I sat back and watched WSD last year; this year it seemed it
like it wasn't going to be much different for me.
I guess I missed something. I enjoy reading surf reports in
the newsgroup all the time -- so, I am puzzled by the significance
of this special day. Is it about competition?! (for a
thermos?!) - LOL - with the way competitive surfers are
dissed and picked apart in this ng, I think not. Is it about
stoke? ... sigh ... that isn't something that can be
scheduled or created for a certain day -- no matter how the
waves go. Some have hinted that is about 'community' -
everyone thinking of all the others, honoring our common
love of surfing at the same time around the world. I think
we do that every day here. I cherish this community for that
alone.
... So ... I will share these musings - you can say it is
for WSD if you want. I haven't decided yet.
I, personally, have had a hard winter. It has been a time
of introspection and isolation. It has been fine. Winters
are good for that. I found myself mostly surfing at places
where I wouldn't have to interact much - places with
multiple breaks, and with enough people that I could avoid
any direct conversations. I was working on my skills.
Last week I returned to my home break, a great summer south
shore break. It was strange, though ... a windy day, that
is, wind everywhere else but out at this reef. As one guy
said, it felt like we were in the eye of a hurricane. The
tide was just right, the water glassy, the waves small -
about waist to shoulder high. It was a great welcome back
for me. There were some surprises, though. One was the guys.
I hadn't seen these buddies for months. They were still the
same: wacky, whooping and full of stories. They were all
happy to see me back.
I guess I was surprised to find how much I missed the
camaraderie. These guys, older spongers like me, are like
otters - they take off on the same waves, bump into each
other and just laugh, hollar and show off. As one said,
"Out here we are teenagers again!" It felt good to be
laughing. I also discovered my surfing had improved since I
last saw them all - even they were surprised at a couple of
my longer rides - LOL - especially when I scooped the
largest outside wave of the day! These guys are the ones who
have taught me about the break, about skills, about taking
risks ... they knew me from the time I was first flopping
around being a total kook! That history is significant.
Another surprise for me was how perfect the waves were. I
forgot! I had set myself up this past winter to work on two
things: fear and endurance. Diamond Head (Cliffs) was good
for that -- but lousy for long rides; on some days I felt
lucky to get even one ride. Here at this break I was
catching wave after wave -- sliding along the wall on even
the smallest waves -- ripping along easily, smoothly -
sometimes even catching the inside re-form. The sun broke
through brilliantly for a moment and I could see the reef
flying by just inches below the surface. Breathtaking!
I feel like a change is happening. It is interesting that we
have WSD in the spring/autumn (for north/south hemi folks).
Is it because the seasonal changes makes us more attuned to
other changes? I am thinking that this WSD - for me - is
less a chance to showcase wild skills and adventures than a
seasonal rite -- a time of reflection and connection. I am
enjoying reconnecting.
It has been really fascinating watching the changes with
everyone here this past year. And fascinating to be part of
it all. Mahalo to all who have known and supported me since
I was flopping around being a total kook here! This history
is significant.
You are a lovely bunch of otters.
a hui hou,
Süs
