HOHLKAM HARBOR AND PETERSBURG
June 13, 2001, Wednesday- one of the delights, especially for me, is playing with all of the electronics aboard our floating home. Toys include depth finders, multiple GPS's, autopilot, paper and electronic navigation charts, VHF radios, color radar and a great stereo player. Learning to use the screen display that coordinates all of these toys has been easy. Sailing might be a different challenge. With the mostly calm winds that we've had since leaving Juneau, we've had minimal use of the spinnaker, and no use of the main sail. The good side of just motoring is that nothing is tossing around in the cabin.
With some light rain this morning we hauled up the anchor at 9 AM, and cruised south for a total of 38 miles. Just before we arrived in Cleveland Passage our fortuned turned to the incredible with 6 humpbacked whales surrounding the Wandering Eye. Photos just cant do justice to the majesty and grace that these mammals convey. For almost 2 hours we sat and watched the multiple "blows" as they fill their lungs prior to diving, and then the graceful dive to the depths below. A surprise also awaited us upon restart. Our speedometer again wasn't working. What do the humpbacked whales feed on? Creel! What had clogged our sending unit last time…Creel. Fortunately by running in reverse for a few minutes, the sending unit started working again.
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Cleveland Passage provides us protection again winds and waves, but also provided views of several fishing boats with their outriggers spread, dragging nets behind their vessels. Eagles are soaring about our anchorage. What could be better?
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After we dropped the anchor a pleasant surprise awaited us on the transom. We had to move the crab pot to get to the BBQ, and lo and behold, we never had secured the crab pot. Lucky, lucky, lucky that it didn't fall off to reside in Davy Jones' Locker.
June 14, 2001, Thursday- leaving the Cleveland Passage we had to watch for gill nets that some of the fishermen had laid across the passage.
Fortunately we again had seas as smooth as glass. Two thirds of the way towards Petersburg we saw several dozen Orca whales, also known as killer whales, swimming north at a high rate of speed. These are considerably smaller then the humped back whales of yesterday, and in packs can attack larger mammals as large as sperm whales.
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With a breeze coming from the stern, the Captains, Phil and Karen, decided to sail wing to wing, and out came the jib on the starboard side, and the main sail on the port side. Sunshine and temps in the high 60's were the order of the day.
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The Wandering Eye pulled up to the fuel dock and we were perplexed. Phil said that it's burned a gallon per hour for the entire trip. Since we left Juneau the engine added 43 hours. All the fuel we were able to add was 27 gallons. Is the fuel tank not full? (It wouldn't take another drop). Our mystery will continue until we depart from Petersburg in a few days, and try to add more fuel. Maybe the diesel system had an air bubble which would prevent a full fill.
Today's mileage totaled 43 miles. The harbormaster gave us a berth which gives us another night or two of stable rest. Four dock lines are used to secure us to the pier, a bow line, a stern line, and two spring lines from the center cleat back to bow and stern. As I finished attaching the stern line, Phil asked me to move aside so that he could attach one spring line to the same cleat. I moved over, watching Phil, giving him room, and the next thing I know, it's deja vu all over again! My right leg had fallen between the floating pier and the piling. I crawl out of my up to the crotch water, and the four of us couldn't stop laughing. Fortunately there wasn't any damage, just some refreshing water to keep me cool.
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We arrived into cell phone service here in Petersburg, and learned that Stephen is going on Sunday to Dubai in the United Arab Emirates for business. As he said, why does he do Egypt in July (last) and now to Dubai in late June. Will he continue to roast?
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Dinner at a local restaurant called the Northern Lights, gave us the opportunity to get a feel for this little community. The Norwegians originally founded Petersburg. It reminded them of their homeland with mountains and fijords, and the economy based on fishing. Most of the vessels in the harbor are commercial fishing based, and as we walked the floating docks, the crews were busy getting ready to head out to sea. Homes and shops also bare a Norwegian theme with painted shutters and ladders placed on roofs. Tomorrow, we shall explore more, but some of the homes reflecting along the water tonight were quaint and picturesque. Still, it would be a tough place to live and to try to make a living.
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June 15, 2001, Friday- a relaxing day. Laundry catch-up. Store meandering. Dock cruising. Stopped at a shrimper icing his catch, and picked up two pounds of large side stripped shrimp for $8. Phil and Karen were busy with cell phone and faxes working with Jim and Mad on their new house purchase. Got our e-mail at the restaurant that we dined in last night. With 16 messages, including some photos, the cell phone connection would have been forever.
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Walking passed the "Sons of Norway" hall, we noticed some local kids dressed in traditional Norwegian clothing. They invited us into the hall for some traditional dancing. A small cruise ship (only 60 people) had arrived and two small busses were bringing in the group. So, enter we did and they had a wonderful spread of Norwegian baked delicacies and fresh coffee for all of us. The kids, from 2nd to 8th grade, 14 of them, performed for half and hour and a local woman gave the history of Petersburg. The hall that we were in was finished in 1913 after the local men spent 6 year's building the structure. Why? There very few women in town and to attract more women, they felt that a dancehall would be what the needed. The cost for the food and hour's entertainment, free. They didn't even have a collection box. So, enjoy we did.
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As Phil and Karen returned to the Wandering Eye this evening, they did one better then us. After an hour of chatting with a naturalist, a 5 pound salmon appeared in their hand at no cost. The naturalist can't sell a fish that's missing it's head and tail, and can't sell fish on the dock without a commercial license. What a deal! Between the shrimp and salmon, did we eat well!
June 16, 2001, Saturday- we decided to spend another day in Petersburg. It's such a quaint town….first order of business was a bottle of wine to thank the guy that gave us the salmon. Next we walked the docks at the South Harbor (we are at the North Harbor) and continued to get an education from the local fishermen. We now know the difference between the shrimpers, crabbers, seiners, gill-netters and longliners. Don't forget the tenders….large boats which are floating factories that take the catch of the fishermen and process the fish and freeze or can the catch right at sea.
Chatting with one young fisherman in a rather small boat, a longliner, he said that as soon as he gets his 4000 pounds of ice, he was sailing. That ice would keep 10,000 pounds of halibut or 4,000 pounds of salmon cold.
Another young man showed us how he was baiting large hooks with squid. The leaders are attached to a large, long, nylon cord. An anchor goes on one end of the line, then the hooks are spaced every 8 feet, and finally, the other end of the line contains a buoy. The anchors go down 200 fathoms, 1200 feet, and spend 3 days in the drink before they are hauled up. Meanwhile, the boat puts out it's spreaders, and they troll for salmon at 80 to 100 feet. Lots of work.
Walking past another boat, the owner was waiting for his crew before they set sail for their "chum" salmon. Mostly used for canning, 15 years ago they got 87 cents per pound. Now it's just 9 cents per pound. Fortunately his boat and license have been paid off and he can eek out a living in his 34 year old wooden boat.
Walking around town we got some exercise and finished our shopping at the food, liquor and fish stores.
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