Sunday 9/29 7am
O'ahu - Diamond Head Cliffs
Waves - overhead
wind - low
The runner who sets the pace for a race is called the front runner ... what
is the surfer who marks the peak for every wave?
At many breaks it is not hard to find "The Peak Spot" but at DH Cliffs it is
a tricky deal on the best of days. Yesterday I found my 'Peak Man' - he was
a slightly graying local guy on a short board sitting far outside. Those
hints alone would give it away, but it was the way he was watching the
horizon that cinched it for me. I positioned myself about five yards over
and outside of him -- shortly after, I caught my "ride of the year".
This Sunday swell was a surprise bump - one of the guys out there ('hey,
long time no see') was chatting about how the reports said it was going to
be flat-to-one. (Heading down the trail I had wondered if I should even
paddle out - the bigger sets were even breaking in the channel. I was
doubling my stamina and strength -- these DH waves are not Waikiki waves --
I had some fun in the last few swells in Waikiki, but no real challenges).
I was too tempted ... I could see the lineup was sparse (The north shore was
going off - ppl heading north instead of here.) Turns out there were only
six at the outside lineup! (On a Sunday morning!) I was the only sponger; I
paddled far outside.
The clean-up sets were ferocious. I got caught in one, ducked easily enough
and realized I was stronger than I thought. The guy over from me was
worriedly watching for me to pop back up. I smiled.
My "Peak Spot" marker was paddling to stay in place and I paddled to keep
up. I floated over the top of a couple of big ones -- he caught them inside.
I didn't like being so far out, but I hate ducking the crunchers more.
Finally, I saw one of a set that no one else was going to get. It was rising
to overhead plus one half.
As I took off I was surprised -- the wall jacked up - I was headed straight
down. This is not my usual Cliffs ride - these waves tend to be massive
slopes, not peaking walls. I cut quickly and sliced across the smooth wall
- then down the slope with bunny-hop speed. I began to grin and hoot ... a
long ride ... how cooooool. Just as the wave was slowing I saw the re-form
... and ... yes! I kicked into it and got another long ride on the shoulder
high wave. I flew across the reef shouting and singing!
When I got back out to the lineup I was still babbling and beaming.That was
by far the biggest wave I rode this year, and the longest ride I have ever
had at Cliffs. I have been so tentative and hesitant this year ... its been
a long healing time. My friend out at the lineup laughed as I jabbered on
about the ride ... "I have seen you take bigger ones" he said.
LOL! ... maybe I will again someday.
Sus
.... stoked ...
