ok...here are some plans that i bought off e-bay that might help....theyre not great, but there ok. I wont take any responsibility for any injury, death or whatever, so dont sue me :)

INSTRUCTIONS TO BUILD CANNON

TOOLS....
1. hacksaw
2. drill
3. file

ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
First make sure all pieces are clean for gluing. Take one of the 3"
couplings and apply PVC cement all around one of the inside ends and insert
the 3" threaded endcap adaptor. Let dry. With the other coupling, glue the
3"x1 1/2" adaptor. Let dry. Cut a section of the 3" PVC long enough to
insert between the coupling assemblies with about 2 inches showing between
the two. Screw endcap into the endcap adaptor. Drill a small hole in the
pipe showing between the couplings. Drill a small hole in the center of the
endcap. The expansion/combustion chamber is complete. Apply PVC cement to
the inside of the 1 1/2" adaptor. Insert the section of 1 1/2" pipe to be
used for your barrel. I recommend at least 40 inches. Take a gas grill
ignitor and tape the two wires together about 10' long. Insert through the
hole in endcap, with the button to the outside. On the other end strip 1/4"
off the ends of both wires and form a gap between the two wires so that when
you push the button a spark jumps between the 2 wires. Pull excess slack out
so that the wires do not touch the sides of the chamber.

THE CANNON IS COMPLETE!

TO FIRE THE CANNON

ALWAYS USE EXTREME CARE!!! YOU ARE SOLELY RESPONSIBLE FOR USE OF YOUR
PROJECT!!! Remove the endcap and place a semi-tight wad of newspaper in the
end of barrel nearest chamber. Pour an amount of paintballs into barrel.
Place another semi tight wad of newspaper into the barrel so paintballs wont
roll out. Squirt a small amount of hairspray or WD-40 into the hole in the
side of chamber. Start with small amounts not to remove the oxygen from
chamber, or it wont fire. DO NOT HOLD IN HANDS WHEN FIRING UNLESS YOU HAVE
TESTED AND FEEL COMFORTABLE WITH THE CONSTRUCTION. Then all you have to do is
press the button and.......BOOM!!!

TO CONVERT TO CO2 SYSTEM -- cut the barrel 2" above the expansion chamber.
Attach a 1 1/2" high quality ball valve. Reattach barrel to other end of
ball valve. THIS IS THE TRIGGER SO MAKE IT FEEL COMFORTABLE. Remove the
end cap and use reducer bushings from 3" to 3/8". Use a 3/8" "T" fitting and
install a pressure gauge on the T. next install a 3/8" cutoff valve or a
tank valve before attaching CO2 tank adapter. TO FIRE -- close trigger valve.
SLOWLY Pressurize the expansion chamber NEVER HIGHER THAN PRESSURE RATING OF
THE PVC YOU USED. START WITH LOW PRESSURES FIRST!!! Get the feel of it and
note pressures before going up, and always SAFETY FIRST!!! YOU USE THIS
INFORMATION AT YOUR OWN RISK.

PAINTBALL SILENCER PLANS

First you will need...
1. approx. 17" of thin wall 3/4" PVC pipe
2. approx. 12" of thin wall 1 1/4" PVC pipe
3. 2- 1 1/4" straight couplings
4. 2- 1 1/4"x 3/4" reducer
5. PVC cement
6. a round file
7. sandpaper
8. a drill and 3/16" drill bit
9. a 3/4" coupling or 1"x 3/4" reducer depending on barrel type of you gun
(you may want to get an extra 1
10. some steel wool or insulation

These instructions are for a fairly large silencer, but you can trim length
to suit your tastes. I have found this large silencer to be the quietest I
have ever seen. First apply PVC cement to the inside diameter to one side of
both 1 1/4" couplings. Tap the 1 1/4" reducers into the glued side of
couplings. Take the round file and sandpaper and ream out the reducers so
that the 3/4" pipe will go ALL THE WAY THROUGH THEM, BUT FIT TIGHT. Take
your time and check size often to make it tight. Glue the 12" 1-1/4" pipe
into ONE of the couplings, leave the other side unglued. That part is now
complete.

We'll refer to that as the "cover". Measure own approx. 2" from end of 3/4"
pipe and 6" from the other end, and start drilling holes all through the
middle of the marks. Take your time and make holes clean. Run sandpaper down
the inside to clear any burrs. Glue the other reducer/coupling assembly to
the 2" side of the barrel, leaving 1" extending out of the reducer. Here is
where you have to determine what size coupling to fit your gun. The 3/4"
straight coupling can be sanded to fit 13/16" barrels, or use a 1"x 3/4"
reducer to attach gun to silencer. You may have to "custom fit" your
silencer to the barrel you have. Just make sure that a paintball can slide
through silencer easily. Wrap the now vented barrel with steel wool and
slide into the cover assembly with end of the barrel through the opening.

The 2 pieces should fit together nicely in the couplings and allow you to
take cover off for cleaning and changing steel wool. Do not pack steel wool
too tight, because you want some air space inside for absorbing sound and
expanding air. Here one is attached to a Talon, A pump gun is fine for use
with a silencer, no need to rapid fire if they don't know where you are
anyway.

Paintball Silencer

With a little care, you shouldn't need too much practice, and if you have
seen the B.O.A Concealer, you have a pretty good idea what you will end up
with. In fact, it is very similar to the finished product I put on M-16s and
CAR-15s about 10 years ago. Just think about your work, and plan ahead! You
will need to get a section of PVC or ABS (preferably ABS, it's already
black), about 6 inches long and 2-1/2 inches or so across. Also, get some
stiff plastic plates a few inches across, you will be using these for the
endplates for the 'can'. You will also want to get a good grade of epoxy.
Last, get some 'open cell' type foam, open weave gauze, or some cheesecloth.
You will busing this for the packing. make sure it will not unravel, and is
easy to clean in the event you break a ball in the bbl. Take your barrel and
put in a lathe, turning a couple thousandths of an inch off to get a smooth
mounting surface. You want to take as little as possible, but you do want a
shiny metal surface. Usually, 1 or 2 thousandths of an inch will do, but it
depends on the surface of your bbl. If you are using stainless, you have a
good start, but think about an anno job when you are done. Stainless does
not hide very well in the bush! Once you are done, it's off to the drill
press. Now would also be a good time to 'crown' your bbl for accuracy (cut
the muzzle end, on the inside, just slightly. In essence, you are rounding
off the inside edge to help prevent damage to the muzzle bore for active
players.) In the space you turned, drill a series of small holes (about
1/8th inch or so), evenly spaced in 3 or 4 rows around the bbl. Also, leave
about 1/2 inch at either end of the area you turned on the lathe. After you
are done drilling, run a barrel hone through to deburr your drill job. Use
the finest grade of hone you have available, for a good finish. Don't forget
to lubricate the hone you are using, and keep it wet all the time (air tool
oil work good for this.) Do NOT let it sit in one place in the bbl, but keep
it going in and out evenly, and keep it running even when you take it out of
the barrel. Also, make sure you still have a good finish on the outside of
the bbl, so it will be easier to clean. Take your bbl, your PVC pipe, and
your micrometer or caliper over to a table where you can sit. Carefully mike
the inside of the PVC and the outside of your barrel. You will actually
want to do this in several places, at both ends of where you want to
suppressor to go, to get consistent measurements and ensure accuracy. The
silencer will be holding itself together with a friction fit, so make sure
you take the time to get this right! Once you get good measurements, lay
them out on your end plates, and get ready to cut. I have found out that
with cuts like this, you want to give yourself a little leeway and 'shave'
them to size (cut you inside a little small and your outside a little big),
so you have room to adjust. Remember - you can always cut a little more
off, but you start over if you cut too much!!! Keep testing the fit to make
sure you get it right. Once you have a good, tight fit on the barrel, put
the ends in place and fill the inside corners with epoxy to permanently bond
them down (you won't want to move them.) The best way to cut your endplates
is to round them off, then put them in the lathe, mounted on the barrel, to
give you more control and consistency in your cuts, because you want the
tube to stay on, yet be able to pull it apart for cleaning. Once you get a
good fit for the 'can' you should need a little effort to put it on and take
it off), get whatever packing you are going to use and wrap it around the
bbl, then hold it down while you put the can over it. Including letting the
epoxy cure (BEFORE you pack the silencer,) you should need about a day and a
half to get the job done. Anyone familiar with machine tools and shop
principles should be able to do this without too much trouble.

Goggle Fan

Construction
Begin by determining where you are going to mount the buttons, LEDs,
connectors and batteries in your project box. Drill the appropriate size
holes and mount them using epoxy to hold them in place. Some of these
components will come with screws or nuts for mounting, but I would suggest
using epoxy just to create a seal that paint will not get in thru.

Using the schematic diagram, wire the parts together using small conductor
wire; preferably solid conductor rather than stranded because in tight
places like a project box, it's easier to work with. Keep the wires as short
as possible.
When wiring the fan, there are two ways of doing it. The way I did, or the
way I would if I could do it again! I would suggest you mount a female plug
(like I mentioned before, it doesn't matter what plugs you use as long as
they fit together) in the project box, and using your twin lead wire (not
antenna wire) or speaker wire, run a wire long enough to reach your pocket
or wherever you're going to keep the fan control box while your playing and
put a male connector on the end. The way I put the plugs together for the
fan was to run a wire that would reach my goggles, and solder on a male
connector. I put a female on the fan leads. I used tie-wraps to attach the
leads to the inside of the mask.
To make a charging cable to charge the batteries, you will have to buy a
cigarette light adapter cord, without a connector on the end, and put an
opposite gender connector on the end that matches the one you installed in
the charging assembly of the control box.

Disclaimer
I cannot and will not be held responsible for any damages, expenses or
injuries if you build and/or use this project. I personally think that if
you get hurt using this fan, you screwed something up!!!

No-Fog Spray

Directions
Mix a solution of water and shampoo. I recommend anywhere from 5:1 to 10:1
(water: shampoo) in the spray bottle. You can experiment with different
strengths of the solution for best results.
Spray the solution on you goggles or eyeglasses and wipe off any excess.
I provide no guarantee of success. Success is up to you. This no-fog
spray is used by SCUBA divers around the world, but even under extreme
conditions (high heat and humidity) even this will fail. So don't count on
it as being a fix-all solution because there is none when it comes to
keeping goggles fog-free. Except using a combination, fan, spray, and
thermal lenses. Even then you still run into the occasional foggy lens.
Good Luck!

Smoke Bombs

Requirements:
Sugar
Saltpeter (usually found in a Large Drug Store)
OK, take 4 parts sugar, and 6 parts saltpeter and put them in a pot. Heat
them over a LOW flame, stirring constantly, until it is liquid. Pour it into
a container, add a fuse, and let it harden.
You can put it into a paper cup, and just light the cup, or you could pour
it into a mold.
Take some sturdy string and dip it in wax. You now have a fuse suitable for
a smoke bomb.

WARNING: If you put the contents in a paper cup, the cup will burn also, so
don't put the smoke bomb in an area with dry grass or anything else that
will burn

Paintball Grenades

Materials Needed:
Paintballs (or the solution that's in them)
A pot (if your using paintballs)
A rubber tube (something like the squadbuster)
A ball bearing a little bigger than the diameter of the tube
A pin
Some string
A syringe
First take the syringe and fill it, either using the paint from the
paintballs by heating them in the pot, or just by making your own. Take the
tube and seal off one end, by melting it together. Then fold the tube in
half and tie the string tightly around it, so that it holds each part of the
tube together, just like the squadbuster kind, and insert the ball bearing
into the other side, you can dip the unsealed end of the tube in very hot
water, to expand it, so the ball bearing will go in nice and snug, poke the
pin through the tube, right next to the ball bearing, so that it holds it in
place. Dip the end of the syringe in water, inject it into the tube, and
insert the paint. When it is all the way
full, it will pressurize the grenade just enough, so that when it is struck
against something hard, it will spray all over the enemy. To use it, pull
the pin out of the grenade, and simply throw at something hard, ie. a tree,
a rock, ect.

Paint Grenade

I have spent a long, long time researching paint grenades. I have spent an
equally long time surveying peoples experiences of using paint grenades.
Paint grenades fall into two basic categories: explosive, and "splatter".
Explosive grenades use a small charge, usually no larger than a firecracker,
to break open a paper shell and spew out the paint contents. They are
usually
lit with a fuse or use a pull-pin.
The model is the M-69. The paint tends to fly out in sloppy chunks, if
it flies out at all, due to the fact a distressing number of grenades tend
to
be duds. The grenades that I know of that fall into this category are: the
M-69 made by Strange Ordnance; a grenade made by Enola Gay (brand name
unknown); and a grenade made by Pro-Line (brand name unknown). Of these, the
only one used extensively is the M-69, which is odd seeing as how it has the
greatest overall failure rate. Now let me interject the final word here
about
explosive grenades: I DON'T LIKE THEM. The reason they set me on edge so
much
is twofold. One, I don't care how small the charge is in the grenade, it is
still an explosive, and as such threatens everyone's safety, including your
mask and goggle system. Two, paintball still labors under a negative public
image. I'm not helping matters admittedly by encouraging a "scale-model
war-game" atmosphere with my ideas and plans, however my point is; if the
public at large hears about us tossing EXPLOSIVE materials at each other,
it's all over, all of it. Strange Ordnance are you paying attention? I admit
these grenades are fun, the go boom, hell I want to play with one. But they
don't, repeat don't engender a safe atmosphere. Okay, that's off my chest.
Now on to the good stuff!! Okay, where was I, the second category of grenade
is the "splatter" kind. Grenades which fall into this category are: the
SquadBuster by Tippmann.
The Little Betty the grenade which you will be making here, and water
balloons. These type of grenades rely on paint under pressure to hurl their
contents onto targets. So let's begin shall we?
Materials needed:
A section of 1/8" rubber tubing about a foot long.(available at hose supply
stores, medical supply stores, or chemistry supply
stores.) Alternately, you could use a used SquadBuster.

A plastic clip tie
A large syringe (if you don't have medical friends, you can find syringe
like "emergency pumps for basketballs" in your local sporting goods store)
Some paint (either boiled down paintballs or children's washable
nontoxic paint
A pair of hemostats
Some ball bearings of slightly larger diameter than the tubing (you can find
these in your hardware store)
Some cotter pins
Some alcohol
A rubber band (optional)
A target

1) Take the tubing, and Pinch it down tight in the middle. If you want to
make smaller; Little Betty type grenades, use only a six inch length and tie
off one end of the tubing. If you're using an old SquadBuster, this is
already done for you.
2) Fill the syringe with the paint mixture and inject it into one side of
the
tubing. Leave about 2 to 2.5 inches at the top empty.
3) Before you remove the syringe, crimp off the tubing below it with the
hemostats. The filled section of tubing should look like a hotdog.
4) Lubricate one of the ball bearings with the alcohol and insert it into
the
tubing above the hemostats. If you still have the cap from the SquadBuster,
just fold the tubing tip over and place the cap on.
5) Insert one of the cotter pins above the ball bearing, through the tubing.
Or place the old SquadBuster pin through the hole in the cap. Leave the
hemostat on until the alcohol dries. If you are making a Little Betty type
grenade, you are now done.
6) Take the other empty side and repeat the process, except use the same
cotter pin to hold both bearings in.
7) If you want the grenade to have maximum area coverage with a smaller
paint
coverage, simply leave as is. However, if you want maximum paint coverage
put
a weak rubber band around the grenade. The theory being this: When you pull
the cotter pin out and throw the grenade, the non-banded kind will fall
apart, pointing in two different directions. The banded kind will however,
spray a greater amount of paint at a specific area. However, both types will
spray in a radius because the release of pressure will make the hose tip wag
around.
I have tested one of these, they do work, and expect about a 5 to 6 foot
spray radius. Remember VERY IMPORTANT: get a good arc on these or try to
throw it at something hard (like a bunker right behind your target) because
you need to get enough pressure when it hits to push out the bearing (or
knock off the cap). Conversely, after you have pulled the pin, DON'T squeeze
the grenade or you will get very, very messy! Also, after you pull the pin,
if you notice a small amount of leaking paint, throw it quickly or it will
blow soon! And this should be the final result:
So there you go folks, hope you enjoy it. If you try this out, email me an
let me know your results or send me some pictures. I am also interested in
anyone using these as cannon or mortar ammo! Please let me know if you try
this! Thank you all and happy painting!

PAINTBALL ALL-PURPOSE BOOBY TRAP

CAUTION: BY AGREEING TO THIS DISCLAIMER YOU MUST FULLY UNDERSTAND THE
FOLLOWING: The following device *IS* hazardous to use, it uses a Black Cat
firework to set off and could possibly be fatal or harmful. If you
construct this device you agree that anything you do is solely your
responsibility. It is highly recommended NOT to construct this trap!

Materials:
Duct tape (can never have enough)
Roll of toilet paper
Crayola powdered children's washable paint mix
Water
M-80 firecracker (m-60's might work haven't tried though, but don't buy the
small stuff like m-2000's)
Model rocket igniter thingie that comes in the engine packages
Thirty or more feet of wire, with positive and negative leads
9v battery

Tools:
Scissors
Glue gun

What to Do:
There are three different parts of this project that must be done first to
make production run smoothly, I will put them in order of the amount of time
needed to do them, so that you don't have to wait on something to dry or mix
thoroughly.
The steps are:
I. Making the paint
II. Making the explosive charge (Not as dangerous as it sounds...)
III. Making the shell
I. Making the paint
Okay, the icky gooey part first ... the paint in this device has to be able
to be thick and chunky in order for it to have enough viscosity not to leak
through the walls of the shell. If done correctly you will have a very nasty
looking brew with which you can wreak havoc upon your foes, if done
incorrectly your finished product could have unsatisfying results.
Step 1: Take the toilet paper off of the toilet paper roll, don't throw the
roll away! you'll use is later...
Step 2: Take the powdered paint and make about a quart of THICK paint by
adding water
Step 3: Tear up the toilet paper in to shreds (Don't go overboard, just rip
it up a bit) then chunk it into the paint. Now stir it all up until you
think it's good and ready, about 3 min. should do the trick.
Step 4: Take a strainer of some sort and dip it into the stew you just made,
and get all of the toilet paper out. let the toilet paper hang somewhere
drizzling all of the paint out (Don't force it out!)
II. Making the explosive charge
This is a very safe and easy way to make an electrically triggered m-80, if
done correctly, if done incorrectly you could walk out with a little less
digits than when you went in. The main thing to remember here is safety,
don't put your work by a fireplace, don't smoke while doing it, and don't go
walking around in your socks, shuffling your feet on carpets!! Let's get to
it...
Step 1: Take the m-80 and look at it. There should be a plastic cap on
either of the ends. Take off the cap that the wick is going into and place
it off to the side because you'll need it later.
Step 2: Take your scissors and cut the wick about 1/8" from where it goes
into the gray stuff.
Step 3: Take the rocket booster igniter and place it right on top of the cut
wick, and I mean RIGHT on top or besides, if this igniter doesn't catch the
wick, you've got a dud on your hands when your finished.
Step 4: Now very carefully move the igniter over to the side of the m-80 on
the cardboard at the lip of the m-80 and put a dab of hot glue there, be
VERY careful not to let it leak inside!! let that sit for a minute.
Step 5: Now get that cap you put to the side and place it back on, so that
the wires poke out of the top, you might have to cut a notch to let the
wires through, if you do, then after you place the cap back on, put some
glue in the extra open area so that it is liquid tight. also make sure that
the two wires are not touching anywhere, this could cause a short, and you'd
have a dud.
III. Making the shell
This is not too tricky, you'll need some duct tape, scissors and oh
yeah...that toilet paper roll you probably threw away.
Step 1: Take the toilet paper roll and smash the roll length ways flat on
the table, so that it has two creases in it running length ways.now
unflattened it and line up the creases so that if you wanted to you could
smash them on top of each other, causing two more creases to be made, now
smash the roll again, you should now have what look like a rectangular
prism, if you do, good for you.
Step 2: With your scissors in one hand and your prism in the other proceed
to cut about 5/8" down each crease, on either side of the prism. Do it now.
Step 3: Now it's duct tape time!! fold the cuts of one side of the prism
inward on top of each other, preferably in a cross over pattern, the way you
would a box when storing it and don't have any tape. now take some tape and
put it on the folds, and put it all over it, especially around the corners.
try not to tape in the middle of the prism, because it deadens the blast and
makes the paint fly less farther. take a small, 1/4" or smaller strip of
tape and wrap it around the base of the prism, to make the hold tighter on
there flaps that have just been taped.whew, you're almost done.....not really
Step 4: Poke two holes in the middle of the prism, no further apart from
each other than 1/4", put it on a crease if you can, but make sure it's in
the middle of the prism.

IV. Putting it all together
The title says it all I guess. just during the whole process make sure that
the wires don't touch a that the paint doesn't leak.
Step 1: Go find your paint/toilet paper, it should be pretty much just some
really damp and mushy colored toilet paper by now, if there are still drips
coming off of it, then smash some (not all but mostly) of the water out of
it.
now separate the toilet paper into halves, take one hlf ane completely tear
it up, take the other half and tear it into bigger chunks, now mix it all
back together.
Step 2: Take the modified m-80 and put it inside the prism, slip the two
wires through the hole, and put some hot glue on either hole, to make it
liquid proof, hold it until it dries then let go, the m-80 should not slip
out of the holes.
Step 3: Take your gobbledee goop paint and put it into the prism, let it
settle for about a minute so that air bubbles can get out. If you make the
paint the right consistency you shouldn't have any problems, if you didn't
you will have leakage.
Step 4: Follow the same step as step III-3
Doing this right should result in a little rectangular prism, with silver
ends and two wires coming out of it.
V. Detonating your newly made weapon amongst unsuspecting foes.
This is really easy, take your double lead wires and put them on the two
wires coming out of the prism, just twist them together and make sure you
have one leading positive and one leading negative.now take the prism and
place it somewhere where the enemy can't easily see it, but is sure to come
by. now run off trailing the wire to what ever length you cut it at, and lay
In wait. When the enemy comes by monitor how fast they're going, and try to
figure when they will be 3-5 ft. away from the prism (note that it takes on
average 2-3 seconds for the prism to detonate) now whip out the 9v and push
the two wire leads to either end of the 9v. If you have a good guestimation
you will hear a satisfying *pop*, and a round of "what the hells" and "con
flabbits". Now rush in on their flank and sweep and clear.

Again I must tell you that if you build this thing, you are responsible for
any actions that the come from this design. I claim no responsibility. These
plans are here for just reference.

GHILLIE SUITE

These instructions and pic are from https://www.angelfire.com/ma/sniper312.
If you have any questions please ask them on that page. There are pictures
and examples of other suits and a lot more information for snipers, so
please visit the site to see the full complement of ideas.
For other plans on Ghille Suits go into the Mods, FAQ's and Q&A area of this
web sight (sniper section).

This is my step-by-step instructions on how I built my ghillie suit:
Ghillie Suit #1:
#1. I first acquired some military camouflage netting from an Army Surplus
store.
#2. I then sewed this netting onto an old BDU shirt dating from my father's
service in the Vietnam War.
#3. I then tied on stripped pieces of olive drab cloth that I tore from
other olive drab BDUs.
#4. I cut the ends of the strips so they would frazzle a little, and they
did.
#5. I quickly learned that this ghillie suit didn't work properly, so I tore
the netting off the shirt and use it as a wonderful spring/summer camo net
for positional
camouflage.
Ghillie Suit #2:
#1. I acquired a pair of mechanics coveralls from the army surplus shop.
($40)
#2. I sewed on padding and extra canvas around the knees, and sewed in an
internal belt around my waist.
#3. I acquired some army hammock netting from a military catalog (Brigade
Quartermasters, $20)
#4. I also bought a Camelbak "Pakteen" 50 oz. also from Brigade
Quartermasters ( $40)
#5. I sewed in a pouch on the inside back for the Camelbak.
#6. I sewed on the netting for my back. I anchored it around the sides and
anchored some in the middle for strength. Instead of one giant piece of
netting
covering my whole body, I am placing the netting in sections that do not
span any of my joints. This makes it more flexible and easier to attach.
#7. I bought some burlap at a fabric store. I got two tones of dark and
light brown, and a tone of darkish green.( $10). I got about four square
yards.
#8. I sewed some netting onto my boonie hat and added burlap strips and
frazzled them by pulling off the smaller horizontal pieces of burlap. Quick
Tip: Try
to add the burlap outside because it can get messy, especially while
cutting. And shred the burlap outside, this is extremely messy.
#9. I put burlap and assorted cloth on legs. Then I did the same to the back
and finally the arms. It is important that all these parts look the same in
color, or
the suit will look funny.
#10. Now that I am mainly done (a ghillie suit is never really done) I am
going to field test it. For this, my spotter and I go to a field which is
about 200 yards
wide, and my spotter sets up a spotting scope and tries to find me on the
other side of the field.
Once I start using this suit, I will try to come up with some good tips on
usage and tactics while wearing it. Also, I will try to get some pictures of
it. Check
back later and email me with any suggestions. I am trying to make this site
the best for ghillie suits.

Pull Squeegee