Non-electric agitated hopper:
Model I
This is very simple. Take your VL200 or other hopper, and drill two small holes in it. One on the top, forward of the center, and one on bottom, about 1/2 " behind the stalk. Now, take a rubber band, and cut it so it is about 1" long. Next take some string ( I prefer leather cord) and tie it to one end of the rubber band. You will knot this in the top hole, so that the rubber band hangs down into the hopper. But not yet! Next, tie a length of string to the other end of the band. Now, crumple up a ball of tape, preferably duct tape ;) and attach it to the bottom of the rubber band, around the string/ band knot. Finally, run knot the top string to the top hole, the top of the band should touch the top of the hopper, with the tape ball hanging in the hopper, then run the other end of the string out of the hole in the bottom of the hopper. Simply attach the end of the string to some moving part of your paintgun, such as the cocking arm, or cocking block.
This is how it works: when the gun fires, and the cocking rod moves back and forth, it will tug on the string which will pull down on the tape ball attached to the rubber band. On each shot, the tape ball will stroke across the feed hole in the hopper, clearing any jams. The rubber band insures it will return to it's place. Hope it works!
Method II
This method will only work on guns with an exhaust valve, such as a 3 way (4 way) valve like on the AutoCocker. Basically, if you look at the back of the 3way, there is an opening. This is where gas is released during the cycle. If you stick a small tube in the hole (not to far in or you will jam the cycle!) and route it to the hopper (drill a hole in the bottom of your VL200) you can use it to agitate the balls! I have heard however, that this may cause ball breaks in the hopper, if so, put a tiny piece of foam on the end of the tube and see if it helps! Hope it works!
