Sunset ... I pried myself out of the car and dragged my aching body up the
stairs to my house: "I think I will take up Mahjong like a normal
grandmother."
Aside from delighting my Chinese-Filipino son-in-law with that comment, I
have to say I didn't have any happy thoughts to share .. I really had a
bummer session. Total kook.
Waikiki is *POUNDING* ... reports say it will go up - 6-10' tonite
(Waikiki??) ... it looked close to that and was still rising when I left.
The swell is ON -- and it is rough. There was almost no time between sets.
The breaks were totally *hemojang* (every which way! -- no such thing as a
lineup, party waves galore). It looked pretty crumbly at first, but by five
things smoothed out and there were long rides far out ... going all the way
in.
For me, sadly, it was just work. I never found 'my spot', ducked many a
crashing wave in the impact zone (every place was the impact zone!), really
goofed a couple of almost good waves (cheee ... even ran over someone!
haven't done that in over a year!) ... I just spent lots of time being
rag-dolled, dumped, roiled and rolled. My sinuses are stinging; my eyes hurt
to be open. My muscles are throbbing.
As one woman at the shower commented, "humbling."
