I actually got into town to surf twice this week (! )... and both
times were just lovely. No big stuff ... just the classic, peaky,
glassy, crystal clear, waist-to-chest high waves ... some nice longer
rides ... mellow crowds. Makes me remember why I love my break.
One thing that made both times especially nice was reconnecting with
surf buds I haven't seen for a while. On Sunday I got to surf with my
special longboard friend - the one who always pushes me to take the
bigger waves - and yesterday I was with my 'posse' of boomer rock
spongers - the jokesters. Lots of laughs with those guys. I forgot
how these people make my time out there so much more fun.
Summer is to me ... lulling waves ... peaceful spaces between sets ...
talk story time. Another sponger friend who showed up on Sunday told a
pretty scary story -- he was just back in the water after having a
heart attack (while surfing) last January. Made me realize all the
more why I want to be near people I know when I surf. We will be
keeping an eye on him out there.
LOL ... I am re-reading all this and sense that my surfing lacks some
'desperation' ... What can I say? ... Good!!
Mama Jama Sus
... charging any way I can
