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Comments on the low-carb craze

It's everywhere you turn these days. Low-carb this. Controlled-carb that. "Counting carbs? Try this!" Why are so many consumers counting carbs now instead of fat grams? Why is there so much controversy surrounding the newly charged low-carb craze?

The theory behind controlling carbs...A method to their madness...Where the science gets sticky...What are you eating, anyway?...Conclusion

The theory behind controlled carb

While the eating plans may differ greatly, the introductory chapters of the low-carb diet books are almost identical in the facts they present to the reader. Eating a high-carbohydrate meal causes blood sugar to rise dramatically. This, in turn, leads to increased production of the hormone insulin to reclaim homeostasis (balance within the body). Unfortunately, this can subsequently become a sharp drop in blood sugar, which can lead to false hunger. Among other things, insulin also promotes the storage of fat once glycogen stores are filled and the body does not have an immediate need for glucose running around the bloodstream. (Of course, this is only if you happen to be overeating to begin with.) These books take that bit of information and run with it, claiming that carbohydrates, not fat, are the true source of weight gain. Each has its own theory about the "correct" proportion of carbohydrate in the diet; some are more forgiving than others.

You say the brain and heart need a steady supply of glucose? No problem, your liver can easily convert dietary protein or fat into blood glucose by an amazing process called gluconeogenesis (literally "making new glucose"). You ask, "Shouldn't I still limit fat intake?" Well, that depends on which book you are reading. Barry Sears, master of the Zone diet, still recommends keeping dietary fat intake to around thirty percent of calories. On Atkins or Protein Power, however, dietary fat can make up as much as a whopping sixty to seventy percent of your daily energy. They may further claim that there is no need to worry about saturated fat or cholesterol intake as long as you keep those pesky carbs out of the equation. "What about too much protein?" According to most of these plans, there is no such thing. Heck, some even argue that most Americans are actually protein-deprived!

A method to their madness

While a little "out there" in many cases, it's not all complete nonsense. The extreme low fat diets which were the craze of the 70's, 80's, and early 90's were just that: extreme. Cutting fat doesn't always mean cutting calories, and a diet too low in fat leaves open the possibility of essential fatty acid deficiency, not to mention a lack of satiety -- the egghead's word for "feeling satisfied after a meal." Also, anyone following the Standard American Diet (appropriately abbreviated as SAD) gets most of their dietary carbohydrate in the form of white flour and sugar. Refined carbohydrates definitely wreak havoc on blood sugar, as the diet books warn, and are essentially empty calories with little or no real nutritive value.

(Allow me to step up on a soapbox for a moment: Please shout it from the rooftops that avocados, nuts, and olives are infinitely more healthy than white flour or high-fructose corn syrup!)

A few books bring into play the glycemic index, or GI, a measure of how quickly an individual food raises blood sugar. Some take it a step further and tell you how to calculate glycemic load, or how much a normal portion of food will raise blood sugar. All of these diets, thankfully, emphasize the need for green leafy vegetables in the diet. And most add, somewhat grudgingly, that whole-grain products are okay for long-term weight maintenance.

Other books bring up a good point about allergens. Even if you do not have what the conventional medical community considers a true food allergy, it is very possible to have a hidden food intolerance, especially to omnipresent food staples such as dairy, wheat and other gluten grains, soy, or corn. (If you suspect you may have a food intolerance, try an elimination diet and then slowly add back in the potential allergenic foods one at a time.)

Most controlled-carb programs concede that in the long run, you need to eat primarily from whole food sources. Barry Sears in particular has since recanted on his strict 30-40-30 ratio and said that the essential idea is to fill two thirds of your plate with fruits, vegetables, and a small amount of whole grains. (Funny, that sounds like what physicians and nutritionists have been emphasizing for decades.)

Where the science gets sticky

Again, very low fat regimens which place little or no restriction on sugar or calories are extreme, and very difficult to follow in the long run. I agree wholeheartedly that the USDA food pyramid needs some serious revision. But does that really mean we should be swinging the pendulum in the complete opposite direction?

By labeling carbohydrates as the bad guys, the focus shifts to favoring animal foods (meats, fish, eggs, and cheese) over plant foods. Stricter phases of certain plans do not even allow for most varieties of fruit or beans. Can you honestly say that a beefsteak is better for you than lentils or a fresh mango? By restricting the amount of plant foods, unfortunately, it also means you are restricting your sources of dietary fiber, vitamin C, antioxidants, and a whole host of phytonutrient chemicals which are protective factors against everything from cancer to heart disase.

While the body can indeed convert dietary fat or protein into glucose, it does so only at considerable expense to the kidneys and liver, which are forced to work overtime in order to convert amino acids into glucose. When too much protein is consumed, the kidneys need to deal with the excess nitrogen by increasing urea output, which means more urination, dehydration, and depletion of the body's calcium stores (i.e., bone loss which could lead to osteoporosis). Atkins' diet followers are constantly urged into "ketosis," which, while a natural adaptive mechanism for coping with inadequate glycogen stores, can cause frightful buildup of toxins, loss of body protein stores (i.e. muscle), and tremendous strain on the liver and kidneys.

The books regarding glycemic index and glycemic load do have a point about being careful about the types of carbohydrates you consume, but too often their claims about "good" and "bad" carbs are based solely on a food's glycemic effect. One, an individual food's glycemic index or GI can vary greatly depending how (and how long) it is cooked, prepared, processed, or even ripened. Two, by that logic alone, a person should eschew watermelon or carrots in favor of french fries or full fat ice cream. How often do you eat only one type of food at a meal? The fact is, you can easily make for a moderate glycemic load by balancing low and high GI foods within the same meal. Some books remember to mention that, but not all.

Any claim that Americans are protein-deprived must be taken with a grain of salt. It's true that some amounts of protein and fat at each meal can help balance blood sugar levels. But especially in Western cultures, it isn't lack of protein that we should be concerned about. Protein RDA's made by the U.S. Department of Agriculture are made with a built-in buffer, just as any other RDA. The World Health Organization emphasizes that a diet of around 5-8% of calories from protein, as long as total calories are sufficient, is more than adequate for the average person. (Athletes need perhaps 8-10% of daily calorie needs from protein, which is still met easily without the need for meat at every meal.) And more and more studies are showing the health hazards of a diet too high in protein, particularly from animal sources. As with all aspects of nutrition, the key is to strike a balance and moderation, not claim absolutes of "good" or "bad."

The most ironic thing of all is that even if so-called "low impact carb" meals don't raise blood sugar, they still cause the release of insulin into the bloodstream. Actually, overeating anything --- carbs, protein, or fat --- can unfavorably raise blood insulin levels. So don't think that skipping the spaghetti means that you can then indulge in as many meatballs as you'd like.

What are you eating, anyway?

Physicians and nutritionists alike balk at the prospect of urging clients to indulge freely in cholesterol and saturated fat at the expense of "high-carb" but nontheless nutritious foods such as whole grains, potatoes, or even corn or peas. Many low carb diets have the vegetarian community up in arms because they advocate even more consumption of animal products. (While Barry Sears has offered The Soy Zone, he still urges readers to add fish to the menu.) Not only that, but the low-carb craze has all too often taken real food off the menu.

The fact that the diet books advocate "whole food sources" of nutrients doesn't seem keep their companies from manufacturing and marketing their own brands of meal-replacement bars, powders, and shakes. And carbohydrate-conscious consumers can have a field day in the supermarket with low- or controlled-carb versions of everything from bread to pasta to breakfast cereal to vegetarian entrees, and even milk or peanut butter. At first glance, this seems innocent enough; they miss their bread and pasta, so what's wrong with providing a suitable alternative? The problem is that these "foods" are just as refined and unnatural as the conventional foods they are supposed to be replacing; sometimes even more so.

My favorite example of this is the new "low carb peanut butter." Real peanut butter (where the ingredients are peanuts, oil, and possibly salt) is naturally "low carb," a great source of monounsaturated fats (the "good fats"), and as natural as you can get outside of raw peanuts. It's when your favorite brand name company adds all the sugar and hydrogenated oils that the health factor drops significantly. The low-carb peanut spreads not only contain the usual trans-fats, but now artificial sweeteners as well. Yummy.

And this is typical of what manufacturers do to make foods suitable to the carbo-phobe. They add cream, oil, soy or whey protein isolates, wheat gluten, oat fiber, aspartame, sucralose, hydrolyzed collagen (gelatin)...the ingredients list grows. How can it be argued that such an item is more healthy than you than, say, a banana and some almonds? Just because something is edible does not mean that it can be called food.

Conclusion

You lose weight on low carb diets because, in general, you are taking in less energy than you are expending. Some programs, if you sit down and calculate the calories, can be borderline starvation diets. Of course, you are also putting yourself into ketosis, depleting your glycogen stores and therefore losing water, potentially depriving yourself of fiber and vitamin C, and inviting a whole host of problems by consuming horrific amounts of saturated fat and cholesterol.

The definition of a "diet" is what one eats on a regular basis. But it has instead come to mean something one follows for the short-term, just long enough to lose x pounds, go back to their normal diet and habits, regain the weight (and then some), and try the next new fad that comes along. John Robbins laments that he strongly objected to his publisher giving his first book the title Diet For a New America, because he hates the word "diet" and its connotations, and is disgusted with the weight-loss industry. Interestingly enough, his first book wasn't even intended to be a weight-loss program. He discussed the personal and ecological benefits of a "compassionate" plant-based diet. But ironically, many people who read his book followed his suggestions about healthy lifestyle changes, and found out that they lose excess weight and were much healthier overall.

Change your lifestyle, get healthy. What a concept!

Added 3/28/04, revised 3/15/05

Books "reviewed" for this article included Dr. Atkin's New Diet Revolution, Enter the Zone, The South Beach Diet, The Glucose Revolution, Sugar Busters, the Paleo Diet, and Protein Power.

E-mail ekeraminas@hotmail.com

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