FDL Tips
Have your own sent it to:
email fdl60@yahoo.com
Have a tip? State if you want to be anonymous or credited.
Feedback and corrections welcomed.
Looking for something? Go to Edit and find in page
to search this text or try the Search Page
Power Supplies
If you want more reliable Power supplies: X5-24 62-001 NG
P.S x168
Replace all the open air pots, the rivets on the pins go bad - open.
These are all one turn pots. just buy new one turn pots of the same value. Note the position of the pot you are removing, (like 3 o'clock) put the new pot at that position (3 o'clock) and install. The position will be close enough. The Frequency pot can be replaced with a fixed 13k resistor if you want, it never changes PS to PS.
Don't have time to replace all the pot? With the pot in still in the card, measure the resistance across the pot (not the wiper). If the resistance is more that the value of the pot, it is bad replace it! [ say you are checking a 500 ohm pot it measures 2k, it is bad)
The one turn pots are 500 , 5k , 25K , two 1k (the 200 pot is multi turn and does not fail)
Use the +5v adjust and Voltage adjust pots to set PS to 8.5 or 15.5, depending on FDL60 slot.
Bad - Open Pots
The same type of open air pots go bad in the Video and Genlock cards.
Also in the spool Amp Servo. Test and Replace in the same way.
No video, burst, sync, low video, pulses in wrong place check these pots.
Hot Plug Cards?
Many FDL60 cards can be removed and plugged in hot.
Cards that cannot are the CPU bus cards:
From left to right: Film timer, Pan IF, CPU, Proc IF, Capstan Ctl,
Sprocket pulse, Clk Gen.
The Video Genlock Card should not be pulled or plugged while the unit
is in stand by mode.
CCD 133 pre amps cables and PS can be plugged and unplugged hot. CCD
134 cannot!
No PS should be turn on off hot (if one is off it most likely will
not hurt anything.)
The Data Out card's TTL to ECL chips, 10124, have been known to
go bad rarely in a hot plug.
The Pan 2, ECL to TTL chips 10125 have also been know to
go bad, rarely, in a hot plug.
FDL 60 will go into play but not stop after the one play commands?
The 2V delay pulse out of the Clk Gen card is most likely missing.
This can be do to many things:
Data Out clk gone, Read address clk gone, write control address gen
pulse gone,
CPU problems, Data In card problems and the Clk Gen not working.
Check the video path first, if ok then trace 2V pulse on the Clk Gen
card.
Capstan
Capstan will not run? Or the Servo not locking well?
Capstan lamps is most likely not good.(out or dim)
Do not sub, use a OSRAM 6251 6v 5w
IC Sockets
As a temp fix for cards, pull up the IC half out of the socket, wash
card with lots of alcohol. Then use compressed air to blow the alcohol
off the card. Blow way from your face, wear eye protection. Then push the
IC back in to the socket, use care not to force and bend - brake the IC
leads!!
This should clean enough oxidization off the IC and socket to make
it work for a while.
Don't have the time to do this? Just pull the IC up and push it back in, this should work for a while.
Cleaning the IC lead with a silver cleaner helps too, but they will
just oxidize again and the cleaner thins and weakens the the leads. CG
makes a tin plating chemical that can thicken the leads and stop oxidization.
But this is a lot of messy work, that replacing the socket can avoid.
Replacing all the IC with new IC can cause timing problems on High
Frequency cards.
Have any help for users on this topic send it to us!
email fdl60@yahoo.com
Power Supplies
First check the pots as given above.
If the Pots are not bad, check or just replace the following:
MBR1535 or use a 1N5828, 35v 15 Amp Diode Check both shokey Diodes for shorts.
22R 6W (opens as a fuse to protect against shorts)
BUX81 or BUX83 use an EGC283 newark 83F3170 (it shorts and or opens)
Check output caps 4,700 16V out of circuit (cut one lead to test) Should charge, not be shorted.
Check the BY208 /1000 or BYV96 DIODE or BYV96E sub ECG 558 1500V 1A 250 NS
It is rare but the B250 C1500 bridge may have a short. Any 250V 1.5 amp (or higher) Bridge will do. This outputs 230v thru a voltage double circuit.
24V Lamp PS
24V Lamp PS
The Same type of connectors can go bad on the DC power input to the Digital rack.
Sepmag problems?
Servo Problems in step or slow speeds? CPU locked up?
The +5 volts on the FD234 Film Timer should be +5v -.0/+.1 volts.
Set with pot "+5V" on card.
If this +5v is noisy (more than +/- .3v on a scope) replace the 1,000uf 6v (or higher) and the 3,300uf 16v (or higher) caps on the FD234.
Power Up Test
CPU - Proc IF card LEDs. Power up test
1) CPU Ram bad
2) Eprom check sum bad (bad eprom)
3) PPI port bad (or support IC around it).
PPI ports are on the Proc IF, Capstan ctl and CPU cards.
(Capstan PPI and support ics can go bad with hot plug and power hits)
Cooling
Monitor Cooling
Adding a fan, with grills, to cool the FDL60 monitor will make it last
longer.
AC can be tapped into at the top AC Fan.
Hang the fan on the frame rail behind CCDs.
Cooling
Fuse Holder
Power Input Terminals
24V Lamp
Utility AC Outlet
Spool Servo
Spool Servo Amp dead?
Check all the Transistor out of the circuit. or just replace:
BUV20 - BUX20 newark #06F1763 (both are the same type of transistor)
BD535 or use a ECG152 Newark 16F9731
BD536 or use a ECG 153 Newark 14B3634
2N2905 ( or ECG 129 ? check)
Check ALL the Resistors in the MDA electronics (around the above transistors)! Check while the Transistors are out for testing! Many Resistors will look good but will be open or the wrong value !!!
Check for trace damage after removal and after installing the new parts.
Also check for open traces. The traces to the BUV20 - BUX20 open sometimes. Check that power and outputs are getting to the BUV20 - BUX20.
It is rare but the PW10 bridge may short. Any 200V 40 amp or higher
Bridge will do.
see list above in 24V Lamp PS.
To test with out film: Push stand by, both reels should turn,
change both a b switches.
Push stand by again, both reels should turn the other way.
Do the brake check first.
Power test: Hold both arms up push stand by and then play, both
reels should spin.
By moving the arms up and down the reels should go fast, slow and then
change direction.
Tip to test one at time, use a loop of tape to hold the non testing
arm in the center of range, then move loop to other arm.
Film test: With test Film up, hit stand by. If reels take up, try to
move the reel by hand (the only hand test) the reels should fight with
power, to stay in position, in both direction.
Spool Servo Brakes
Spool brakes dead?
Check all the RS-12 and RS-6 replays in the spool amp.
Contacts will open. Replace with original or sub.
RS-12 is 12v DC relay , RS-6 is a 6V DC relay.
Use a large Iron to remove relays with out damaging the traces. Check for trace damage after removal and after installing the new relay.
Test brakes, push up one tension arm, both brakes should release (reels spin freely). Hold both arms up push stand by, reels should spin. Hit play (have three hands?). drop both arms. Both brakes should be on (reels do not spin freely).
Sprocket Tacho Wheel
Sprocket Tacho wheel pulse drifting? Ripple Pulse or V pulse
1) Add a thermal resistor circuit to limit the drift.
2) Replace the IR diodes, some have used NTE3099 IR diodes, but these needed to filed on the sides alttle to make it fit. Print click here.
Both are not an easy task.
Best is to beach test this. Set tacho in a vise, set a DC motor in vise. Run the tacho with rubber band between the two. Use a bench PS to run the DC motor. You must have good knowledge of electronic to do these mods. Things do not always go as planed. Trim resistors maybe needed to make this work. Check IR voltage ( most likely 1.2 volts at 28 to 36 ma)and the PU output (most likely 30 to 60 mv).
Preamps
Replace both the Q210 IC on the Pre amps. Then adjust the pre amp Video gain and DC offset.
Want your Q201 IC s on you CCD133 Pre amps to last longer and run less noise? Glue (super or epoxy) a small heat sink to the Q201. Take care not to short the pins. Use a small block of copper or aluminum, and or a small store bought heat sink. CCD134 Pre amps have a large heat sink on the output Q201 from the factory. If replacing this Q201 file or grind off the bad Q201 and reuse the heat sink.
Use care not to bend the CCD leads!! Do not force! Line up pre amp before pushing down on CCDs!
Some CCDs mounting plates are not locked down do to registration problems in the past. So check registration after any CCD area work, or after moving the FDL.
Still no video, bad Pre amp, replace IC 1, MMH 0026L.
The Green and Red pre amp should be the same. The Blue has twice the gain (set by fixed resistors) but is still swapable for testing. The adjust the pre amp Video gain and DC offset, if swapped for good.
Vert Smear?
Does the FDL have vert smear off objects? Does the smear change
when you go in rev?
The CCDs may be getting old and may have over heat damage.
You can get more life and a better picture by adding bias lights to
the optical path.
Blue is usually the worse. Add a row of blue LEDs pointing light into
the area between the beam splitter and the CCD. The same can be done for
the Red and Green channels.
Mount the LEDs on a card then on the preamp card shield, not to close
to optical path to avoid shading errors.
Set the CCD bias pot on the Cor amp after
installing.
FDL 90/ Quadra Parts
Card Rails
Install Data Out and Read address cards slowly and carefully.
If you miss the rail, you can break the Crystals on the Cards!
Also the white long thin power contact rails can break on these and
other cards:
Pan 1, Pan 2, Write control and others.
+5V Power Supply Rails
If a white long thin power contact rail breaks, you can replace it
with wire jumpers.
+5V and ground are on every other pin.
Check after replacement, that you have not shorted the +5V to ground.
Also Check that +5 and ground are getting to the TTL ICs (corner pins)
+18.5V Power Supply
Beware! The analog PS in the audio rack may be labeled 24V.
It is a +18.5V PS that feeds the CCDs and dome lamps.
Do not turn it up to 24V!
+5V Power Supplies
Low +5v on the Clk Gen cards and or Capstan card?
Most likely you need to beef up the trace on the back of the Digital
rack.
The +5v for these cards comes from the +5v PS on the left side of the
Digital rack.
This trace runs along the top back of the Digital Rack back plane mother
board.
+5v is on c18, b18, a18 of the edge connector on the clk
gen.
+5V Power Supplies
Low +5v on some other card? Before replacing the 78H05 (+5v 5 amp regulators,
new replacement are LT 1003 ck)
on the back plane (they are soldered in). Try beefing up the traces
on the card.
Run a wire from +5v on the edge connector to the +5v on the front of
the cards.
Do the same for the ground. Ground is on c16 and c17 of the
edge connector.
+5v is on c18 of the edge connector.
The Video back plane regulators are plugged in, not soldered.
Digital Problems?
Digi Dots
Digi Dots
To see if you have a bad (dots in video) FDL60 store card, just pull
one card out hot while playing a film or looking at a test signal. If bad
the problem will just go away.
Not the bad card? Just plug back in hot and try the next store card.
Want to test the three Chroma cards? Install them in the Lum
store position 1, 3 and 6 (that is if your switches are all set correctly).
Grain Reducer - FDGR
To remove the Grain Reducer, FDGR. On the Read Address Gen:
Change all the Two position white jumpers to the other position, less
the PLL jumper J8.
Change the H-Del coarse jumper from position 8 to 6.
On older Data Outs cards:
Move the three jumps on J8 from position 8 to 2.
Newer cards will not have a three jumper J8.
Note some older, non modified Read Address Gen and older Data Outs cards do not support Grain Reducer FDGR ! Also the Write ctl was update to support Grain Reducers, for good stop freezes..
Check the +5V PS, see the FDGR PS update here.
Grain Reducer - FDGR
The test cable that plug in to the front of the Grain Reducers D/A
cards is very useful in trouble shooting. The Grain Reducers D/A
card BNC output goes to monitor that is lock to ext. sync. Move the test
cable to the TP on the front of the other cards. See the manual for the
signal path. You can locate the problem by moving the patch cable around
. For the Motion detector and Low pass cards, play a film with moving objects.
You should see the outline of those objects on the these TP. Put the Grain
Reducers in test mode, you should have video on these TP not the motion
outlines. Return the switch to on when done. The off setting will give
you lots of smear with the Grain Reducers turned on. The Store
cards should be set up the same as the FDL60 Lum store cards with the dip
switches on the cards. See FDL vol 1 for setting.
Check the +5V PS, see the FDGR PS update here.
Test Monitoring
The Store TP on the scope selector shows you the Store A/D, D/A the
Lum/Chr Mux and the Contours card.
What to see just the Lum/Chr Mux card's output? Look at the BNC
cables leaving the Video rack going to the Digital Racks A/D (lum, r-y
& b-y).
What to see the store D/A outputs before the Contour Cor cards?
Again look at the BNC cables (lum, r-y & b-y) going from the D/A
to the Video rack.
Just loop or tee the video up to the B input of the Tek scope. For
the
Lum/Chr Mux cables set the TP selector to the Main Amp for the correct
sync input. For D/A set it to Store.
[The Video before the store is not NTSC.]
Film Deck Control
Film Deck remote control switch bad?
Replace with an off the shelf, two position 4 gang switch and just
do not use the Rem 2 position,
that is not used much any ways.
Film Deck CP not working, (FDL powers up ok and FPN is ok, but the CP
is dark)
Try unplugging it hot (on the digital rack plane panel) and then plug
it in Hot.
If that makes it work, try swapping around the X NG Power supplies.
(one is powering up too fast or too slow). If swapping PS around does not
fix the power up problem, install a CPU reset switch to the Film Deck CP.
Servo Modes
Servo - picture is not good in 24Fr. Forwards (24fr lock mode)?
Try 24Fr. SAS (24fr unlocked mode). Is it good? If yes, it is most
likely a problem with the Div-V or 6 Hz pluses.
Servo - picture good in 24Fr. Forwards, but not good in SAS and rew.?
Most likely a problem with the line store card or it's memory ICs.
Neg. Film Settings
In a Neg. film transfer mode there are too things that remove the orange
mask of the Neg. Film.
First is the Blue / Cyan optical filter that should move into place
when Neg. is turned on.
If not, the switch for B&W neg. may be off on the Control IF card.
Next, there are Gain and Black setting that turn on in the Cor amps.
These Gain and Black settings can be fixed Resistors or pots that were
added later.
Playing a known good Neg. film with whites and Blacks in it, set the
Black CP knob so the highest channel is set to 90 IRE on the Scope at the
TP selection pre amp. Now, the Scope TP selection at Cor amp should have
all three channel to about 100IRE and 0 IRE of signal level.
If a channel is very low or high, these Cor Amp presets may need
to be changes.
R170 for Blacks, R122 for Gain on Cor Amp FD221.
IP film is transferred as Negative film, but the video level is is not inverted on the Main Amp.
Have old Positive Films that are faded?
Transfer it as a IP film.
Use the Neg. matching pots to do the coarse color corrections,
looking at the Main amp scope TP selection. Switch the FD120 B&W
switch to see which setting gives you a better color balance setting.
Have B&W Neg. Film?
Need more out of your Contour Card?
Try turning the Hor Detail Width and Detail Notch pots on the Contour
Card.
The Noise Comp pot on the front panel should be just a little of the
end stop, about 2.
Don't play with the delay line pots!
Contours
Vet. Contours NG?
Most likely the Line Store Card and or it's memory IC are bad, could
be a D/A problem also.
Low Frequency Noise?
Low freq. noise in your video? Or Hum at 30 Fr/sec mode.
Try three Hum blockers (buckers) in line with the RGB cables from the
back of the CCD pre amps going to the Cor Amp in the video Rack.
Power Supplies
Bad PS?
Lamp 24V, 115V, 8.5V or 15.5V or 18.5V
Need it up and running fast?
Use an external power supply to get you up and running fast.
24V Lamp PS runs at 23.3V at 11 amps (250W)
115 V lamp runs at about 112.5V at 5 amps (500W)
8.5 V PS run at 8.5 V at about 12 amps (100W)
15.5 V PS run at 15.5 V at about 7 amps (100W)
Use the FDL 60s Switched AC to power the ext. PS. (Lamp PS optional)
Don't have a 24V 250W PS?
Use the bad Lamp PS to power the 24V lamp and the spare lamp.
Wire the two lamps in series and put them across the un regulated 48
DC found in the 24V Lamp PS.
Don't have a 115V 500W PS?
Make one, Find a 400V 10 amp bridge rectifier (put it on a heat sink)
added a 500 uf 250 uf cap to cut down the hum.
Put in an inline fuse and plug into the wall.
Power hits may be seen in the video, a UPS can stop these.
Get fancy with the above PSs, use a relay to turn it on and off or better yet a solid state relay.
Be careful! Be safe!
No Chroma? No video?
Bad Q109 on your Lum/Chr Mux?
No Chroma? No video?
Q109 pn F3-114805-109
Sub newer KM 630 p.n. F0-126612-700
FPN line Problems?
After checking the check list
and update sheets here,
and resetting the IC in their sockets as stated here in tips
at top.
Try a 74F04 in the place of the 74S04 clk driver IC.
Also Check the 74S161 and 74LS161 IC to what is listed in the book.
On very old FPN control cards FD239 0130582500.0 (FDL60A) there is a Clk fan out mod. The Hi Freq. clk was feed out of one TTL IC. The mod used a spare TTL IC (IC 3 pin 13, 12) on the card. To divide the load to the card and drive ICs 16, 24 & 31. Pin 2. IC 3 pin 13 is feed from IC 3 pin 4.
Jumper lugs 3, 4 on the FD239 card, when short will put he card into continues FPN mode for testing.
.
Preamps
No CCD 133 video in all channels?
Check the power, clk and hor pulse going to the preamps.
The CCD pre amp cables have small square windows on the sides (if facing
out, swap the three cables to get the tp windows pointing out for
measuring, all three plugs are the same.)
Voltages out of the ccd PS card are +5V, -12V +15v and +18.5v. HF clk
and Hor pulse.
Missing -12V you may need a new Q229 ICs. (check book)
F3-114805-229
Missing +15v you may need a new Q228 ICs. (check book)F3-114805-228
Still no voltage? Put a one ohm resistor across R28 and one across
R23 on the FD 104 card.
TCL locking problems?
Check the 240 HZ IR pulse on the front of the Proc IF card.
The 555 timer IC makes the IR generator on the Proc IF cards.
Set with resistor on stand off lug by the 555 IC.
Check and set with good frequency counter.
No video?
Turn on the FDL 60's Color Bar Gen.
If bad, only the Encoder and Genlock card are used to make CB.
Check for bad pots and bad sync (Z134) IC.
Check the FDL's CB output, not the color correctors CB, Dav Bars.
No FDL CB? The Ua723 IC on the encoder maybe bad or the diode on the
CB switch in the CP maybe bad.
Blacks low and crushed?
Main Amp Blacks are OK, but the store out blacks are crushed?
The A/D clamp pulse made on the FPN control card maybe missing.
Write Control Swapping
To make a old FD241 Write control (no WS switch) work in a newer FDL60:
Jumper pin b12 to b13.
Jumper b11 to ground.
Jumpers can be left in place to work in both old and newer FDL60s.
Sprocket pulse card swapping
To make a new Sprocket pulse card, FD267, work in an
old FDL60 (one with out the Super 8 tacho pick up):
Short pin 3 to pin 5 on the Sprocket tacho wheel DIN connector.
Pin 3 is ground. Pin 5 is the shield.
On new Sprocket tacho wheel DIN connectors 3 is the S8 pulse.
This is mostly for testing, Locked capstan servo modes may have break
up, test in SAS mode.
Reel Hold downs pop off?
Pull back the rubber pad to find two screws. Remove the
two screws
Use a C clip wrench to remove the clip. Remove the three
screws.
Pull down the ring washer, so the two hold down pins
come out.
Clean the shaft, pins and washer with alcohol.
Manually pull the spring to make it longer and strong.
Lightly grease or oil shaft and re assemble.
Use just a little contact cement to hold the rubber pads
on,
if you completely removed them.
You can buy unmount Fairchild CCD133 and CCD134.
Anyone know where and how? PN? price? phone# ?
Loral Fairchild Imaging Sensors
1801 McCarthy Blvd.
Milpitas, CA 95035
1-800-325-6975
Part # is CCD133A and sells for under $200 in single lots as best as
I
recall when I called last year.
These are UNMOUNTED,
and thus would have to be glued on tothe German support ring in the
correct spot!
Info on 2-3 pulldown in the film-to-tape telecine transfers.
http://www.zerocut.com/tech/filmtech.html
Have your own tip sent it to:
email fdl60@yahoo.com
