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by Theodore Fischer

L.A.'s image is dominated by "the industry" — the entertainment industry, that is — and its reputation for fast living and self-indulgence in many varied forms. What kind of secrets lurk beneath the glitter and the tinsel? While a few of could be duplicated in virtually any modern American city, most La La Land secrets have some connection with movie-star memorabilia, off-the-wall attractions, and only-in-L.A. fun and games.


Universal VIP Experience
Universal VIP guests board vintage San Francisco trolley cars to get close enough to actually touch secret places other visitors can only dream about. Off-limits locales include Courthouse Square from "Back to the Future," the allegedly haunted sound stage of the 1925 thriller "Phantom of the Opera," a hermetically sealed vault that stores 150,000 movies, a three-story warehouse containing over a million props, and a costume department that has amassed over 500,000 individual pieces since the 1940s. VIP guests, who pay about three times normal admission, also get to peek into the ADR (additional dialogue recording) studios and go to the front of the lines for rides in the Universal Studios amusement park.

Where: Universal Studios Hollywood, 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City
When: Up to four tours daily; call for schedule and reservations
Phone: (818) 622-5120
Web: http://www.universalstudios.com/globalnav/gnf.pl?url=http%3A//www.universalstudios.com/unicity2/parkinfo/tickets/index-ie.html
Cost: $125 per person, age 5 and up

Death Wishes
Los Angeles is a show-biz town that can turn just about anything into a form of entertainment. Even death.

Skeletons in the Closet, (323) 343-0760,
1104 N. Mission Rd., Los Angeles, http://www.lacoroner.com/
Located two floors above the morgue, the official gift shop of the L.A. County Coroner's Office dispenses souvenir towels, nightshirts and boxer shorts with chalk body outlines, plus coroner gear like body bags and toe tags. Profits go to a drunk-driving community awareness program.

Necromance, (323) 663-0122,
7220 Melrose Avenue., Hollywood, http://www.necromance.com/
This shop of little horrors deals in dead things — freeze-dried mice and rats, pickled frogs and sharks — and fragments of dead things, from coyote skulls to human fingers, all obtained legally. For those who prefer inorganic souvenirs of death and misery, Necromance carries old poison bottles, antiquated medical tools, mourning jewelry, and lotus slippers worn by women with bound feet.

Oh Heavenly Tour!, (323) 782-9652,
http://www.tourlandusa.com/
This tour hits death sites and final resting places of many extinguished stars — Valentino, Harlow, Bogie, Joplin, Belushi, among others — all via 1971 Cadillac hearse.

Shoot Sheet
Where's the action in L.A.? Rather, where's the lights, camera, action? The L.A. Film Office obligingly provides all the answers on a daily Shoot Sheet listing the address and timetable for every feature film, TV show, video and commercial location in town. There are indeed plenty to choose from — as many as 200 a day, 365 days a year. On weekdays free copies of the Shoot Sheet are available at the L.A. Film Office. Or download the information from the Entertainment Industry Development Corporation/L.A. Film Office Web site. Failing that, the best places to cruise are around Broadway and Main between First and Ninth Streets, ground zero for backdrops for gritty urban police dramas.

Where: Entertainment Industry Development Corporation/L.A. Film Office, 7083 Hollywood Blvd., 5th floor, Hollywood
When: Weekdays, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Phone: (323) 957-1000
Web: http://www.eidc.com/

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