didn't eat until the next morning.

Day 3 - Sunday, Jan. 31

Went to the Galway Cottages in Barna near Spiddal, Connemara. RCI, the timeshare exchange company, wrote that at the Galway Cottages we would have a spectacular view of Galway Bay. Too bad the view came with no heat. We knew we were responsible to pay for the heat, but we didn't know how expensive that would be. Even with our efforts to conserve electricity, we were charged 9 punts (the Irish pound) a day for heat.

Day 4 - Monday, Feb. 1

**GALWAY CITY**

Spent the day in Galway City shopping and sightseeing. Large beautiful city, population about 70,000, university and cathedral within city. New construction everywhere. The Galway cathedral had a novena going on all day. Could spend the whole day and not see all of the small shops in town. Purchased some gifts in Claddagh, a suburb of Galway City and an old fishing village famous for the Claddagh Ring

Headed for Connemara National Park along the Atlantic Ocean. Much barren land with rocks, mountains, and streams. The Twelve Pins (mountain peaks in the Connemara mountain range) are about 2 hours from our timeshare in Barna and are from 2000 to almost 3,000 feet (highest is 2,993 ft.). This ended our day as we headed back to Barna at night.

Day 5 - Tuesday, Feb. 2

Decided to see the south side of Galway Bay and went down to Dunguaire Castle near a fishing village. The castle has medieval shows during the season but was closed for the winter. We walked around the castle that our son claimed was "his" castle and took pictures. Had lunch in a restaurant and gift shop, but did not buy anything.

**DUNGUAIRE CASTLE**

Phoning in Ireland is a lost cause. We had to have someone call for us. We finally connected with my husband's cousin and her family on Wednesday, Feb. 3.

Day 6 - Wednesday, Feb. 3

Headed for Ballina in northwest Ireland and the seashore resort of Enniscrone. The water was very rough and the area was terribly windy and chilly. We managed not to fall in the water off the stone walkway. From there we went to Belleck Castle. This is a medium size castle with acres of land turned into a park near Ballina.

That night our relatives treated us to dinner at a local restaurant. The food was great but again too filling. We returned to their house and talked around the fire in their recreation room that night.

Ballina is smaller than Galway City, but very lively and full of great shops. Dunnes Stores is a very popular department chain in all of Ireland. We shopped there and got a good buy on a luggage bag for our son. We also did some shopping in the local stores for gifts. The town is hilly just like in New England. It reminded us of Portland, Maine.

Day 7 - Thursday, Feb. 4

Headed to Monaghan via Galway as we had to pick up our luggage. From Galway we traveled east to Longfort and then northeast to Cavan and further north to Smithboro. Stayed the night and had dinner at Gortmore: cousin Josie's farm. They had a fire burning in the livingroom fireplace when we arrived. The spacious stone house sits on 20 acres up a narrow road off Smithboro's main street. There is a small stream behind the house. We met their daughter Jane and her 3 daughters.

That night we made arrangements to have lunch with another cousin, Kathleen in EnnisKillen at the KillyHevlin Hotel right on lower Lough Erne Lake in Northern Ireland the next day.

Day 8 - Friday, Feb. 5

Toured the town of Smithboro with Josie. She took us to the Catholic Church and showed us the gate that my husband's grandfather made for the entrance. Took a picture of the gates and the chalice holder inside the church that he also made.

**EXTERIOR OF CATHOLIC CHURCH IN SMITHBORO**

**INTERIOR OF CATHOLIC CHURCH IN SMITHBORO**

We visited the family grave. A Celtic cross marker stands in the middle of a plot bordered with cement.

The schoolhouse is across the street but is no longer used as a new school was built down the block. Our son was amazed that he could walk in the same streets and buildings where his great-grandparents also walked. We met Josie's brother Packy who lives in the house that my husband's grandfather purchased sometime after his wife died in 1926. They had a blacksmith shop on the property but it was torn down. The original house where his grandfather was born no longer exists.

Met Kathleen at KillyHevlin Hotel for lunch. As we drove to EnnisKillen, a stretch of road would be in the Republic, then Northern Ireland, and back to the Republic. Since the peace accord was in effect, we were not stopped at the checkpoints. The roads in No. Ireland are wider, better paved, and have larger signs than in Ireland. Furthermore, the highways mostly go around the towns rather than through them as in Ireland. It was much easier travel. Kathleen and her family are doing quite well. We had a great time reminiscing and Kathleen offered to pay our airfare to Belfast next time we visit.

Day 9 & 10 - Saturday and Sunday, Feb. 6 & 7

Our son had a wonderful time at the dance halls in Ballina. He was impressed that the Irish know a lot about American music and culture. Ballina has a very active nightlife that he was sorry to leave. We went to an authentic Irish pub with our cousin.

**DOWNPATRICK HEAD KILLALA BAY, COUNTY MAYO IRELAND**

**BLOW HOLE: KILLALA BAY, COUNTY MAYO, IRELAND**

Our cousin took us to the place in Killala where it is believed the first person stepped on Irish soil. The area has huge cliffs and caverns made by the ocean pounding the shore. We scaled a fence to get to the "blow holes," deep caverns in the mountain. The ocean was a beautiful bluegreen. The town of Killala has restored houses with spectacular views of the bay. A pyramid building is constructed on the spot where the ruins of the dwellings of the first inhabitants were discovered.

**EIRE**