tracyandbryan.html
Tracy & Bryan waiting for the Métro.
FRIDAY, DECEMBER 14, 2001, PARIS -- Tracy & Bryan slept late today & shook off their jetlag. By late afternoon the altar-bound pair were ready to hit the streets of Paris for Day Two. First up on the agenda: order flowers for tomorrow's wedding.
Tracy & the florist. Santa above rue de Vaugirard.
They cabbed over to Mr. Phil's apartment, then went directly to see the florist. The bridegroom pointed to every blossom in the shop & declared, "Yeah, these will be fine," as the bride conducted a considerably more productive discussion with the floral professional. "Simple, but elegant," was Tracy's watchword & after a bit of discussion, agreement was reached on a suitable bouquet that will highlight the bridal gown but not overpower it.
Phil took off for a doctor's appointment while Tracy & Bry explored the 'hood & acquired a few items from a traiteur, a cheese shop & a bakery for their 5 p.m., er, breakfast. These two loveheads have certainly succumbed to the decadent Parisian lifestyle in record time. Somebody in this town once said that "living well is the best revenge" & our heroes are here to prove him right.
Bry & Tracy by the tree in the lobby of Phil's building.
Miguel, the gardienne's little boy & his best buddy
helped decorate this year.
Shortly after Phil's return the apartment, the threesome walked up to the brilliantly-decorated rue de Vaugirard to take the Métro to a nightclub to kick off their evening.
The New Morning. Gong.
They entered the New Morning just as Gong, an old-school Zappa-esque British psychedelic-progressive rock band, was hitting the stage. Tracy, Bry & Phil muscled their way through the packed house to a spot on the side that afforded a bit of breathing space & good sightlines. The band, which played spacey, jazz-inflected material, was sporting some very colorful costumes, which they changed often.
The female vocalist came out in a leopard suit to sing a song that started off with the line, "I'm your Pussy." Lead guitarist Daevid Allen took the stage at one point wearing strap-on rubber cone tits with matching penis. He was playing a character called Zero, who is neither man nor woman, but both. Rrrrrright. It was that kind of show.
Cone tits notwithstanding, the old ennui soon overcame Tracy, Bry & Phil. I think we've gotten this band, they agreed. Time to move on to dinner.
The bridal duo outside the festively-illuminated
Au Pied de Cochon.
Miraculously, a taxi materialized just as the trois amis emerged from the club. Take us to Les Halles, they instructed. Another spectacular late-night dining extravaganza awaited them at Au Pied de Cochon. First, though, they sipped coupes de champagne at the bar. That is, after the waiter replaced the initial three flutes he smashed as he lost his footing behind the bar. Now, is that good luck or bad luck in terms of the wedding, Tracy wondered.
Good, of course.
The hungry three sampled the best of the hearty menu: onion soup, escargots (Bry, of course), pig's foot (the restaurant's namesake), scallops & pork chop.
Tracy & Phil had Grand Marnier crêpes for dessert; Bry enjoyed a tasty pear tart.
Jeffrey Tambor.
The soon-to-be-wed Tracy & Bry weren't the only celebrities in the house, however. Jeffrey Tambor (Hank Kingsley from The Larry Sanders Show) was sitting at the next table. Hey now! We don't know what Hank had for dinner, but we can safely report that he was knocking back the after-dinner digestifs in a major way. Oh, those show people.
The wedding party concluded the evening with a brisk, chilly walk past the Louvre, across the Pont des Arts to the Left Bank, winding up on Boulevard Saint-Germain, right by the hotel where Tracy & Bry are residing. They parted company with Mr. Phil in front of the Café de Flore, all three determined to get to bed before dawn.
After all, there's a Big Paris Wedding tomorrow!
THURSDAY, DECEMBER 13, 2001, PARIS -- Tracy & Bryan arrived in Paris today. Soon after checking into their hotel they went to St. Joseph's church & had a successful meeting with the priest who will be marrying them on Saturday. After that they crashed for a few hours to get over their jetlag.
85 rue Blomet. Dominique.
The two lovebirds went over to Mr. Phil's apartment on rue Blomet in the early evening. There they enjoyed a long happy hour, during which they were joined by Phil's cute French neighbor Dominique, who came over to use the computer. Between the four of them they downed two bottles of champagne -- no slackers in this group!
Aboard the #80 bus. At Le Suffren. Giving the international "Feed us now!" signal.
Around 10pm Tracy, Bry & Phil left Dominique at the keyboard & went down to the corner to catch the #80 bus. They were headed to dinner at a restaurant called Le Suffren, in the 7th arrondissement. (They could have walked to the resto, but it was bitter cold in the City of Light this evening.)
At a window table in the packed restaurant, the hungry threesome shared a plateau of shellfish (crab, oysters, sea snails, clams, shrimp, langoustines, mussels, etc.), then dove into their first courses: a scallop & mushroom
gratin for Tracy & Phil, escargots for Bry.
It soon became clear that, in addition to their marital ambitions, these two Americans-in-Paris (& their faithful expatriate sidekick) were embarking upon a serious mission gastronomique. The bridal couple ordered duck confit for their main course. Mr. Phil had
a huge platter of choucroute (assorted pork items w/sauerkraut &
potatoes).
For dessert: tarte tatin (upside-down apple pie with
ice cream) for Tracy & Bryan; profiteroles (puff pastry with
vanilla ice cream inside covered with chocolate sauce) for Phil.
After dinner the trio walked one block to get a fabulous, fairly close view of the Eiffel Tower sparkling in the night. It's probably safe to say that Tracy & Bry were bowled over by the dazzlingly romantic sight.
Not a bad kick-off to the Big Nuptial Weekend!