World of Witchipoo
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"Witchi's Broom"

Welcome professional pet care personnel... The subject of shop hygiene has been coming up lately. The following are some ideas or suggestions on the subject. I will be breaking it into sections as things are added. Please feel free to suggest solutions to problems. I will give your shop credit for your tips.

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1. Cleanliness is next to godliness and OSHA Regulations, it also impacts on the amount your insurance costs. Before several of you jump there is a place on the inspection form for housekeeping....if you haven't been inspected don't worry they WILL get around to you if you keep the policy in force. 2. House pets transmit diseases too! How else can they be so wide spread...pets don't live in the house all the time. Think people! 3. Equipment, housing, tables should be cleaned between animals. There are many products that can be used for this on-going chore but I prefer using chlorine bleach. Make your own decision on which one to use all I ask is that you make it. The dilution factor on the bleach by the way is 1 to 30 unless I have missed something. It is the cheapest and now they have nice smelling alternatives. Dilution factor is 1/2 cup bleach to gallon of water. Use disinfect for cages and tables, etc. Equipment should be disinfected between animals....blades, clipper housing, scissors, nail trimmers, forceps and combs and brushes. You can buy sprays for blades but I like to do my forceps and combs in Barbicide. Shop toweling should have bleach added at 1-30 ratio for disinfecting also. Hey, don't forget the smocks. "Barbicide" is relatively cheap and easy to acquire from your local beauty and barber supply. It is a disinfectant and germicide and prohibits rust. Can be used to clean cages too! Other than bleach we use "Quinticare" by Shoreline it is a complete solution because it is a detergent, odor neutralizer, viricide, bactericide and fungicide. It is pricey but when you figure it is all in one bottle and you don't have to add to it works out about the same as other things on the market. As with any product your use please, please read and follow the directions. Note: Toothpaste cup holder with attractive plastic cup makes great liquid holder for disinfecting forceps. We change fluid and clean cup every other day and leave forceps soaking. We brush them clean before replacing in liquid. The slots are good for hanging some types nail trimmers and toothbrushes. What are old toothbrushes good for: 1. at the table -cleaning clipper blades scrubbing ridges in the tops of grooming tables 2. at the tub - cleaning those gunky eye areas scrubbing inbetween pads on really dirty feet So remember to recycle those worn toothbrushes it makes cleaning lots of things a whole lot easier. Long narrow plastic boxes with tight covers make good storage areas for combs and scissors after cleaning. Cover at night because humidity is the reason things rust...the levels of humidity in the shop take all night to dissipate. All flooring should be vacuumed and mopped at end of each day and bucket with disinfectant solution ready to clean up any accidents during the day. Note: change often on those days you end up with a lot urine or feces clean-up. Plastic bottles with disinfecting solution can be used to spray caging between dogs and wiped dry during the day if you can't abide the bucket idea. A plastic thin bristled broom and dust pan used after each grooming places hair in the proper receptacle not being tracked all around. Once you get used to doing it time in not a big factor. Shop always appears neat and clean... I keep a solution of 1 part alcohol to 3 parts water in a spray bottle [you can add smell good if you like] and spray cans. This will slow down any fleas you might have encountered. I also keep bottle of natural citrus type dip solution for those really hairy flea and ticks days for the hair cans. Dilute according to the directions. I generally keep cheap flea powder on hand and sprinkle each garbage can between dogs and after sweeping. The numbing effect of the alcohol allows fleas to die from this dusting. For those of you with ClipperVac type units..a daily dose of inexpensive flea powder sucked down the tube will help kill any "varmits" the unit vacuums up! Caution if you are allergic to dust particles. I have been called to task about thus but the units are generally far enough away that any dust particles will not be harmful. Tubs should be scrubbed at the end of the day...soap and shampoo do cause build up [sorry] folks. And they do not disinfect. The old dips we used to use did. Choose what market brand you like but remember the MSDS Sheet...800 number appears on label. Call they will send. Note: If you have older tub run about 4 inches of hot water and add a cup of bleach. Allow to sit overnight it will remove rust stains and brighten the finish. If you have combs or nail trimmers with rust it will also help cut that off. A little steel wool finishes the job. Apply light coating of oil and buff off. Works on old blade sets too. Tub tie down can be placed in the solution to remove rust or build up. I have standing grate to keep animals off the bottom of tub and leaving it in tub also helps keep build up from occurring. We generally do the bathtub soak thingy once a month. Change mop or bucket with water and disinfecting solution before final clean up of the day..no matter how clean. The solution will have lost its effectiveness and will not do a proper job. Someone once asked what was a professional...well here is another of those tips...a professional will take the time to do the right thing. Keeping your shop clean and odor free is part of the job description.

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Updated 1.17.07

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