July 10, 2002
Those three words are the theme of this yearfs International AIDS
Conference in Barcelona, Spain. I have been in Barcelona since last
Friday on a scholarship I was awarded to attend the Conference. The last
International AIDS Conference was held in Durban, South Africa in 2000,
and the next one will be in Bangkok in 2004. I have heard a lot about
Durban, and have seen the impact that Spain is having.
The past six days have been a real eye-opener as to my role in
international development, my personal development in Cape Verde, and
the state of the world HIV/AIDS epidemic. The Conference is an amalgam
of cultural and academic knowledge being spread by activists,
entrepreneurs, scientists, academics, and participants. Each day, I am
in awe of the renewed commitment and passion I see in the people around
me to fighting this mammoth battle against HIV/AIDS.
Everything is so overwhelming here. My most salient memories so far are
of: the 2 day development worker conference proceeding the real
conference where I met the 1,495 other scholarship recipients from
around the world involved in prevention, treatment, and research. From
the Greek actor to the gay, Peruvian chemical engineer, each has changed
the way I view this epidemic. Each with a unique language, culture, and
story.
On Sunday, there was a Community Forum for the entire day where I
networked, enjoyed cultural peformances including capoeria and flamenco,
in addition to befriending a group of exciting Canadians. By the
afternoon, we were in the March for Life, which brought media attention
to the millions of dollars still needed for treatment and care, as well
as the billions missing from the Global Fund. We were in the front row
of the March, so my photo grazed a newspaper or two with the Canadian
flag temporarily tattooed on my arm, wild Samba drummers guiding our
walk to the Olympic Palace for the Opening Ceremony.
Monday was significant because I was first introduced to the major
pharmaceutical companies with their glitzy $100,000 one-time-use-booths
where they give away anything to win your trust and respect, or to make
a quick sale. I have learned how to cheat on short technical quizzes
(i.e. cheap off your neighbor who is a doctor) to win nice bags, fans,
pens...I have also been touched by the NGO section of the Conference
where different booths offer information on their focus and successes in
prevention, care, and treatment.
Each day, thousands of posters are alternated, and during a two hour
lunch period, the creator of the research poster stands by it and offers
insight into their project. I have made a few good contacts this way,
especially with a Portuguese artist who started a media campaign with
posters using superheroes in photos that advocate condom use to a 12-28
year old crowd. I videotaped an interview with him that I plan to
present to the UN in Cape Verde upon my return to see if I can get
funding to do a similar campaign using soccer stars or musicians (i.e.
rappers) that speak to the youth. Condoms are not advertised and
advocated enough in Cape Verde, so anything to get the word out would be
great. I also attended a Skills Building session on The Use of
Alternative Art Forms for HIV/AIDS Prevention. For three hours, we
composed a street play, and then had two presentations to each other.
The facilitators were musicians and NGO leaders from Indonesia. Lots of
drumming and dancing.
Tuesday, I attended another Skills Building workshop on Interactive
Teaching Methods for HIV/AIDS prevention, but it was disappointing.
Facilitators from an Indian NGO led it with PowerPoint slides, and I
already knew their techniques. I slipped out and caught other events
going on. Dinner was with three old friends from when I spent my junior
year in Spain with American Field Service (AFS). It made me realize the
support network that I lack in Cape Verde among friends. I yearn for
stronger ties with people that I have more in common with on different
levels.
Today, Wednesday, I spent the morning at the Olympic Stadium prepping
for the MTV broadcast of a show called ´Staying Alive: A Global Youth
Forum on HIV/AIDS.´ The audience is composed of about 30 youth from 25
countries, and we will ask questions to a panel of diverse guests,
including Clinton, Rupert Everett, Peter Piot (Director of UNAIDS), the
Archbishop of Nairobi, an official from the Brazilian Ministry of
Health, and a pharmaceutical rep. from GlaxoSmithKline. The discussion,
judging by todayfs questions posed by youth, looks to be heated and
interesting. I was literally blown away by the depth of HIV/AIDS and
current world event knowledge that my peers had at the screening, and
some were even under 15 years old. Orphans from South Africa that could
rattle off scientific figures and support their opinions with fact. I
may be chosen to ask a question to Clinton, so that should be
interesting if it all works out. I was hoping to somehow mention Peace
Corps, but it appears that I will just be focusing on his current
commitment to HIV/AIDS and his suggestions for current and future
administrations.
The afternoon was spent filming a drumming circle of 100 conference goes
who learned Zulu drumming for 2 hours as a method to instill knowledge,
commitment, and action. Tomorrow, they will drum again in the street at
4 p.m. with 200 drummers, but I believe I will be in the MTV Forum.
Major boo hoo because it was so great and I wish I had arrived earlier
and been able to participate today!
As far as my personal commitment to HIV/AIDS education, I have decided
to definintely apply for a Fulbright to Brazil this Fall for the
2003-2004 year. My roommate at the university campus, where they have
all scholarship recipients, is from Fortaleza, Brazil. She is a thirty
year old, married doctor specializing in infectious diseases and has
oodles of great contacts that can support my Fulbright project. I will
study and address the issue of the millions of US dollars entering
Ceara, Brazil from the National Health Institute that are not being used
for prevention and care because NGOs aren't organized enough to access
or use them. She played off of my project ideas and helped me to
formulate a project that would really benefit the HIV/AIDS area of
Fortaleza. The city even sounds great with cheap access to other parts
of the country and Miami, if I need to fly to the USA. I may try to fly
out for a week in early October before the Fulbright deadline to
solidify some contacts with NGOs and the university.
Friday marks the final day of the 14th International AIDS Conference,
and the closing speech will be given by Nelson Mandela and Bill Clinton.
Following the speeches, I will to a cocktail party with my Spanish
friend and her colleagues from Agilent Technologies. The weekend will be
spent in Tarragona where I spent my junior year of high school -- should
be a very reflective time. By next week, I will be back in my ribeira,
or river valley, bathing by candle light and thinking over my role as a
PCV in Africa.
Leaving my village always makes me feel so reflective about what I am
doing and where I am going. I have realized from the Conference that I
prefer living in a edevelopedf country because I have more access to
resources that improve the quality of my work and, most importantly, my
overall happiness. I look at the street performers, taste the amazing
ethnic cuisine, admire the antiquated architecture, watch the melting
pot of cultures stroll their babies on the Ramblas, and wonder why I am
not here instead if this makes me so happy. I feel that I am making a
difference in my village and others, but I must admit that being an
effective PCV and being happy go hand-in-hand. Without happiness from
the support of friends through email access or trips to other towns or
islands, I am lost in my own little world, milky way and full moon
illuminating six houses on a mountainside that I now call home. I hope
that in the coming months I will be able to take the knowledge that I
have gained from this Conference and create some positive action that
will continue long after I am gone.
