Teaching
As in teaching humans, teaching dogs can also be an art. To take teaching dogs to that higher level, below are some keys concepts:
TIMING
The timing of corrections AND praise (reinforcement) MUST be impeccable. It is TOO late to correct or praise if the dog is not doing what you want to reinforce. Reinforcement MUST happen AS the behavior is happening. If Poochie has pooped on the floor and then you find him chewing a bone, it is way too late to correct for pooping on the floor!
CONSISTENCY
If you do not want Poochie on the couch, then he should NEVER be allowed on the couch. If you do not want your dog to jump up on you when you are dressed for work, then he also should not be allowed to jump up on you when you are wearing jeans. Dogs do not understand sometimes or maybe. They only understand always or never! If you want your dog to lay down and he doesn't, follow through by showing him what you expect. The best way to lose your dog's respect is by not following through on commands.
PRAISE
Too often we focus on correction with our dogs, and never say a word when things are going well. If Poochie is lying quietly on the floor chewing a bone, tell him what a GOOD DOG he is! Even if you have had a difficult time getting your dog to come back to you, being angry will only make it worse (see related article). You need to lose the anger and let him know he is good for coming (through clenched teeth, resisting the urge to strangle him!). After all, he DID come to you. Dog training class instructors have a MUCH more difficult time getting dog owners to PRAISE their dogs than they do in getting them to correct their dogs!
FIRM
TELL your dog, don't ASK him (see related article on tone of voice)! If he doesn't comply, then SHOW him! However, FIRM does NOT mean MEAN!
FUN
Break up training with energetic games. Learning becomes boring and stressful if ideas are drilled. Games give everyone a stress break!
FAIR
HELP your dog to understand what you want from him. Once he has a good understanding of what you expect, then you can correct and show him the appropriate behavior.
When teaching, break each exercise down to small portions. For example, when teaching STAY, the dog cannot be left while the handler walks across the room. Instead, the handler, after giving the stay command steps directly in front of the dog, standing toes to toes, and counts to FIVE ONLY. Then the handler then returns to the dog and PRAISES. Corrections and teaching are done as needed. The distance between dog and handler can be increased as the dog begins to understand what "stay" means. Also, the length of time the handler is away from the dog can be increased as the dog learns what "stay" means. As the dog becomes steadier and has a clearer understanding of "stay", distractions can be added, like other dogs, kids playing, a toy squeaking or a ball in motion, or other distractions (this is where the handler can be creative!). Think of distractions as a pop quiz!
Often if a dog does not understand an exercise, it is because it was taught too fast and with too much assumption on the handler's part. The exercise needs to be broken down into small increments and re-taught.
"SIT" is the foundation for all obedience. All other commands, learning and control branch from this one simple exercise. Even for those who don't care to teach "formal" obedience, "SIT" will still be a valuable tool.
Consider what happens when you take your dog for a walk. Going for a walk is usually very exciting for a dog. Often, he will jump and prance and perhaps bark while you are getting the leash and collar. By this time, the dog has gone so crazy that applying the leash and collar becomes all but impossible. He is in a vicious cycle of "doggie brainlessness"! Now, try to put a firm "SIT" command to this wildness before it gets out of control: "Spot SIT!". Use firm, short words (DON'T "ASK"). Follow through by showing the dog what you want if s/he doesn't comply immediately. Don't forget to praise for a nice sit - even after you have made him do it. The sit will help to - as I like to put it - stuff his brains back into his ears. In other words, make him a THINKING rather than a REACTING animal. Insist that the leash and collar will not go on a crazy dog. Your dog must get the message: "You must "SIT" before you go anywhere!". After you accomplish THAT, you want to attempt to GO for that walk!
Now consider a dog who drags you toward the door, gasping and choking the entire way, jumps at the door, and rushes through the door as soon as you open it. This dog has no respect for his owner. Instead of allowing all the pulling and choking, insist again on a "SIT" by the door, along with a "STAY". YOU will always be the one to go through the doorway FIRST (leaders ALWAYS go first - more on that in a later article). After you have gone first, a cheerful release word "OK" signals that Spot may follow. If you must lock the door, then another SIT should be required while the dog calmly waits to start the walk.
Jumping up on you or other people can also be controlled using "SIT". We can teach "OFF" (or another word, if you wish), but we must also give your dog an alternative for jumping - one that will bring praise. And that magic "something" is SIT.
When your dog becomes excited or appears worried during a trip to the veterinarian or groomer (or wherever, for that matter), "SIT" can be the key to calm your dog and, again, get him to THINK rather than REACT.
Many trainers believe (and I believe this to be true also) that there is no free lunch for dogs. In other words, "You, Spot, don't get attention for free. You don't get your meal or treats for free, etc.". The simplest thing to have a dog do as "payment" is for these things is "SIT" and, perhaps sometimes, "STAY". Ultimately, this isn't a big payment, just a calm show of respect for you, as the owner and leader.
So, practice "SIT" - quick, small, fun sits to start. Then practice longer sits, or sits not so close to you (ON the leash helps you to reinforce the command if the SIT doesn't happen). Above all, "SIT" should always be praised and your dog must know that, in any unfamiliar situation, "SIT" will always make you happy. That is how you start to get respect and obedience from one simple command - "SIT"!
"OFF"
As in teaching any new behavior, a command needs to be attached to the action. "OFF" is my choice, because "no" is already said TOO often
Before any OFF training begins, the SIT command must be trained and understood. Sit is the foundation for control and leadership. Sit will then be the choice for the dog to make instead of jumping, or after OFF.
The least confrontational way to deal with OFF is to turn and/or back away from the dog when he jumps on you, using the OFF command, then SIT. Always PRAISE when the dog makes the correct choice.
Most jumping dogs can be seen before they make contact. Try raising a knee in the air BEFORE the dog connects with you, and use the OFF command. Jumping on you will be difficult and uncomfortable because your knee will be in the way, and some of the more exuberant dogs will hit your knee and find it unpleasant. If you raise your knee AS the dog jumps on you, your timing will be off, and your dog may be hurt. I don't recommend this method because it may be too forceful for some dogs and may cause injury, it puts you off balance and is not a nice gesture for other people (especially kids) to see.
My favorite method to teach "OFF" is to have a training collar on the dog and put him in a sit in front of you with his leash attached to the collar. Let the leash dangle onto the floor, and firmly step on the leash where it angles onto the floor. "Set up" the training by making the jumping inviting (talking cute, "eating" a treat, etc). When the dog tries to jump, he will self correct WHILE you are telling him "OFF! SIT!". Do this several times in a row, and most dogs will start to get the idea after the 2nd or 3rd try. Some of the more exuberant dogs will seem to be dense about it, and have to be reminded a little firmer. This method needs to be done a couple times a day, for several days or more. Each time you practice, the dog will remember quicker. After you think the dog understands what "OFF" means, you can then do the same thing with the leash, but actually act like you are inviting him to jump: tap on your chest with both hands, talking cute - "Do you want to come up?" and then reinforce with "NO, OFF, SIT!". Be careful you don't praise so enthusiastically that you inadvertantly encourage your dog to jump up again.
Two people are needed for this method: one to handle the leash and dog, and one to "encourage" the dog to jump. The dog needs to have on his training collar and leash. The Handler and dog approach the helper, and the helper encourages the dog to jump. The Handler MUST have good timing, and needs to give a quick "pop" on the leash and collar with the command "OFF!" (the tug should be in a downward fashion, in the opposite direction of the helper). NO PULLING the leash - the handler must TUG & RELEASE ("pop") the leash and collar. If done correctly, the dog's paws NEVER touch the helper! SIT should come after OFF, and the praise comes from the Handler, NOT the helper. This should be done 5 to 6 times a session, depending on the dog.
The last method is the person the dog jumps on takes each forepaw in each hand when the dog jumps, holds them, and walks INTO the dog, repeating "OFF, OFF!", and the dog will roll into a sit or walk clumsily backwards. If necessary (ONLY IF), the paws can be squeezed and/or the rear toes can be lightly stepped on.
"But what about when someone comes to the door?", you say. Have a leash and training collar readily accessible by each entry door. Call out the door: "Just a minute! I'm training my dog not to jump!" I'm sure the people on the other side of the door will be more than happy to wait! Then use the moment as a training opportunity! Or, if you don't have time, crate the dog. But remember no teaching happens to a crated dog!
Consistency and praise for appropriate behavior is always the best method.
Crate Training Information
Like any other form of dog training, crate training requires time and patience. Crates are made of rigid plastic, heavy wire mesh or aluminum. They must be well ventilated and sturdy. The crate should be big enough for your pet to stretch out flat on his side and he should be able to stand comfortably and turn around inside his crate.
A primary use for a crate is as a housebreaking aid. Dogs do not like to soil where they sleep, so they will naturally "hold it" for as long as they can while in a crate. If a puppy or dog is removed from the crate and taken outside at age appropriate intervals, he will learn that the place to use the bathroom is outside. The crate can also be used during a puppy's "chewy" phase (which often lasts until they are two years old) if the puppy chews the floor or walls and therefore, can't be left in a "puppy-proofed" room.
Place the crate in a corner of a busy room, such as the family room or kitchen. Your pet will not feel isolated or that he is being punished if he is around other people. Provide safe chew toys in the crate.
Begin crate training by putting your pet in the crate for small increments of time. Leave him in the crate for 10, 15 and eventually for 30 minutes of time. Alternate crate time with periods of play and opportunities to use the bathroom. Once he is crate trained, he should be let out of the crate at age appropriate intervals and he should never be crated for more than 4 hours maximum without an exercise break.
Puppies are immature and can not "hold it" for the length of time that an adult can "hold it". Therefore, they must be taken outside often during the day or crate training can be counterproductive .... in other words, if you don't let them out often enough then they will learn that it is OK to use the bathroom in the crate. A puppy should be taken out of the crate in hours equal to their age in months. So, a 2 month old puppy should be taken out at least every 2 hours, a 3 month old puppy should be taken out at least every 3 hours, and a puppy that is 4 months or older should be taken outside at least every 4 hours from that point on. Most puppies can "hold it" double that amount of time at night (i.e. take a 2 month old pup outside every 4 hours at night). Be sure to also let the puppy outside within 15 minutes of feeding them breakfast, lunch and dinner because what goes in must come out quickly when you are a puppy!
Do not use the crate as a means of punishing your dog or it will be useless as a training tool. A crate should be a temporary method of housebreaking and once the dog or puppy is housebroken, the crate door should be left open and the dog should be allowed to stay in a "dog-proofed" hard floored room.
During the housebreaking phase, do not give your pet any water after 7:30PM and make sure you take him outside last thing at night. A dog should sleep in his crate at night, preferably in your bedroom. For a puppy, take him outside in the middle of the night when you hear him start to fuss and then promptly put him back in his crate without any playtime.
Do not crate your dog or puppy for a full working day or he will consider it a jail cell. If done properly, crate training is a very effective method of housebreaking a dog and your dog will consider his crate a safe room of their own.
