Wahooo !! ... I caught my first wave with my (almost 8 yr old)
granddaughter today!
We were at 'baby Walls' (Kuhio next to The Wall) and the waves were so
sweet. Just little peaks that didn't scare her, but had enuf 'oomf' to
really get a nice 15 yard 'boogie board' ride to shore. Some of the
regulars were actually doing cuts on the waves, but in this spot the
majority of ppl are straight-in boogers - many getting their first
time thrills.
Nika surprised me right off; she has been practicing with her Mom
(ever since she saw 'Blue Crush' even the term duck dive has taken on
a new importance.) She paddled right out with me and was completly
unafraid of the incoming peaks -- she squealed loudly as we careened
over the tops of them to get out faster. "I really like the thin
ones!" she said about the 'fun ride' up and over the peaks.
We positioned ourselves just outside the 'lineup' ( a very loose term
in this area); I kept her close beside me. I didn't know how she would
take the ride, but knew she could handle being dumped. She has spent
the summer with me in the Waimanalo waves and has been rolled,
flounced and tossed quite a bit. A really nice peak was forming behind
us, so I held her board next to me and told her to kick like crazy. I
let go of her as we both caught the wave. She rode head up and
grinning her big toothy grin as we flew toward shore. She made it all
the way right next to me - it was like surfing next to a little seal.
Inside she was laughing and shrieking, "Mama Sus, that was the best
ride I have had in years!!!" ... (LOL ... years) .... The kid knows
.... STOKE!!
So do I.
Mama Sus
... very proud ...
