Trading rose cuttings is a good way to expand your rose collection. It's less expensive then paying $10.00 or more for new roses at the nursery and it gives you the satisfaction of trying something new.
Here's how it works:
Step 1:
TAKE CUTTINGS:
Each cutting is taken from a stem where the bloom has dropped its petals within the past two weeks. Taking cuttings before petal-fall results in cuttings with immature wood which will rot instead of rooting. Cuttings from once blooming roses may be taken any time after petal-fall as long as it is from the current year's growth. Cuttings are taken long enough to include five leaves whenever possible(about 5 inches). You can remove the bottom two leaves to reduce weight in shipping. Take 3-5 cuttings of each variety to give you a better chance of success. You have about a 50% rate of the roses rooting, so out of 5 cuttings you should get at least 2 rooted roses.
Step 2.
BAG THE CUTTING:
Take a wet paper towel and wrap it around the base of the cuttings. This will provide moisture so that the cutting does not dry out during shipping. Cuttings are placed in a ZipLoc bag and sealed (one cutting to one bag). The bag is then rolled up and a piece of tape placed around the rolled bag so that it does not unroll during shipping. Masking tape makes it easier to label cuttings.
Step 3.
LABEL THE CUTTING:
Once the bag is rolled up and taped, print the variety name on the outside of the bag, using an indelible marker. At this point, the cuttings are ready to box up and ship.
Step 4.
SHIPPING THE CUTTINGS:
It is best to ship cuttings on Monday or Tuesdays, shipping later in the week may mean the cuttings are left in hot trucks over the weekend. The best way to ship cuttings is to use Priority Mail from the US Post Office. Two pounds of cuttings can be shipped for about $3.90 and typically arrive in 2-3 days.
WHEN YOU RECIEVE YOUR CUTTINGS:
Step 1:
UNPACKAGE CUTTINGS:
If you recieve more than one type rose per package be sure to keep your cuttings labeled.
Step 2:
PREPARE CUTTINGS FOR PLANTING:
Cut off the flower if it has not already been removed. Strip the cutting of all but its top two leaves. Take your finger nail or sharp knife and scrape one inch of tissue off of one side of the bottom of the cutting. Do the same to the opposite side of the bottom of the cutting. Dip the cutting two-inch deep in water, then dip it in two inch of rooting compound (Rhizopon #3 or Hormonex #3 is by far the best and runs $25 but will last for several thousand cuttings. If that's too pricey, dip n' grow works OK used undiluted. I don't recommend Rootone as it may not be strong enough for the more stubborn roses). Push the cutting down into the peat/sand mixture. Some people spray their cuttings with a baking soda solution to prevent mold.
PLANTING YOUR CUTTINGS:
Step 1.
GET A TUB: Get a two-foot by three-foot clear plastic storage container. Wal-Mart sells them for about $6.00. You might be able to find them cheaper if you look. You'll need to put some small holes in the bottom so that excess water can drain out.
Step 2.
FILL THE TUB: Fill it half full with a damp mixture of 50 percent sand. Play sand from the hardware store works fine. For the other 50 percent use peat moss. Mix this together and pat the soil mix down firmly. You don't want air pockets.
Step 3.
PREPARE THE CUTTINGS:If you take your cuttings in the fall and remove all leaves and thorns. Removing the leaves has kept the cuttings from becoming a fungus-fest.
Step 4.
INSERT AND LABEL CUTTINGS: Push the cutting about two inch into the sand. There is room enough for 11 rows of nine cuttings. Unless you have a really good memory, you'll want to put a label on each row.
Step 5.
COVER CUTTINGS: Do not use the cover that came with the container unless it is transparent. Instead, use a clear trash bag intended for a 55-gallon drum.
Step 6.
PLACE TUB IN SHADE: Put the container in an area of dappled shade and wait three to 12 weeks, depending on temperature.
Soon, you will have roots and the buds on the sides of the stems will swell and bring forth leaves. Between the peat moss, sand, and container, it ran about $12.00 to get 60 plants going. That's about 20 cents per rosebush - a bargain in anyone's book.
This method works best in the fall. In the summer it may be best to use a cold frame. Use the same mixture of sand and peat moss. Place cold frame in an open shade area and cover cuttings with an empty 2 liter soda bottle that you have cut the bottom off of. Be sure to label each cutting.
ROSES I HAVE FOR TRADE:
I'm located in zone 6a so may not have cuttings availible till late May or June
Sir Thomas Lipton (Rugosa)
Therese Bugnet (Rugosa)
The Fairy (polyantha)
Sun Runner (ground cover rose)
Red Ribbons (ground cover rose)
Red Simplicity (landscape or hedge rose)
Paul's Himalayan Musk Rambler (rambler)
Zephirine Drouhin (climber)
ROSES I'M LOOKING FOR:
Old Blush
Buff Beauty
Reine des Violettes
Just about any OLD GARDEN OR ANTIQUE ROSES that are hardy in zone 6
"Old roses" & "Antique Roses"
"Old roses" is a term the American Rose Society uses to describe plants introduced prior to 1867. "Antique Roses" is often used to describe plants that have been in cultivation 75 years or more.
If you would like to trade EMAIL ME to set up a trade.