By far the most substantial pests of Adeniums are mites. Mites are not insects, so they require special miticides to combat them. Mites are tiny microscopic species of arachnids that suck juices from the growing tips of plants. Characteristic signs include yellowing of new leaves and even deformities of shoot and flowers. Here are some examples of mite damage.

Not only the foliage are attacked, but also the flowers. A characteristic of flowers is the webbed petals or the spidery petals often with missing segments between them. The mites attack these developing buds in the developing stage and as they mature, their development is handicapped by these attacks. The use of miticides are about the only cure for these outbreaks.

The use of state of the art miticides have been the only solution to these outbreaks. Such miticides include AVID, and MERIT. Alternating these miticides with other miticide/insecticides such as Orthene WP, DeltaGuard, and Kelthane WP has provided some relief from these serious pests.


Mites usually appear during the hot summer months from July through October. It has been suggested that wetting by frequent misting of the foliages may discourage mites from establishing themselves on your plants. Insecticidal soaps don't appear to curb their numbers from exploding. Various non-chemical means have been adopted for use to combat these pests. The use of cinnamon oil mixed in water and sprayed has shown some interruption of their life cycle. Various chili pepper/tabasco sprays has also shown some prevention and destroying of mite populations. Neem oil has some effects on mites. Also alternating miticide formulations to include other non-miticide spray solutions is the only way the prevent immunity of the mites. Although these have shown some success, it is the use of these miticides that will ultimately reduce mite populations and allow the plants to resume growth and flowering. Be sure to alternate several types of miticides so that the current population doesn't become immune to it. Mixing a miticide with orthene WP and then another instance with neem oil, and then another time with something else, will prevent immunity to the spray. Never mix two miticide together. Mixing of two miticides usually counter-balances the mixture making the spray harmless or allow break down of the miticide strength. Miticides are best applied to well watered plants in the morning before the sun hits the plants. The second best time for spraying is in the evening after the hottest part of the day has gone. Miticides works best when the plants are not stressed and well watered. Some iticides also work in a systemic fashion an plants that are well watered will evenly distribute the active ingredients faster and evenly. Spray all parts of the plants. Spray healthy and affected plant parts evenly and equally. Healthy plants nearby should also be strayed simutaneously so that hidden populations of mites don't go dormant while incubating on non-sprayed plants. Spray the undersides, tips, flower buds and dried flowers. Keep all dead debris removed off the plants and surrounding area. These dried leaves and flowers are usually how mites travel from one side of the garden to another by wind. Spray the crevices along the stems that have cracks and openings where mites can hide. Spray the surface of the soil to kill any mites that may have fallen off the foliage during spraying. Spray pot sides and even a little on the benches themselves when applying the spray. Any possible hiding places will be where the next generation of mites originate from.
If you have a real serious mite problem. I suggest that you clip off the tips and leaves that are affected and destroy them in a bucket of clorox solution. But be sure to spray the plant to protect the newer developing buds and shoots from becoming reinfected by mite populations that were missed from removal.