BEERS & ALES

        Why did the Pilgrims land in Massachusetts instead of Virginia?  As the Mayflower journal put it, “We could not now take time for further search or considerations, our victuals being spent, especially our beer.”  As much as they loved the “liquid bread,” the Pilgrims were not the first to bring beer to America.  Before their arrival Columbus documented that he was served a special corn brew by the Native Americans.  While many undocumented types of beers surely existed in the colonial days, today the world has hundreds of large-label commercial brands available.

HOW BEER IS MADE

        Beer is a brewed and fermented drink consisting of malted barley, hops, water, and yeast.  Like wine making, beer brewing is simple in its natural process.  But creating a quality beer is not simple and requires a brew master with a watchful eye.
 
        First the barley is steeped—that is, the dry, hard grains are soaked in water for two days to soften them.  Once softened, the barley is ready for germinating.  The grains are placed in temperature- and humidity-controlled compartments for about a week, during which the barley will sprout into what is termed “green malt” and produce the enzyme amylase, and enzyme that enables the conversion fo starch to sugar for fermentation.
 
        The green malt is dried in a kiln to stop the sprouts from further development.  Here, time and temperature controls are critical, as the amount of time the green malt spends in the kiln and the roasting temperature decide the degree of sweetness and the color of the end product.  Once dried the barley malt is sifted through to extract the sprouts, after which the remaining malt is ground in a milling process.
 
        After milling, hot water and milled barley are mixed in a mashing tun, creating a cereal mash, which causes the starch to change to sugar, forming a liquid called “wort.”  The wort is brewed in a large kettle for several hours and hops are added to enhance the aroma and flavor.  Then the hops are filtered out, and the wort is chilled immediately, helping to produce a clear beer.
 
        Pitched together with yeast in a large tank, the wort begins to ferment, producing carbon dioxide.  After a week or so, depending upon the brew, the beer is ready for maturation, during which the beer will develop new characteristics in its flavor and aroma.
 
        Lastly, the beer is either racked, canned, or bottled for the consumer.  Racked beer is not filtered but kegged directly from the maturation tank.  Kegs generally are not pasteurized because they are usually consumed quickly, while cans and bottles with potentially longer lives are pasteurized to avoid spoiling.

STYLES OF BEER

        Beer categories vary depending on beer characteristics and geographic location because there is no industry standard as there is for whiskey.  In fact, there are some 70 styles of beer.  However, most beer is either ale or lager.
 
        What the Pilgrims named beer was actually ale.  Ale, unlike lager beer, is a top-fermenting brew.  During fermentation the yeast floats to the top after feasting on the sugar, which gives it a distinct flavor.  Ale is typically dark-hued, bitter, full-bodied, aromatic, and has a higher alcohol content that lager.
 Under the ale heading fall many different types of beer:
 
        Alt, a German beer, is generally high in hops, medium-bodied, and reddish-brown in color.  Two name brands are Gaffel and Gilden.
 
        Stout is a dark and full-bodied ale that is brewed with roasted barley for a stronger flavor and aroma.  There are several kinds of stout.  Among them is a dry stout, which is light on hops.  International stouts tend to be stronger than U.S. blends.
 
        Porter, a baby brother to stout, actually preceded its stronger counterpart and origingated in London during the 1700s.  It also has a dark color and is full-bodied with a bittersweet taste but has a lower alcohol content than a stout.  Chocolate malt is added to create a robust porter and may be found in Sierra Nevada Porter.  For a lighter and medium-bodied flavor, try a brown porter such as Ssamuel Smith’s Taddy Porter.
 
        Stronger Ales all tend to have a powerful taste and a high alcohol content.  There are three common variations: Scottish Ales, which is full-bodied and has less hops than English ale; Barley Wine (called wine because of the similarity in alcohol content), which is characterized by its hoppy nature; and English Old Ale, which typically is a draft ale that is identified by its sweet, nutty flavor.
 
        Compared to ales, lagers tend to be crisper, drier, clearer, and more carbonated.  Most American beers fall into the lager category.  Lager encompasses a wide range of beer, from light to dry to dark.  Light beer such as Coors Light and Miller Lite are light-bodied, pale in color, and lower in calories.  Dry beer is also pale, but has a low alcohol content, which results in a diminished aftertaste.  In contrast, the popular dark lagers are not only deeper in color but are aromatic and full-bodied.  The exceptions are American dark lagers which change only in color.
 
        Pilsner is a moderately hoppy, pale lager with a crisp, light- to medium-bodied flavor.  A town in Czechoslovakia called Pilzen was famous for its beer, and breweries wishing to capitalize on the fame and emulate the taste of the lager named their beer after it.
 
        Bockbier or Bock, which originated in Einbeck, Germany, can be either pale or dark, and is a full-bodied lager.  Because of an old myth, bock used to be brewed only in the spring, but it is now brewed year round.  A good bock is characterized by a sweet, malty taste.  Another kind of bock is the Dopplebock, which is more intense and a dark-brown color.
 
        Sake, usually thought of as a rice wine, is actually beer made from rice.  The confusion is not surprising considering sake’s resemblance to wine with its clear color and high alcohol content—usually 12-20 percent.  Produced in Japan, Sake is traditionally served hot—about 100 degrees—in ceramic bottles.  It may also be served on the rocks or at room temperature.
 
        Other specialty beers include Lambic, or fruit beers, which are made by brewing into the beer different fruits, such as cherries and raspberries.  Herb beers mix spices like garlic and pepper into the brew.  And for those who love the taste of beer, but want to avoid the alcohol, many nonalcoholic beers are available.  By law they are required to have less than .5 percent alcohol by weight.  To produce this beer the alcohol is either extracted or the beer is only partially fermented.

BUYING, STORING, AND SERVING

        Beer is a perishable item, but following general rules will ensure quality and freshness.  Beer should always be bought from a store that refrigerates its brew.  Avoid stores that are lit with fluorescent lights or where the beer is placed in direct sunlight, as it may skunk—or compromise—the flavor of the beer.  To help block out unwanted light, but tinted brown or green bottles.  Cans, while economical, may flavor the beer with a metallic taste.
 
        Handle with care.  Jostling beer can cause a chemical reaction that will change the flavor and scent of the beer.  For storing purposes, beer should be kept in a cool place—preferably around 450F—and temperature should not fluctuate or damage may occur.  Unlike wine, beer should be stored upright and for short periods of time.
 
        When serving beer always use a glass.  This will release the carbon dioxide into the air instead of into the stomach.  Before pouring, it is important to peel away any foil completely, as contact with the beer will taint the taste.  Contrary to popular opinion, a beer should be poured in the center of the upright glass, not at a slant—all the better to release carbon dioxide.  Temperature for serving varies with the type of beer served: ordinary beer at 450F; choice lagers at 500F; prime ales at 550F; and porters at 600F.

HOME-BREWING

        Many of our forefathers brewed their own beer; George Washington brewed his own beer, as did Samuel Adams and Thomas Jefferson.  Today, home-brewing serves as a hobby instead of a need, but it does have a strong following, with magazines and books dedicated to the subject.  For the unsure beginner, complete home-brewing kits that are easy to use are now available at grocery stores for around twenty dollars.

MICROBREWERIES

        With the advent of beer tasting and appreciation, the old philosophy that any beer will do has disappeared.  Three hundred microbreweries that specialize in finer-quality beer have sprouted up across the United States to cater to the beer connoisseur.  Technically capable of producing no more than 10,000 barrels a year, microbreweries contend that they take more time and care making their beer than do the major commercial breweries.  As the brewmaster of Samuel Adams is famous for saying, “The major breweries spill more in a day that [microbreweries] bottle all year.”  These brews from the smaller micros tend to be fresher because they are not shipped great distances.  Many local restaurants and bars now have regularly scheduled microbrewery sampling nights.

TASTING BEER

        Appearance, aroma, flavor...the principles of beer tasting and wine tasting are similar.
 
        Before opening the beer bottle, check the amount of space between the head of the beer and the bottle top.  The space should equal no more that 1 ½ inches and no less than ½ inch for adequate breathing.  Next look for sediment .  There should only be a thin layer, and in commercial beers, there shouldn’t be any.
 
        Once the beer is poured, hold the glass against a white background to look at the clarity and color.  A quality beer will be clear or brilliant with the color corresponding to that of its type.  As for carbonation, small bubbles indicate the beer was carbonated naturally, while large bubbles mean the carbonation is artificially added.
 
        Whereas evaluating the aroma of a wine requires olfactory subtleness, beer testing requires a sharp, deep sniff.  Many beers will have fruity undertones in the aroma and a practiced nose will be able to discern the fruit scents.  Wine connoisseurs will notice that the vocabulary of wine tasting is often interchangeable with that of beer tasting.  For example, a herbaceous wine has the same meaning as a herbaceous beer.
 
        The best time to taste beer is in the morning when the senses are the sharpest.  Nibbling on white bread will cleanse the palate before trying a beer, and smoking should be avoided several hours before serious tasting.  Mild-flavored beers should be served before strong-flavored beers, as well as light-bodied before full-bodied.  When rating the flavor of beer, the beer should be swirled around the tongue.  Repeat  this twice so the flavor is clear in the mind.  A good beer will be true to its character mainly in hoppiness, body, and maltiness.  As always, personal preference is the most important factor.