The wired remote control connects to the converter case through a 9-pin
male - female connector similar to the serial mouse connector in a PC
and need no further explaining.
The car antenna's cable connects to the converter's 6 inch (15 cm.) female
extension , and converter output comes from an F connector at its case. The
supplied antenna extension bridges the
converter
and the car radio.
There are 3 coloured pigtails coming out from the remote's 9 pin connector
for supplying power ( 12 Volts , Negative
Ground
) to the converter.
BLACK : Connects to good Ground
RED : Connects mainly to switched on-off
output
of your car radio or
the feed of electrical powered antenna.
The idea is to have one switch turn both the radio and converter
ON and OFF.
The RED wire feeds power (250mA. current , 3W) to the converter.
On some CD receivers , particularly the Sony CDX-GT260 which
we tested the switched output to the antenna could only deliver
100 mA. which is way too small for feeding the converter . In
this
case we need to install a small external relay for increasing power to
the converter. Before installing the converter find out how much
current the switched on-off output can deliver. If it can
deliver an
extra 250 mA. to feed the converter in addition to feeding the
antenna relay then you are OK . Otherwise install a small relay and
a backward biased diode to protect the CD receiver's switched output.
GREEN : This one connects to the battery
or
the clock and feeds the
converter memory for remembering its last state after turning
the converter OFF. It draws very little power from battery,
( 0.5 microAmps )
If you don't care about memory you can connect it together
with RED
