• Which cars came with the speed limiter and 115 MPH speedometer?
• Is there a speed limiter on the LS1 cars?
• What's "performance mode" button for on some of the Pontiacs?
• Why does my emergency brake always seem to pull up to a different level?
• Why do objects seem to be distorted through the front windshield?
• What is the Retained Accessory Power feature?
• What type of impact will cause the air bags to deploy?
• What's the purpose of the steering wheel recall?
• Why has my cruise control suddenly stopped working?
• Why does my "ABS In-Op" light come on intermittently?
• Why does my "Low Trac" light come on intermittently?
• Why is my Pontiac cassette radio displaying a weird error code?
• What happens if forget the code to my stereo's anti-theft feature?
• Why is my CD ejected from the radio when I start up my car?
• Is there a CD changer which works with the steering wheel controls?
• Can I upgrade my stock Bose stereo system?
• Can a pre-96 CD holder piece be retrofitted in to the later Camaros?
• Can I run wires from the engine to the interior without drilling a hole?
• Where can I drill a hole to get wires from the engine into the interior?
• Why doesn't my headrest stay adjusted?
• Why doesn't my air conditioning feel as cold as it should?
• Why is water leaking into my car from around the door/window?
• Why is water leaking into my hatch area?
• What's that squeaking noise coming from the dashboard?
• What's that rattling/squeaking noise coming from the hatch area?
• What's that buzzing noise coming from the hatch area?

Q: Which cars came with the speed limiter and 115 MPH speedometer?

A: All cars that came with stock touring tires (Good Year Eagle GA 235/55R16) were speed limited to 108 MPH. In addition, they got a 115 MPH speedometer. Cars opting for the QLC package (Good Year Eagle 245/50ZR16 GS-C tires) or the QFZ package (Good Year Eagle 245/50ZR16 RS-A tires, available in 1995 and after), automatically got the 155 MPH speedometer and did NOT have a speed limiter. This is because GS-Cs and RS-As are Z-rated for speeds over 165 MPH. Any car leaving the factory with a Z-rated tires, should also have the 155 MPH speedometer and no speed limiter.

Q: Is there a speed limiter on the LS1 cars?

A: For the cars that do not have the GS-C or RS-A tires, then they have a 123 MPH speed limiter. For the people who ordered the performance cars their speed limiters were set to 162 MPH and given the 155 MPH speedometer. There is no known way to bypass the 162 MPH speed limiter.

Q: What's "performance mode" button for on some of the Pontiacs?

A: This button was added to 94 Formulas and Trans Ams with automatic transmissions. In "normal mode", the transmission gives much smoother shifts and the shift points were done at a lower RPM/MPH. In "performance mode", shift points were raised to higher RPM/MPH and shift were crisp and quick. At wide open throttle (WOT), 1-2 and 2-3 shifts chrips the tires right from under you. Plus little throttle effort was required to force a downshift to get power right up in the 3-4K RPM range. Z28s do not offer this; however, they are always in "performance mode".

Q: Why does my emergency brake always seem to pull up to a different level?

A: This seems to be normal, although you may want to check the emergency brake cable under the car, on the driver's side in the rear, where it splits into two cables. There's a bracket molded into the floorpan that holds the two cables going to each rear wheel. Check to see if the cables are properly guided through the bracket holes rather than outside of them. If they are not properly guided through, then release the emergency brake, and pull on each cable until they slide back into the holes in the bracket.

Q: Why do objects seem to be distorted through the front windshield?

A: This seems to be a problem due to the rake of the windshield and its general form. The distortion isn't noticeable on all cars, but it is turning out to be more common than previously thought. Mostly taller and shorter drivers will notice the distortion because the windshield seems to be distorted at the top and at the bottom. You can have it replaced, but there's a good chance the next one will be distorted as well.

Q: What is the Retained Accessory Power feature?

A: This option leaves accessory power 'on' after you turn off the car and remove the key. For 10 minutes you will have power to operate the stereo, power door locks, and power windows. After 10 minutes (or when you open a door) the power shuts off automatically. This is part of the Power Door Lock Option (AU3) which comes with Preferred Equipment Group 2 (FZA2) on the Z28 and Option Packages B (1SB) and C (1SC) on the Formula.

Q: What type of impact will cause the air bags to deploy?

A: A crash at 14 MPH or greater where the point of impact is within 30 degrees of the front of the car.

Q: What's the purpose of the steering wheel recall?

A: This is recall campaign 96-C-27. GM has determined that certain 1995 - 1996 Firebird (as well as 1994 - 1996 Grand Prix and 1995 Trans Sport) vehicles may have been assembled with steering wheel redundant radio control wires pinched between the steering wheel inner foam and the air bag inflator module backing plate. The insulation on the wires may wear away over time, allowing for a short to ground and possibly resulting in the radio controls becoming inoperative and a noise being emitted from the steering column. There is also a remote possibility that the air bag could inadvertently deploy.

Q: Why has my cruise control suddenly stopped working?

A: Check the third brake light. It seems some cars with a blown brake bulb will disable the cruise control system. If this is not the problem, then check with your dealer as there is a Technical Service Bulletin (#569002A) for this which calls for replacement of the cruise control module with an updated one. Apparently, the stepper motor is too sensitive to input from the brake pedal switch causing it not to work at all.

Q: Why does my "ABS In-Op" light come on intermittently?

A: It's possibly a kink in one of the ABS hoses. Locate the hose that goes from the brake vacuum reserve cylinder (the big black "bowl" just above where the steering linkage comes out of the firewall) to the intake manifold. The hose has aluminized heat tape on it where it crosses the head on it's way to the intake manifold. If the hose is kinked, unkink it to restore proper suction to the reserve cylinder. Also inspect for a loose fitting on both ends of the hose. Sometimes this hose has a tendency to kink up in the middle when the the cylinder fitting rotates around towards the engine too much, resulting low vacuum which lights ABS INOP indicator. If the fitting has rotated, push it back towards the fender. If this doesn't fix it, get to the dealer as you may have an electronic or hydraulic ABS problem.

Also, if you just swapped gears, it could be the ABS reluctor gear. Shorter gears (i.e. 3.23) have a wider reluctor than taller gears (i.e. 2.73). If you don't swap in the correct reluctor, then it won't line up with the ABS sensor and the light will come on.

Q: Why does my "Low Trac" light come on intermittently?

A: This light usually comes on as a result of abrupt changes in speed or road conditions. This could be from slamming the brakes or simple changes in road surface where the speed sensors detect some slip or moderation in the speed at one or both of the rear wheels. It's only a problem if the light stays on or comes on very frequently.

Q: Why is my Pontiac cassette radio displaying a weird error code?

A: The radio will detect a number of conditions based on the tape being used, and if there's a problem, one of the following is displayed: "CLN" for clean the heads, "E10" for the cassette being too tight, "E11" for the cassette being broken, and "E13" for communication problems with the unit. Either try cleaning the unit with a cassette cleaner (available at most record and CD stores) or try a different cassette. Also, pressing the "EJECT" button for 5 seconds will clear the "CLN" message. Otherwise have the dealer check it out as there is a Technical Service Bulletin (#649004) which explains all the codes and necessary corrective actions.

Q: What happens if forget the code to my stereo's anti-theft feature?

A: In a word: DON'T! Write it down. Then again, if you're reading this, it's probably too late (i.e. you didn't write it down) and now the stereo is locked. It's probably locked because you either disconnected the battery or removed the stereo. Well you have 8 tries to put in the right code. After the 8 incorrect time, the stereo will display iNOp and you won't be given any more chances. On cars with a "Mute" button on the steering wheel controls, just press it and that will get rid of the iNOp for another 3 tries. If you don't have the mute button to reset it, turn the car (or at least the accessories) on for an hour and the iNOp will go away giving you 3 more tires. Still no luck? Go for another hour and give it another 3 tries. After that and you still don't get it, you're going to have to go to a dealer where they have a factory code to unlock it.

Q: Why is my CD ejected from the radio when I start up my car?

A: This is believed to be related to humidity. No other details are available, but Delco is currently not going to cover any such problems under warranty. Others have said it's related to a low voltage condition at start up where the CD gets ejected to ensure it doesn't get stuck, but there's no proof of this either. However, try turning your key to the "run" (gauges light up), but don't start the car. You should hear the fuel pump priming from the rear of car. After 5 second,

then turn the key all the way to start the car. If the CD doesn't pop out, you most likely have low voltage at start- up, and by waiting a few of seconds, you give the voltage time to build up.

Q: Is there a CD changer which works with the steering wheel controls?

A: If you have a '95 (or later) Firebird 10 speaker system, then your car is prewired for the Delco 12-disc CD changer and your current radio and steering wheel controls will all work with it. (This is also true of some other non-Camaro '95 GM cars.) The changer's part number is 12343958. If you have a convertible, you will need a short jumper wiring harness. For coupes, the Delco changer fits perfectly on the shelf in the left rear corner. It's a bit tight, but not terribly difficult to install.

The '94 Pontiac radios were intended to control a CD changer, but they didn't get it worked out in time. If you can find a '95 Pontiac 10 speaker radio to install in your '94, you can use it along with wiring harness part #12344015. The '94 steering wheel controls will work fine with the '95 radio.

Speedometer Service in Atlanta sells the 12 disc changer for $409 and the #12344015 harness for $37. Call Hamp at (800) 241-2385 or (404) 998-1666. You can also ask him if he has a '95 radio for your '94 Firebird if you want to go that route.

Q: Can I upgrade my stock Bose stereo system?

A: There are lots of possibilities. If you just want to replace the head unit, AudioLink (800-327-5905) sells wiring harness adapters for the Bose systems in the new GM vehicles. Pioneer and Clarion make head units that will fit in the stock location.

Q: Can a pre-96 CD holder piece be retrofitted in to the later Camaros?

A: Yes. The 1994-1995 one will fits in the console opening right under the radio. It has slots to hold 8 CDs standing up. The part number is 10247556 and it costs about $4. The holder has Velcro on the bottom, but you need to put an opposing piece on the bottom of the console opening to secure it properly.

Q: Can I run wires from the engine to the interior without drilling a hole?

A: Yes. Remove the ECM (computer) unit (the box with the metal fins) on the passenger side rear of the engine compartment, and swing it out of the way. Directly behind it, on the firewall, is a grommet with a 1.5 inch hole in it. Punch another hole in the grommet, and put your new wire through it. The wire exits inside the car in the corner of the passenger's feet. Take off the side kick panel inside (which includes the molding on the bottom of the door jam) and you can access it.

Q: Where can I drill a hole to get wires from the engine into the interior?

A: Open the hood and look at the firewall, all the way towards the driver side fender, below the driver's windshield wiper. You will see a large black 2" x 3" wiring harness that passes through the firewall which is secured by a nut along the top edge. You can drill a hole just off the lower left corner of this connector from the inside of the car. Start under the dash by removing the lower rear plastic panel (a couple of screws and a panel popper) that passes between the clutch (if any) and brake pedals.

Locate the large connector and using a razor knife, trim away any of the black plastic covering the area where you will drill. Don't worry about neatness as this will be hidden by the plastic panel you removed earlier. Then use a spring loaded center punch to create a small dent to locate your drill bit. Be sure you punch far enough from the connector to allow the hole saw to clear the connector. Also be sure the hole is big enough to fit the wires or hoses which will pass through. It's best to wear safety glasses while drilling as metal shavings will be flying. Tape a newspaper to the firewall to catch the metal shavings which pass though the hole. Once you get a satisfactory hole, cleanup and replace the plastic panel.

Q: Why doesn't my headrest stay adjusted?

A: This problem seems to be more common on the pre-1996 Pontiacs which came with the 6-way articulating bucket seats. During manufacturing, there was was apparently a step being skipped which didn't allow the headrest to fully lock in position. Check with your dealer for corrective measures. Or for more info, contact Chris Dougherty (2pikes@centuryinter.net).

Q: Why doesn't my air conditioning feel as cold as it should?

A: The heat produced by the engine can sometimes warm up the air especially if you're sitting in traffic on a hot day. If you feel it should be cooler then bring it to the dealer to have them adjust the "mixer" door. That controls how much cold/hot air gets mixed in the flow. The normal air conditioning temperature is between 40 and 50 degrees F.

Q: Why is water leaking into my car from around the door/window?

A: Check with your dealer as there's a Technical Service Bulletin (#631022) which calls for replacement of the weather stripping around the door.

Q: Why is water leaking into my hatch area?

A: First try adjusting the rubber posts at each corner of the hatch by screwing them in in 1/2 turn increments. This will allow the hatch to close tighter thereby forming a better seal at the weather stripping. If this doesn't seem to work, then check with your dealer as there's a Technical Service Bulletin (#531032) which calls for adding a sealer to the weather stripping carrier.

Q: What's that squeaking noise coming from the dashboard?

A: It most likely is the dashboard. As your driving over bumps, press on it and see if the noise stops. If so, your best bet is take it to the dealer to be fixed. If you feel comfortable taking apart the dash yourself, you'll see Dual-Lock (velcro) fasteners/adhesive tape which attach to the dash. The adhesive on the fastener has probably come unstuck. Try pressing it back down or touching it up with some fresh adhesive/glue. Also be sure to check the parking brake release button.

It could be rattling in the handle and the sound will bounce off the dash.

Q: What's that rattling/squeaking noise coming from the hatch area?

A: F-bodies are notorious for their "mysterious" rattles/knocks/squeaks. The 4th generations cars have greatly reduced these rattles, but they are not totally eliminated. Try one of the following:

• Put some white lithium grease on the hatch latch and its shock supports.
• Ensure the spare tire is tightly secured in its place.
• Wrap some electrical tape around the rear seat posts. There usually isn't a perfect fit of the seat latches and the post causing rattling. The tape will reduce any play and deaden any rattle.
• It could also be the hatch. Give the rubber posts at each corner of the hatch about 1/2 turn out and then wrap 2 layers of electrical tape around the hook/latch in the middle of the hatch that the lock assembly clamps onto when you close it. It may also be necessary to adjust the whole lock assembly (up or down).
• Also try the B-pillar where the clothes hook is. There's some velcrose already holding the molding on. Try shoving some foam or double-face tape in there and press it down tight. This should reduce any movements and hopefully eliminate any noise.
• If you are getting a rattling from what seems to be the ceiling, more than likely is the seatbelt retractor on the passenger side. This seems to be a common problem with a lot of the later model 4^th gens. There has only been a handful of people who have fixed this, and they did it by shoving some felt cloth or other types of soft padding in the ceiling panel where the seatbelt retractor makes contact.
• Rattling from the doors - Probably the windows moving around. If you want to take off your door panel, there are little brakets that put tension on the window when it goes up and down, you can try to tighten these a little, or lubricate the runners that the window goes up and down on.
• Rattling from the walls next to the rear seats - Some people have reported that the fit of the plastic panels next to the rear seats is pretty poor. You can try to fix it yourself by putting some padding under it where it appears to be rattling, or try taking to the dealer to see if they can fix it.
• Noises from outside body panels - The fit and finish of these cars is not always as good as it could be, and often times there are body panels that rub together. A real common one is the drivers side front quarter panel rubbing against the frame. Getting in there, removing the bolts, putting some type of silicone lubricant on it and retightening them seems to help here.

In most cases, its not worth the effort required to take care of a squeak, and most dealers are very uncooperative about fixing strange noises from these cars under warranty. If you have a squeak or rattle, the best thing you can do is accept it and try to drown it out with the stereo.

Q: What's that buzzing noise coming from the hatch area?

A: This is probably the fuel pump which is located inside the gas tank. It's a common noise, even among some 3rd gen owners. There's really not much which can be done about it with the exception of replacing the pump and hoping you get a quieter one.