Here is my alt.surfing post:
From: Mama_Sus (stokegrrrl@hotmail.com)
Subject: I saw the Shark!
Date: 2001-07-23 13:17:49 PST
... and she is *beautiful*!!
I really wasn't terrified ... it was just awesome ... I am still all
hyper-stoked ... LOL!
I missed the main part of this last swell - just got out on Thursday
for some nice sets at Cunhas (that is the area near the Wall that only
breaks when it is big). Lots of family stuff this weekend, so I
treated myself to an extra early morning session today at my regular break - needed to get
some leftover waves all to myself!
And the waves were lovely .. about waist/chest high, gentle with nice
walls. There was just one other sponger out; we chatted about the
swell this past week. He had enjoyed it all.
I was a little disoriented by the early morning light - the rising sun
was behind a cloud and so the water had that 'mirror' effect that I
sometimes see at late sunset ... it was hard to gauge where the coral
heads were, and the tide was going down fast. My first wave in was the
best - nice size, but it seemed to die too soon, so I got really
excited when I was able to kick into the re-form - which had a lot
more juice. I rode it about 15 yards and then pulled up on the
shoulder. By this time the sun was shining straight into my eyes, so I
didn't realize that this great ride was due to the water jacking up
over the main part of the reef - the coral was just 2-3 inches below
the surface -- the next wave caught me sitting in the middle of a
circle of coral heads, swearing. Luckily, no big problem - gentle
wave. I paddled back out and, saddly, didn't chance the great reform
again (wimp!).
Instead, I headed outside a bit, where I couldn't catch anything much
-- just short futless rides! I saw the other sponger getting the
re-forms (he rode them way over the reef, so had no problems). So, I
went back inside - the beautiful sets were coming in. I missed the
first wave. Then, outside, there was a perfect chest high wall - the
sun was suddenly shining right through the green glassy peak. There, I
saw the shark. She was moving across the wave - a perfect silouette -
turning back out to sea, so I saw just a glance of her side as she
rolled to show her white belly. She was only about ten yards from me
... at the spot I had just left. She must have been right next to me
the whole time! There was a school of manini (little striped fish)
framed in the wave with her, and she was gracefully moving through
them.
I headed in, shouting to my buddy. He realized I was excited, but when
I got to him, we just sat there and chatted about it for a few
minutes. I felt privilaged. *I* got to see her! This guy is there
almost every day and he hasn't seen her yet. Still, I decided not to
stay - even though I believe she is the same one that 'nudged' me --
and rejected me! -- a month ago, I didn't think I should be there. It
was more a matter of respect than fear I think. The other sponger
didn't feel too concerned (she is only about 4-5 feet long); he was
still out when I paddled to shore.
Of course I had to tell everyone I passed: the elderly morning
swimmer, the guys at the AA meeting under the palms, the surfer at
Diamond Head lookout. My family will never hear the end of it (not
that my daughter is too thrilled about my risks out there as it is ...
lol).
... Wow ... what an experience!
Stoked!
Süs
... ok, this is my first, excuse the effusivity; *next time* I can be
smugly blase ;-)
