Sunrise (OK, close enough ... 7am!)
Waves: low, some 4' faces in the good sets
Wind: still, then breezy as the sun came up
Temperature: who cares, I had my new thicker rashguard!
I was almost going to shrug off WSD ... such a low tide in the morning;
still nursing my leg ... not sure I would be able to even paddle out.
I went down to see if it was worth it. There were only two boards and two
spongers at my break. I was surprised to see anyone; the tide was so low
nearly the whole reef was exposed. I didn't bother to stretch; just went in,
patted the water and asked her to let me have my day. My leg seemed to like
the cold; I felt no aches.
It didn't take me long to figure out that even this small crowd was going to
intimidate me. I moved to my "Rock" and was relieved that these guys didn't
know anything about that part of the break. I had it all to myself.
There were some long waits between sets, but the ones that came in seemed
just so *nice* ... so familiar to me. My old easy-going peaks ... the kind I
can take those way-late take-offs, ride smoothly across the face, and still
pull out of before jamming into the rocks ... Nice walls ... not as long as
usual with the tide still going out, but long enough to make me sigh. I said
to myself, I surf.
I stayed out two hours, and was just about to go in when my Sunday buds
showed up; they were happy to see me out and asked about my leg. My leg! I
had totally forgotten it. Wow. I realized it was feeling better than ever!
"Sometimes a muscle injury gets cramped and has to be worked out" my bud
said smiling. Wish I had known that sooner ... I missed some good swells
this week.
Stayed and caught a few more ... then went in and spent the rest of the day
in the park, painting more designs on my car (... and listened to a
digeridoo 'serenade', talked with artists, shared munchies with friends, got
burnt a bit ...)
Süs
... life is sweet ...
