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Book Extract
THE LAST WILD TIGERS
by Peter Matthiessen

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The South China tiger, Panthera tigris amoyensis, was formerly abundant in South China's temperate upland forests, with a population estimated by Chinese authorities at 4,000 in the late 1940s. By the early 1950s, extensive forest clearing for agriculture had destroyed much habitat, and "pelt harvest" of the tiger for the fur trade increased. In 1959, under Mao Tse-tung, eradication campaigns against these "pests" were encouraged by government bounties, resulting in uncontrolled hunting, not only for the skin but for blood, bones, organs, and other body parts used in traditional medicines. By the early 1960s the South China tiger had declined to an estimated 1,000 animals; a decade later it was listed as endangered.   

Today its wide range has been reduced to three isolated areas in south-central China, where small and scattered populations are said to persist along the mountainous borders between provinces. Two of these regions include parts of Jiangxi Province, where in the winter of 1993, on a crane expedition, I made a five-hour journey overland from the capital, Nanchang, to Poyang Lake, near the Yangtze River, and also two flights over the region at low altitude and in clear weather, which provided a good look at this rough, mountainous region. One can only hope that Jiangxi is not typical of the last tiger habitat in China, for it appeared fatally battered and denuded.   

According to official Chinese estimates, more than 150 amoyensis survive. But some Western authorities now fear that as few as 20 to 30 are left, and even this low figure may be optimistic, since no one knows of any recent sightings. Even if not already extinct, the South China race seems destined to become the fourth to vanish in our lifetime.   

 The tiger subspecies to the south of amoyensis (and the one most recently recognized by scientists as a distinct form) is the Indochinese tiger, Panthera tigris corbetti. Smaller and darker than the South China race, it ranges widely from eastern Burma, now known as Myanmar, through Laos, Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia, and Malaysia. Present estimates of the Indochinese tiger's population range from 600 to 900; but little is known about its distribution, and recent surveys of Indochina's vast, empty forests by Wildlife Conservation Society biologists George Schaller and Alan Rabinowitz are not encouraging. According to Schaller, local people have set snares "from the mountain-top all the way down into the valley," and Rabinowitz agrees that "the people are literally wiping out everything-sambar, barking deer, even young elephants. The forests look good, but there are no tigers because there is nothing for them to eat. In these areas it is not the tiger that is being killed directly but the prey."   

Much the same can probably be said of the rest of Indochina. In Myanmar, scarcely 1 percent of the country is protected, although 45 percent remains forested; and even where guerrilla warfare has not prevented the few forest guards from entering the forests, they are not permitted to arrest poachers. In the other countries, large areas have been set aside as reserves and parks, but none of these nations try to control the use of firearms. The ill-paid guards are imperiled by well-armed poachers and even by local people, who perceive them as enemies who interfere with their traditional harvest in the forest. According to Rabinowitz, "no more than an estimated two hundred and fifty adult tigers are currently in Thailand," and "all Thailand's tiger populations are in danger of further decline." The same--or worse--can probably be said of the populations elsewhere in corbetti's range.   

Little is known of the tiger race found less than 50 miles across the Malacca Straits in Sumatra, the last sanctuary of tigers in Indonesia. Sumatra is the world's sixth-largest island, more than 1,000 miles long, though far less populous than nearby Java and Bali. Poor agricultural soils put off the destruction of its forests until after World War II. But in the 1960s the conversion of forestland was greatly expanded by timber concessions, rubber and palm-oil plantations, and oil fields, and the habitat loss was compounded by hunting and trapping. Today the Sumatran tiger, Panthera tigris sumatrae, is largely confined to the southwestern mountains and remote northern regions, which include the largest and best of the reserves known as Gunung Leuser, a complex of about 7,927 square kilometers where 20 to 100 tigers are said to persist. (The numbers spread is an indication of how little is actually known about sumatrae.)   

At a conservation workshop in 1992, some 35 Indonesian forestry and conservation officials assigned to Sumatran parks and protected areas--the majority of the tiger professionals in Sumatra--were asked how many had ever laid eyes on a wild tiger. Four raised their hands. How many had seen tiger tracks? Perhaps half of them. How many with raised hands had seen tracks 10 or more times? Half the hands went down. (Since tigers commonly use roads and trails, leaving big pug-marks, this informal poll was even more ominous than it may appear.)   

A recent report by the Wildlife Conservation Society claimed that about 650 Sumatran tigers may survive, and one hopes, without much confidence, that this is true. Hundreds of stuffed specimens adorn Sumatran government offices and private homes, in addition to the hundreds shipped abroad. Between 1975 and 1992 South Korea alone imported 3,720 kilograms of dried tiger bone from Indonesia (in effect, Sumatra, since the tiger was already extinct in Java and Bali), or somewhere between 338 and 620 tigers over an 18-year period; between 1991 and 1993 South Korea imported 475 kilograms of bone, or about 20 tigers annually. In Singapore a well-tanned Sumatran tiger skin brings about $2,000; a tiger penis fetches $100. Small wonder, then, that according to one recent report, "the Sumatran form is close to extinction in the wild."   

In 1936, when the Sikhote-Alin International Biosphere Reserve was established, on the Siberian coast north of Vladivostok, perhaps 50 Amur tigers were left in the wild--too few, some said, to provide the genetic variation critical to the long-term survival of the race. Yet everywhere throughout its range, Panthera tigris has shown itself to be a marvelously resourceful and adaptable animal, and during World War II, with most of the hunters off shooting at other human beings, it made a small recovery in numbers. By the mid-1980s, the wild population was thought to approach 450 animals, including 250 breeding adults--an exciting recovery that justified hope for reestablishing a viable population, assuming the tigers had avoided long-term damage from inbreeding. But with the implosion of the Soviet Union, the Amur country was laid wide open to the international poaching that was destroying the last tigers everywhere. Within a few years, more than a third had been destroyed, and once again the Amur, or Siberian, tiger, Panthera tigris altaica, was in serious danger of extinction. In this emergency, a group of Russian researchers and U.S. wildlife biologists founded the Siberian Tiger Project, with headquarters in Terney, a fishing port north of Vladivostok.   

In June 1992, not long after the project's fieldwork had begun, I joined the researchers at Terney and accompanied them on treks into the forest. In the beautiful early--summer taiga, I saw fresh tiger sign--pugmarks and scent posts and scat--and joined in the reconnaissance of the territory of a tigress that had been captured, radiocollared, and released two days before. Using telemetry, we approached the stream where she lay in hiding; as we drew near, the tigress rose and began moving, changing her radio signal to a rapid beep, and my heart with it, for this was my first experience with a tiger in the field. According to Maurice Hornocker, an eminent authority on the great cats and a codirector of the project, her sharp eyes were probably watching us through those silent trees, and certainly she could hear us. Knowing she was intent upon our presence, the striped fur of her harlequin mask rising and falling with her fetid, meaty breath as she stared and listened, was exhilarating, to say the very least.   

In January 1996 I returned to the Russian Far East by way of Vladivostok, where I was met by Siberian Tiger Project biologists Howard Quigley and Dale Miquelle. Next day we flew up the coast to the new timber port at Plastun and from there drove north along the coast road through what is now the Sikhote-Alin reserve, in the heart of tiger country. During the next fortnight, taking part in air monitoring and snow tracking of the animals that had been captured, radio-collared, and released since my first visit, four years before, gave me a chance to compare the prospects of altaica with those of the other tiger races.   

The Amur tiger, generally regarded as the largest of the world's great cats, once ranged widely in Siberia, from Lake Baikal east to Korea. Today it is almost entirely confined to the Russian Far East, in the Sikhote-Alin Mountains. Officially, it is still reported to exist in contiguous North Korea and northeastern China, but the biologists and researchers of the Siberian Tiger Project mostly dismiss these remnant animals as border wanderers.   

The Sikhote-Alin, 600 miles north and south, with a very low human population, is the largest single region of potentially good habitat in all of Panthera tigris's modern range. If its large reserves can be linked by wooded corridors across the mined and timbered forestlands, and if its prey species can be protected from overhunting, the Sikhote-Alin might offer a better future for the tiger than any Asian region except possibly the huge Ganges-Brahmaputra delta, called the Sunderbans, which is generally inhospitable to humans. On the other hand, the population densities of the tiger's prey species, poached relentlessly since firearms became generally accessible a few years ago, are now so low that the carrying capacity for this region may have already been reached. Few authorities give the Amur tiger much chance of long-term survival into the next century, but having observed and listened to the Americans and Russians involved in the Siberian Tiger Project, and the local people, too, my own views are more optimistic. Low prey densities and small numbers notwithstanding--according to a 1996 census, about 330 adults and 101 subadults--this may well be the most stable tiger population left on earth.   

The vanished tiger races, never studied, might have told us much about the phylogeny of tigers--the origin and evolution of the species. Tigers and lions both descend from a jaguarlike Panthera ancestor, but although the lion was widespread in western Asia and southern Europe as well as Africa, no tiger fossils have been found outside of Asia. Among the earliest were skulls and bones from the late Pliocene and the early Pleistocene, discovered in China and also in Java and on the north coast of Siberia. These Ice Age tigers were larger than the modern races, among which only the Amur approaches them m size.   

In the Pleistocene the species was widely distributed, crossing land bridges to Japan, and the geographic region where the species originated is still debated. While some authorities now suggest a southern Asian origin, most adhere to a "northern hypothesis." According to that theory, the early tiger dispersed westward to the Caspian Sea and south into India and Southeast Asia more than a million years ago when most of central Asia was covered in forest. When sea levels receded during the Pleistocene to expose the continental shelf that linked the Malayan peninsula with the East Indies, the tiger reached Sumatra, Java, and Bali. At some unknown time it vanished from Japan, and in later ages, for want of water, it withdrew from the arid Himalayan rain shadow of Tibet and central Asia. (Though the tiger can adapt to cold, it cannot survive in arid country.) But all around this great desert ellipse, its range appears to have been almost continuous.   

As the earth warmed after the Pleistocene, the dispersing tigers spread through Asia, losing their long-haired pelage and heavy, tufted paws. Until regional populations were cut off from one another by climatic changes, all Asian tigers were essentially the same animal; yet the only one that remained comparable in size to the Amur race was the Indian tiger, which needed to deal with the large prey animals of the subcontinent. In the tropics, with mostly smaller prey, the cumbersome size of the northern tiger proved nonadaptive. The South China, Indochinese, and Caspian races became smaller than the Amur and the Indian, and the three island races of the equatorial tropics were smaller still.   

Tiger dimensions adapt readily to prey size, which is generally (though not invariably) smaller in island fauna. The extinct Japanese tiger of the Pleistocene was approximately the same size as the Balinese race, which seems to have been the smallest of modern tigers. According to tiger authority John Seidensticker, curator of mammals at the National Zoo, in Washington, D.C., the original habitat of the island tigers of Indonesia appears to have been the great river swamps, where the tiger evolved as the largest predator in a chain of life whose essential members were deers and wild boar.   

In modern times, Bali's rich volcanic slopes encouraged an intensive wet-rice agriculture, but its tigers were found mostly in the high western forests. So far as is known, no Balinese tiger was ever captured, though eight were killed for museums in the 1930s. Collecting specimens from a small population hastened the extinction of the race, and the Bali Barat Game Reserve, created in western Bali in 1941, came too late to help it. In the 1960s and '70s, much plantation forest was cut down, by which time, in all likelihood, the Balinese tiger, Panthera tigris balica, was already gone. Seidensticker tells me that in July 1978 he spoke with a local man who claimed to have observed a tiger one month earlier as it drank from a spring at the base of a great ficus tree shading his temple; in 1979 a Bali newspaper printed reports that at least six tigers still survived in the Bali Barat reserve. I, too, was told that, on a journey there last winter en route from Siberia to India, and the legend seemed persuasive enough when I gazed at those mysterious, high, dark mountain forests in the distance. Pressed a little, however, the genial Balinese agreed that their tiger was gone.   

Departing Bali en route to India, the aircraft passed along the northern coast of Java, a mysterious and striking dark massif of 20 or more volcanic cones. The once-abundant Javan tiger was bountied and killed throughout the 19th and early 20th centuries, and not until the 1920s and '30s was a system of reserves established. The few captive animals reported in zoos and collections before World War II were dispersed during the war, and none survive. By 1945 the Javan tiger, Panthera tigris sondaica, was mostly gone from all but the most inaccessible regions of the island, as much of the monsoon forest was converted to teak plantations and rubber trees and coffee.   

Java is one of the world's most populous places, aswarm with 120 million people, and this virulent population growth--with forest loss and intensive cultivation--made survival impossible for the tiger. By the mid-1960s, when civil unrest spread across the island, the Javan tiger survived in only three of the reserves; in the same period one of its main prey species, the ruse deer, was reduced severely by disease. By 1970 the last four or five animals were confined to a rugged area on the coast, known as Meru-Betiri, which was made a park in 1972. The last good sighting of sondaica was made in 1976, and it is presently assumed that the Javan race died out in the 1980s, despite the local legends to the contrary.   

Not surprisingly, all three of the first races to go extinct--the Balinese, the Javan, and the Caspian--were located at the extremities of tiger range and were cut off from the main body of the species. Perhaps even before the advent of human beings, the Caspian tiger, Panthera tigris virgata, lived 1,000 miles or more from its westernmost kin, in Siberia, and was cut off from the Indian and South China populations by high mountains and deserts. The Caspian tiger is the exotic creature seen scowling and skulking in ancient Persian art--the rather small, dark race of the Transcaucasus and the shores of the great inland seas of western Asia. A specimen killed in the Transcaucasus in 1932 was the last one seen until 1964, when one or more were sighted near Lenkoran, on the southwest shore of the Caspian Sea near the Iranian border. In the early 1970s a US. researcher surveying the Caspian shore with camera traps found leopards but no evidence of tigers, and a survey of Iran's remote mountains between 1973 and 1976 had the same result. The Lenkoran tigers, it appears, were the last of this subspecies ever to be seen, and today the Caspian tiger is presumed extinct.   

One day last April in Washington, D.C., John Seidensticker was kind enough to give Belinda Wright and me a close look at two of his Sumatran tigers in their cages beneath the exhibit pens at the National Zoo. Perhaps two and a half feet at the shoulder, this last representative of Indonesia's island tigers is little more than half the size of the Amur or Indian tigers, with a smaller head and shoulders relative to its weight. The ground color of the Sumatran tiger is comparatively darker, rather tawny (the Javan and Balinese forms were darker still), and its underside is a dirty, gray white, as opposed to the bright white of its northern kin. Its stripes are narrower and more closely spaced and may be spotted at the tips, and it is oddly big footed, like a toy tiger. The watchful male, slung out on his hard bench, had his head close to the bars. When I peered too closely, our intent visages scarcely a yard apart, the tiger closed his agate eyes and opened his jaws in a silent, yawning snarl. The face of sumatrae is relatively narrow, with a pronounced white ruff--characteristics that might camouflage its bulk as it approaches, Seidensticker suggests, since the body does not extend outside the ruff when seen head on.   

Seidensticker remains mildly skeptical of the current separation of the tiger into eight races, since the status of these subspecies is still argued--the Indochinese tiger, Panthera tigris corbetti, was only "created" three decades ago--and because, in more than one pair in the group, the alleged differences seem problematic at best. In his opinion, "viable population" might be a more useful designation than "geographic race," since--in a creature that seems equally adaptable to dry upland forest and tropical rainforest, monsoon mangrove habitat and Himalayan foothills, northern taiga and the reedbeds of Asia's inland seas--size, external appearance, and behavior tend to be more influenced by climate and ecology than by geographic range. Like most of the 36 species of cat, the tiger is exceptionally flexible, adapting to a range of habitats perhaps unmatched by any other large mammal except Homo sapiens.   

Yet even if all necessary steps to protect the last wild tigers are undertaken, it may not be enough. As Seidensticker says, traditional conservation-management techniques for tigers have failed or are failing, even where there has been increased protection. Effective restoration will require corrective and preventive management, to insure that mere benign neglect--as in Java and Bali, where the tiger went extinct despite a system of protected reserves--does not permit some fatal imbalance to occur before it can be properly understood.   

Gazing into a nearby cage at a great white tiger, the last of a celebrated "albino line" from India, we fell silent for a while, considering that stunted future in which the mysteries of wild tigers will be gone and the only tigers left on earth will be these listless specimens cooped up in zoos. How excited I would have been, I thought, to have glimpsed one of those Persian tigers, scowling from the reeds near Lenkoran on the shore of the Caspian Sea.