June 18, 2001, Monday- we awoke to bright sunshine. It's a perfect to tour the town of Wrangler. As we got into town Phil's cell phone rang and it was John the tour operator saying that today was so beautiful let's go today, and he'd hold the same rate, even though it was only four on board. ($100 per head was better then $170 per).
So, run back to the Wandering Eye, pack some lunch, and the jet boat picked us up at our dock. Jim, our captain, is a native of Wrangle, and filled us in on local history and color throughout the day.
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First, these boats draw about 3 feet when stopped, but less then 6 inches when cruising, "up on the step". At cruise, these jetboats do up to 25 MPH or more. The Stikine River empties into the Inside Passage just north of Wrangle. The delta is very wide at this point because this is the area where the river starts and stops, based upon the tide. Here is where the silt is deposited forming numerous sand bars and constantly changing the river's entrance. Our morning departure was at high tide so we cruised over the area. Returning 8 hours later, at low tide, we had to pick our way back toward the town.
This river flows at 6 MPH in the wide areas, and at over 10 MPH in the narrow areas upriver. It's navigable 130 miles upriver to the town of Telegraph Creek, B.C.. Another 30 miles, in the spring, can be boated with local knowledge. 32 miles above Wrangle the river crosses into Canada. Our journey went about 30 miles towards the source.
The first stop was at the Garnet quarry. Many years ago an all women mining company attempted commercial mining at the site. Unfortunately the production never reached gem quality. All of the land was deeded to the local children via the "Boy Scouts". Now, after a ¼ mile walk from the river, one reaches a quarry where you could try your luck. It's amazing how the jewels just pop out of the stones. Phil tried his luck with some borrowed tools, but without success. Some of the local kids get 20,000 per year because they know where to look and how to chip the stones. This tour operator takes his passenger safety seriously. Before leaving the boat, we were given bear spray, and Jim strapped a 44 magnum to his side.
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Next stop was up to the Stikine Glacier. We had to pass through a lake area that was 115 feet deep, and guess what….it was blocked almost solid with icebergs that were stuck on the bottom. Passing through, and over some ice, the glacier face came into view. This glacier, the backside of the LeConte Glacier, runs for about 125 miles before the two exit to water.
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Coming back we had some fun when Karen and I departed the boat and stood on an iceberg. What a kick. It was slipperier than can be imagined, being wet and having a puddled surface, sapphire blue in color, it was a challenge to take a step and not fall down.
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Continuing in our jet boat, we passed several rafts that held "cabins"-- it's an interesting "skirting" of the law. You can't build a cabin on the land, it's all federal land. But, since it's a navigable waterway, one can take his boat and "moor" it in the river. Pretty slick!
One can't pass the area without thinking about more hard core folks….130 miles, or more coming downstream in the river from Telegraph Creek. A man, a woman and a dog and lots of gear were in an open canoe. Tough cookies!
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After all of this hard work, it was time for a hot tub. So, upstream we jetted to the series of hot tubs set up by the US Forest Service. One tub is on a screened porch, and the one we used, outside in the open air, just above a green meadow. The four of us, along with our captain, hopped right in and relaxed for almost an hour. One pipe entering was the "hot" geyser, and one pipe with a faucet is the cold water. A more peaceful spot would be hard to imagine.
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LARRY, SUSAN, PHIL, JIM & KAREN |
In between the above stops we cruised into every cove, slough, byway and tributary looking for bear and moose, but alias, it was so warm and sunny they were probably staying cool in the forest.
Good news from Debi today. Her company laid off 25% of its workforce, but she wasn't cut. Now she has to figure out how her department can do more work while they are currently putting in 80 and 100-hour weeks.
Meanwhile, back at the ranch, Karen and Susan were planning out tonight's menu when Scott, our fisherman friend from last night, came over with fresh shrimp. He traded some crabs, (his boat is crabbing) with another guy for some shrimp. Since Scott's been eating alone on his boat most nights, he figured that with the shrimp in his arms, we'd do the cooking and he'd get a great meal and fresh company. What a deal….the shrimp that he brought over filled three 6 quart pots. Never did we eat more or fresher shrimp.
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This wonderful day was fished with a picture perfect sunset. At 10:30 our neighbor from last night came off the dry dock and we again switched places with him. A long but superior day!
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