Last night I decided I wasn't going to waste my Sunday so set my alarm to wake up for an early morn session. I checked my email first thing when I woke, and there was a message from Neal ('Sponge') Miyake. I had written last week that I would really like to hook up with him and Bud sometime if the waves were down to 'play waves' size. I know how precious their wave time is and so I didn't want to ask them to feel like they would have to accommodate my newbie skills out there. The surf report said flat to one foot; Neal and Bud had headed out to the reef off Diamond Head at dawn and I was invited to join them
I got to the site about 8 am and still felt chilly (I am thinking I may need a wet suit if I am going to do this dawn patrol stuff!). Funny thing, as I am walking down the path I meet Gilbert, the hydroplane bodyboard guy and tell him I just saw his pic online on Neal's site. He notes that the waves looks pretty blown out, but, "it is good just to get out and get wet." He directs me to the channel to paddle out -- I see the spot Neal described in his message, Lighthouse.
Neal was easy to pick out -- just like his pictures, smiling and sporting a new Custom X (damn, I want one like that!). Bud and his bro, Rich were a surprise (I think I know Bud from somewhere, but then in HawaiÕi everyone has much less than 6 degrees of separation; we will trace who's cousin is related to whom one of these days!). This was quite a special event for me. Neal and Bud have been so helpful from the very first time I asked for advice here in the newsgroup. I have really looked up to them as the "real surfers" ... and now they would be the first in the group to see me surf (or not!) I was as excited as a little kid.
Lighthouse had some surprises for me. My first ride was just so sweet; how delightful to be able to take a wave and not think about coral heads 'jumping' in front of me! I got a little too cocky then of course, and took one in so far that I got caught square in the impact zone. I tried going straight out and finally realized I was getting winded (and not making any headway) so started paddling parallel to the break -- unfortunately it was the wrong way. I think I could have gone all the way to Waikiki before I would have found another channel out. Dumb! About that time I turned around to go back to the original channel, and saw Neal signaling me -- so typical, he blamed himself for not telling me about the rip that carried me so far down. (Typical of me not to notice that no one goes left there! ... duh! ) By then I had brushed against the reef (a new ritual: leaving bits of my flesh all over the island), and was really tired. I felt bad for Neal -- just exactly what I didnÕt want, for him to have to worry about me.
We got back out into the lineup and the waves had really picked up (no where near 1 footers for sure!). Bud and Rich were swerving and cutting every which way. Those country surfers can rip. There was quite a group out there by now, too - all really serious but smiling board surfers. I caught a couple more good waves, learned to duckdive (well, am still learning -- it is something I havenÕt really tried at Publics, since I never wanted to go face down in the coral ), and ... only ran over one person (!) ... ok ... only ran over Neal (backwards). Oops!
Once Neal started taking pictures the pressure was on. I caught a sweet sweet wave, but was behind a board, so doubt he got that pic ... the one I really hope comes out is my (infamous) off-the-lip-suicide-six-foot-drop ride (grin) ... yah ... I survived it ... canÕt imagine what my expression was. The faces of the ppl below me tells me I might have looked a bit green. It was a thrill tho -- one of those waves where ya just hang on and pray.
Sigh ... I got home exhausted and sated. Such gorgeous waves, sun, and ... gorgeous guys (they should all be in the Mavs movie!). Thanks, guys ... this was special.
MamaJama Süs
Neal's 'Team Umlaut' story (with pics!)
