Additional BLA pics
This page includes additional photos from the Big Lazy Ace. These are the only other incremental pics taken during the build.
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This view of the bottom of the lower wing shows the 1/8" lite ply inset into the sheeting. Balsa filler stock is below it, and there is a plywood plate between the ribs for the wing bolts to pull against.
Of course, prior to covering, both wing centers get reinforced with fiberglass cloth and resin (or epoxy).
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This view shows the method I used to make the lower rear mounting in the fuselage. It's 2 layers of 1/4" plywood, with 1/4" ply plates epoxied to the inner fuselage to hold it in place. I used blind nuts, but you might use brass threaded inserts. Either will work.
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This view shows the wingtip design I used. It's 1/8" lite ply, and replaced the 1/4" x 6" wide solid balsa wingtips shown on the plans. With the 1/4" balsa fillets, it's plenty stiff and light.
(side note) If you don't want to cut your own ribs, you can get Lazer Lizard to cut and send you a set of ribs. They are all common to both wings. You will need to send him a full size paper template of the shape you intend to use.
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This view shows the method I used to frame up the rear of the fuselage. The bottom is fully cross-sheeted, and lightening holes can be cut after everything is in place.
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This view shows the gussets (1/32" veneer plywood) added to all the trusswork joints in the rear of the fuselage. Might seem a bit tedious to make all those little triangles, but they make for a really strong, lightweight reinforcement.
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This view shows both the cabanes and the hatch I made to access the mounting bolts for the Zenoah engine, ignition cut-off switch, and fuel system. Not shown on the plans, it requires cutting a couple extra foredeck bulkheads while framing the foredeck.
It's up to you, as the builder, to determine if you need a hatch or not and how big to make it. Mine allows to set in a quart Bennett fuel tank with full access to all the internals.
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This view shows the completed airframe from the front.
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And here's another view of the finished airframe prior to covering. Too big to get these views inside.
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This view shows the method I used to make the the landing gear. It's actually a lamination like an Oreo cookie. One layer of 1/4" plywood on the top and bottom, with another spacer (as thick as your gear legs) in the center (shaped like an "H").
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This view shows the inside of the "cookie". The outside layer eventually epoxies to the bottom of the fuselage, but the inside layer has to fit between the fuselage sides.
Drill thru the entire assembly, wood -- gear legs -- and the other wood laminations. Insert blind nuts on the inside, and you can remove the gear legs for covering when you're ready.
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Before you epoxy the gear plate assembly to the fuselage, trim the excess length of screws about flush with the blind nuts. Easier to do it now, than to trim them once the gear plate is permanantly in place. Reinforce inside fuselage joints with hardwood and epoxy so it's plenty strong.
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This view shows the lite ply doublers glued to the inside of the fuselage side trusses. I cut lightening holes after the glue dried.
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This view shows the outside view. NOTE that there are two 1/4" aircraft ply pieces near the top stringer over the lower wing bay. These are for mounting the cabanes in place of using conventional cabane blocks. The measurements for these mounts are shown on the plans. Cut them for a good fit and EPOXY them in place.
Normally, the wooden cabane blocks act to keep the fuselage sides from spreading under flight loads. The front mounts rely on the bulkead and triangle stock, but the rear one will need a brace. I used two solder lugs held onto the cabane bolts with washers and locknuts. Then I cut a piece of piano wire to fit, and soldered it in place. Light, strong, and clean. Remember, the cabanes bolt on, so the wire brace is needed here.
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This view shows how I made the airfoil on the stab. I used laminations of square stock for leading and trailing edges. Stronger than shown on plans. The top stringer is taper cut lengthwise. I chose to add the tapered pieces shown on the inboard edges. No other sticks needed. When covered, it looks fine.
I deviated from the plans and sanded a taper to the elevators, strictly for looks. Again -- this is builder's choice.
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A bit out of sequence here, but before you sheet the foredeck, but after all the foredeck bulkheads are in place, you might want to cover the cockpit area with plastic film or paint.
I put my Rx switch and charge jack in the cockpit. Lots of room to reach it there, and out of any engine exhaust. Actually, I just didn't want it on the side of the fuselage.
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My building table is 4'x 8'. Once you have both wings bolted in place, I suggest you jig the plane solid to your table. Prop in in place as if it were in level flight and glue temporary sticks to hold it steady. If you need to twist wings, glue sticks to them and the table to hold everything in place. Do this for both wings so everything is where you need it to be (hope you own an incedence meter). When all is in place, it's nearly break time again. Soak the wings by spraying them with Amonia, then close the door till the smell goes away.
If you need to do this more than once, so be it. When all is dry and you can work without a fresh air mask, you need to make the "N" struts. I used 1/4" x 1/2" ply strips. Make each leg (one at a time) to fit. Bolt them in place as you go and glue the angled brace last. Cut 1/32" doublers for the top and bottom joints for each side of both struts. Now go float a loan for covering. HAHA....... Depending on your color scheme, you will need 7 to 10 rolls.
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