Remember the first time you saw a magic card? Remember what is was that got you hooked? You're first deck probably consisted of the biggest creatures you could find and assorted lands. But when you played your friends you would watch their puny 2/2s and 3/3s take you down in mass numbers. Then you realized that magic is a little more complicated than you thought. That is why I'm going to teach you (or at least try)the basics of deck building.
There are three parts to a deck: timing and efficiency, resources, strategy, and the sideboard. The timing of a deck refers to the deck's speed. Deck resources are its lands, creatures, enchantments, artifacts, etc. The strategy of a deck is the most important aspect. Every deck has a basic strategy at which it operates best. The sideboard can mean the difference between winning or losing, so make your sideboard carefully.
Deck speed is a very important factor to consider when making a deck. When checking how fast you want your deck to be, check the average casting cost of the creatures in your deck. Overall, the most efficient deck is the fasted deck. For example, in 3 turns if you can bring out 6 1/1 creatures, then you are more efficient than a deck that takes 3 turns to cast a 3/3 creature. Of course 1/1 creatures die faster than a 3/3 creatures; and if the entire deck is made of 3/3 creatures, then the 1/1 deck has no chance. Efficiency has many aspects to it. Effiency is measured in terms of speed and in terms of ability. Eficiency in terms of ability states that if two cards do the same thing, then the one with the lowest casting cost or triggered effect is more efficient. For example: Hand of Death(B2) says- Destroy target non-black creature, Dark Banishing(B2) says- Destroy target non-black creature. That creature may not be regenerated this turn. Of course the Dark Banishing is more efficient. In the case of a Dark Banishing and a Terror- Bury target non-black non-artifact creature, you must decide which one would be more efficient in your deck. The Terror can target less, but has a very low casting. cost. Which cards to use is included within the decks resources.
The resources of a deck are its lands, creatures, enchantments, artifacts, or any other part of the deck that is played. Resources are an important part to a deck because depending on the ammount of resources within a deck, the entire deck will be played differently. One thing to keep in mind is that all resources are interrelated. Lands are some of the most important resources. Anywhere from 33% to 40% is the recomended ammount of lands. How much you should use all depends on the types of creature resources you have. Wurms need large ammounts of land whereas a Sliegh deck would only need minimal ammounts. If you configure your land ratios wrong, then you'll have a mana screw, which will mess up your game. Creature recources are just as important as mana. If you don't have enough, then you will lack a creature defense and offense. Creature abilities also artribute to other resources such as the Ley Druid(G2)- Tap: Untap a land you control. Also the the Rootwater Hunter(U2)- Tap: Deal 1 damage to target creture. Both these abilities can be EXTREMELY helpful if used correctly. When making a deck make sure your creautes don't conflict with each other or have no special purpose to the deck. All creatures in a deck are important. Enchantments, artifacts, instants, etc. all add to the decks smoothness. Resources all combine to make a deck run smoothly. Just like the parts of a car all help each other. Enchantments are especially important because of they are permanent. For example: Dread of Night(W3)- Black creatures cannot atack or block. This helps you when playing against a black deck to not have to worry about your opponent's creatures. Most resources combine to make combos which brings us to deck strategy.
The strategy of a deck is what a deck is all about. For example, a burn deck's strategy could be to kill the opponent's creatures and burn the opponent whenever possible. A poison deck's strategy could be to deal the opponent ten poison counters as quickfor your deck, think about the other aspects of your deck. If a wurm deck's strategy ly as possible. These are all strategies. When designing a strategy was to finish off the opponent as quickly as possible, then it would not be very realistic since wurms just aren't fast creatures. So keep in mind that the strategy you have in mind is feasible.
The sideboard of a deck can mean the difference between winning or losing. There are three ways to sideboard. The first way is to sideboard color specific. If you were playing against a white deck then you would want to sideboard in a Gloom(B2, White spells cost an additional 3 to play. White enchantments with an activation cost, cost an additional 3 to play.). The second way to sideboard is to sideboard cards that just hurt the opponent but aren't nescessarily color specific. If you were to play a blue permission deck or any other deck with heavy instants or interrupts, then you would play a City of Solitude(G2, Each player may only play spells or abilities during his or her turn.). The last type of sideboarding strategy and the most difficult makes use of the element of surprise. While your opponent doesn't expect any major changes, you've actually changed the entire strategy of your deck. Although this strategy is very difficult, it is rather effective. A person playing against a creature heavy blue deck with many fliers would probably sideboard many anti-flier cards like Hurricane. But unbeknownst to him the blue deck sideboarded out 15 fliers for 15 counterspells.
