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Backroads & Boondocks – July 2000

By Bob Difley

I blinked and a year had zipped by since last year's Life On Wheels RV Conference at the University of Idaho, that wonderful gathering of RVers of widely diversified talents, experiences, and knowledge who gather each year to learn and share the RV Lifestyle. Now we had again shaken the road-worn reins of the trusty old steed and pointed her north toward Moscow.

I hated to leave our campsite under the trees on the banks of the Lostine River, near the northeastern Oregon towns of Enterprise and Joseph and the Wallowa Mountains. Though the road traffic between here and Moscow could be counted on one hand, if it wasn't for Oregon's Route 3 and Idaho's Route 129, you couldn't get there. Well, you could, but it would require backtracking westward almost to Pendleton, up through Walla Walla, then hanging a right over to Lewiston--a considerable distance.

Out of Enterprise route 3 is wonderfully deserted. It skirts by a bison ranch with a resident herd of bulls, cows, and calves, then passes through a corner of the Wallowa Whitman National Forest (if you follow one of the off-shoot dirt roads you can find dispersed campsites scattered about the pine forest). The open grassy areas and south-facing hillsides bloom with wildflowers as the road hugs a ridge high above the Joseph River, appearing as a small silver streak in the canyon far below. Then the road dives down off the mountain on a dizzying serpentine asphalt ribbon, crossing the Washington State line, and bottoming out at the Grand Ronde River.

Take a break at Broggan's Café that claims to have the "best milkshakes in town," home made pies, and home cooking. You'll need the energy, as now you have to reverse the procedure and snake up the mountain on the other side. This is no place to be in a hurry. Fields Spring State Park, near the top of the incline, is a cool, high elevation little known campground noted for its bird life and wildflowers. We spotted wild rose, wild geranium, lupine, paintbrush, penstemon, columbine, the rare lady mountain slipper, calypso orchids, and cat's ear--a delicate white flower with three petals and purple brush-stroke centers.

A climb up the sometimes rocky, one-mile hike to 4,500-foot Puffer Butte rewards you with a panoramic view of three states, the Snake River Canyon, and the Wallowa Mountains.

Thirty miles later the road descends into Clarkston across the Snake River from Lewiston and after climbing up the long Lewiston hill on US95, in less than half an hour we were in Moscow.

Life On Wheels

Life On Wheels days are filled with classes held on the beautiful University of Idaho campus, squeezing into already full heads the latest information on the proper charging of batteries, sizing of solar systems, the latest computer and wireless gizmos and gadgets that you can't live without, and lists of maintenance tips. Seminars and slide shows on driving the Alaska highway, snowbird nesting areas across the southern states, and RV experiences in areas as spread apart and diverse as Nova Scotia and the Baja Peninsula titillate the imagination.

It always surprises and pleases me that a large portion of the attendees do not yet own an RV and are attending the conference as a means of obtaining the information needed to make a wise buying decision. I met several people last year who had recently purchased their dream home-on-wheels and had come to the conference to learn its proper use and maintenance. One couple, owners of a spotless Country Coach only two weeks old, had never camped before and had come to "learn everything" before setting off on a cross-country tour. The driving school was filled to capacity with spouses wanting to share the driving responsibilities.

New friends asked us numerous "how-do-we" and "where-can-we" questions on fulltiming, boondocking, and life on the road. What to us has become normal everyday living was mysterious, exciting, and challenging to these new pioneers. Though everyone’s desires, experiences, plans, and style with his new home-on-wheels, whether as a fulltimer or as an extended user, will differ from his neighbor in many respects, there are also many similarities.

After pondering some of these questions the following thoughts and suggestions on RV traveling, gleaned from our experiences, come to mind.

Finally, don't forget to thank the rangers, hosts, and volunteers that work in the campgrounds and at visitor centers and attractions for all their good work.

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