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This page lists the equipment you should have when fishing on Lake of the Woods. The equipment is
categorized by relative importance. For example, you NEED a rod and reel, but you don't
necessarily need a fish scale. |
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You obviously need a rod, but I fish with four setups, and I highly recommend getting more than one setup. I use two ultralite rigs for bass and walleye and two heavy rigs for northern pike and muskie. Having two of each means that you can have two types of lures available for each type of fishing (bass vs. pike/muskie), so you don't have to change lures as often as conditions change. I can't count the times I'd be fishing for bass as we trolled along the shore, and we'd come to some weeds and I'd switch immediately to a heavy rig to try and catch a big pike in the weeds. The switch only takes a few seconds and you're right back to fishing. Having multiple rigs makes you more efficient, but it's not required. I just like to think that I hit every possible hole along a shoreline stretch with the right tackle. For an ultralite rig, I recommend a 5-foot ultralite action (UL) rod. This will be a more flexible rod, and makes catching big bass quite fun, as they fight like hell. I've landed a 36" pike with my ultralite rig using 6lb test. I recommend a single piece rod rather than a two-piece, as the joint might loosen as you use it, and you don't want half your rod flying off when you cast. Rods that break down are easier to stow, but this isn't as big of an issue with a 5' ultralight. For the heavy rig, I recommend a 7-foot medium action (M) rod. These are much stiffer and longer than the ultralight, but you need that for big fish. I've caught many large bass with my heavy rig, and they still put up a mean fight (you can always turn your drag down to make it seem more challenging). Again, I suggest getting a single piece rod instead of a two-piece, but this might make hauling them around and storing them a bit inconvenient. Also, you'll have to match your rod to the type of reel you choose. Baitcaster reels mount to a rod that has a trigger-like hook protruding from the underside of the rod that you grip with your index finger when you cast. Spinning reels mount to a rod without any hook. Rods can cost you alot, but I use ~$25 or cheaper rods, and they work just fine. Save your money. |
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You'll also need a reel to go with each setup. There are
two common types of reels: baitcasting and spinning. There are also spincasting reels (like that
Zebco or Snoopy job you had as a tike), but I don't know much about them. The top image to the
left is a spinning reel while the two below it are both baitcasters. Baitcasting reels are what the pros use, but they take quite a while to master. Vic would use baitcasters for his heavy rig, but he'd use a couple of tiny ultralite spinning reels for his ultralite rigs. If you mess up with a baitcasting reel, you end up with a "birds nest" in the reel, and you end up sitting down for several minutes trying to fix the mess, and you often have to cut the line off. The benefit is that you can slow down a lure while it's in the air, which is handy when you overshoot your target. Also, these reels do not put twist in the line as you reel in a cast. Spinning reels will twist the line. Baitcasting reels can cost into the $200+ range, and I've not been brave enough to use one, but they have models as cheap as $10 out there. I don't know how much a decent reel will run you. If you want to be a show-off or just want to get the best tool for the job, go for it. Spinning reels are what I prefer. They're cheap, easy to use, and reliable. They do have some limitations compared to the baitcasting reels, but I don't see these as worth the bother. For example, the spinning reel will twist the line as it is wound onto the spool, and this can eventually cause knotting or improper lure behavior. The solution is to take your lure off, run the entire length of line off behind the boat as you troll along, and let the twist undo itself. We'd do this maybe twice during our week of fishing. Also, a spinning reel provides no mechanism for slowing a cast lure down if you overshoot. If you're heading for a tree, though, you can always set the bail which halts the output of line...not the same as slowing it down, but it saves you in a jam. I get two "normal sized" reels for my heavy rig, and two ultralite reels for my ultralite rigs. The tiny reels make it much more fun catching big bass. I've had good luck with Shimano big reels and Daiwa ultralite reels, but I imagine just about anything will do. My most expensive reel cost me $50. |
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You'll need somewhere to put your gear. The picture to the left is the model I have: Plano 777. It's a pretty big box, yet mine's nearly full. Cost me about $40. Has some very handy features. I've not yet seen anything I like better. | |
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We use 6lb test on our ultralites and 16-17lb test on our heavy rigs. Stren brand is sort of the long-trusted brand, but we discovered SpiderWire last trip, and the stuff is pretty amazing. Very stiff and very light/thin for a given weight. | |
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You'll need steel or titanium wire leaders. Bass and walleye
will not cut your line (walleye teeth are conical, so they don't have an edge to cut your line),
but pike and muskie have razor sharp edges on each tooth. You may be fishing for bass, but you'll
inevitably catch pike while you're at it. Though it is possible to catch pike without leaders (luck),
you'll lose alot of expensive lures without leaders. I've been using 4" black nylon coated leaders on my ultralite rigs as insurance against the accidental pike encounter, but I use 12" black nylon coated leaders for my heavy rigs. I've lost lures to big pike on my heavy rig using 6" leaders, and pike/muskie lures aren't cheap. The leaders come in different strengths just like fishing line does, and they sell titanium or steel leaders, the former being about 10x as expensive. The titanium leaders (in the picture to the left) are thinner, though. One big advantage to leaders is that they have a swivel clip on the end, so you don't have to tie a knot to swap out lures; you just unclip the leader and change the lure (and don't forget to re-clip the leader...I lost a lure that way!) Be sure to get clips like that shown in the picture. Older leaders have an inferior clip design that can be bent open if a heavy fish is on the end. |
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You absolutely, positively must have a map of Lake of the Woods in your boat. There are numerous hazards just under the water, and the lake is a maze. They sell "Fishing Hot Spots" brand maps at the lodge, so you can buy one out on the lake. These maps are waterproof and show you everything you need to know. | |
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You haven't a chance without bait. There are so many options out there, but I try to list the ones that work for me at this link. | |
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You'll need a waterproof jacket and pants, some water resistant or waterproof boots or shoes, and some warm, water resistant gloves. I got a PVC jacket/pants set for $30, but you can spend more for snazzier stuff. It needs to be large enough to cover many layers. It can get cold up there, and you want to be able to layer up if needed and keep those layers dry. Choose the boots/shoes for comfort; you'll be standing in them for a long time. I got a pair of Glacier Gloves which are waterproof neoprene and have instant access index finger and thumb (shown on the left). You don't want anything that will get soaked. | |
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Walleye, Pike and Muskie all have nasty teeth, and you'll not want to put your fingers into their mouths to get your lure. Also, if a bass gets hooked deep in its mouth, you'll need a tool to get the hooks out without hooking your own finger in the process. They sell hook extractors, but I've found that needle-nose pliers work about as well as anything. A Craftsman pair will do the job, but they make extra long pliers for anglers (shown left). | |
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You'll need a knife. The only common task for this is for cutting line, but knives are handy things. I use finger nail clippers for cutting line. You can always use your teeth to cut line, but a pair of finger nail clippers is pocket change. | |
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On sunny days, you'll obviously want some sunglasses, but polarized sunglasses offer an additional benefit in decreasing horizontal reflected glare which lets you see beneath the water. I see many of my strikes as they occur, and pike and muskie are notorious for following your lure for a long distance before striking, so being able to see what's going on under the water can make a difference in catching a large, cautious pike or muskie. Also, you can often see a fish take a lure before you feel it, so you can set the hook sooner. | |
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You can usually use the sun to determine north from south, but it's quite helpful to have a compass when navigating on the lake. | |
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Takes the guesswork out of it. You may think that you've got a 4lb smallie, but the scale verifies the guess. | |
| They don't put toilets on all 14,500 islands. A dozen wet wipes in a ziploc baggie is a good idea. A roll or partial roll (smaller) of toilet paper works, too. | ||
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You have to get your rods up to Canada safely, and they make long tube cases for this purpose. You can fit maybe a dozen in one case, and I have one, so I could transport some extras. The case shown to the left telescopes for easy storage. | |
| Bring a pen to mark your map. I have several notes on mine indicating good spots for different types of fish, where I caught a huge pike or muskie, etc. Get one that's permanent (won't rub off). | ||
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These gizmos are handy for getting unlost, navigating, and tagging where big fish were caught, and most have a built-in compass. Without one, it can take you ten minutes to figure out from islands and bouys where the hell you are sometimes. They're pricey, but cool. | |
| I've heard of people who forbid cameras on a fishing trip, but that ain't me. Capture the moments. The pictures I have of my trips bring back great memories from each trip, and they get my mouth watering for next year's trip. | ||
| I'll be smoking my fair share of cigars out on the lake. I can recommend some nice ($$$) ones, but I also plan on bringing a lot of cheap ones, too. They sell some good Cuban cigars at the lodge, but they range from $10-$20 each. | ||
| It's illegal to drink while you're fishing, but you can drink all you want at the lodge. They may not have your favorite brand, and they'll charge you a premium, but they have no problem with you bringing your own. Also, someone should bring a case of soda. | ||
