TRAIL OF '98: PAGE 2

3/13 Morning. Time to move First 6 miles, easy terrain. This trail before Albert Mt. has a drop off of a thousand feet, it's icy, don't want to slip here. Albert has a climb of .3, straight up. On top, a fire tower, what a view! .6 passed the summit is Big Spring Shelter, stopped for lunch, not for long, have to keep moving to stay warm. Little over 5 miles to Rock Gap Shelter, easy haul, mostly down hill, there is a uphill that seem to sap my strength. I did not remember this climb being so hard. It could be that my knee was so sore. Got to hike through, down a stream, first ford, I don't remember how far, maybe, I can't even guess. But it was a few steps, yes. My feet got wet. .1 passed the shelter, at Rock Gap, besides a road, is a blue blaze trail that leads to the second largest Poplar tree in the U.S. It's 26 ft. around and over a hundred foot. high. A logging co. back at the turn of the century, cut down one about the same. But the weight strained the team of oxen so bad, that they left this one.

Got a ride to Rainbow Springs Campground, Jennie and Buddy Crossman own it. They've seen a lot of hikers over the years. We met in '95, on my first hike, we talked and we laughed. I went to the bunkhouse, started a fire. Went to the men's room, to shower and whatever and I met HIM,( the hiker from Deep Gap Shelter). I told him a thing or two, like, he should of been alive during the Titanic era, so he could of drove the women and children off the lifeboats, so he would have room for his sweet little ass! He told me that he did not mean for the kids to go out in the rain, just the chaperones. I told him, that if he had a child, that went out on a trip, would he like the chaperones to leave, and have them alone with something like him! I think he will walk a little softer on this lovely earth. Tell you the truth, I liked him. But what's wrong, is this perception about the shelters, what time to go to sleep, to get up. Shelters are like Grand Central Station, people come and go, they check the mail, journals, what they seen, where it hurts, what's up, so on. The ones who get upset, most times, is from being overwhelm, it don't matter who's there. Here they are, trying to get alone, figure out there head, about the rude awakenings, when they reach this point, get back to basics, warm, dry, and fed. But what about fear? On the most part, it's only fear of the unknown, BUT, trust your sixth sense.

3/14 Got a ride back to Rock Gap. My knee is very sore , so, today will be a short day, but long. What I mean by that. Hiking, I got 3.7 miles, than I go to town, Franklin, N.C., resupply, ate at an AYCE, chinese this time. I'm back at the campground, got the fire going and I think of how fascinated I am with the trail. It is kind of neat. In Georgia, small hills, from Bly Gap, bigger climbs, Franklin, bigger still, Wesser to Fontana Dam, oh my God! And than, from Fontana to Clingmans Dome, it's a thirty mile climb. I'm getting ahead of myself. Well, I wander at times, mind, body, soul. The way I look at life, or myself. I guess is, when I dance, I dance. And when I sleep, I sleep. And yes, when I hike alone on this beautiful trail, my thoughts drifts to far off matters for some part of the time, but, for some other part of the time, I lead them back again, to this hike, this trail, the sweetness of this solitude, to myself.

3/15 I got a ride back to Winding Stair Gap, in about 5 miles I passed a blue blaze trail that leads to Siler Bald Shelter. I think back to '95, waking up at that shelter. Where this young man, laying on his elbow, looking into my eyes, I mean, I am just opening my eyes, and he said, your snores are the loudest I had ever heard! There was no anger, just wonderment, like a child that comes up on your chest and is so amazed. I'm taking a break up here on Siler Bald, sun is shining, windy, little cold, I eat, enjoy the beauty. I end up at Wine Spring Gap for the night.

3/16 I end up at Cold Spring Shelter and I am grossed out. This shelter is 15 feet from this spring and these so called hikers are going to the toilet, beside the shelter, what a mess. So I write in the shelter's journal, To the ones who can't control themselves, get in touch with me, so I can take a dump in your water bottles. I know they are tired, but they must go 100 feet away from water sources to do their business.

TODAY IS 1-20-99, Went to Eastern Mountain Sports, I bought, fleece, top and bottom, stove, cooking pot, water filter, headlamp, two pairs of boots. And at Circuit City, I changed my radio, it's a hard life on the trail. Waiting for my pack to come back and I have to fixes the stitching on my sleeping bag, than I am ready for another adventure. Now, Back to the hike of '98.

3/17 Short day, big climbs, Wesser Bald Shelter,
3/18 A Rufus Morgan Shelter, tomorrow, I get my tent poles.
3/19 Made it to Wesser. Got my poles, waterproof my tent.
1741 Hours: Grassy Gap, looking at the mountains at sunset, what a sight. I'm in my tent, I missed it so. They're talking rain tonight. Been in the 70's today, bugs are out, but not full force, can't wait for summer, it's been a wet spring, ha ha ha, tell you the truth, I know there'll be record numbers of insects. I got these little packs of jelly and packs of peanut butter, have them for breakfast with the crackers, will eat them before they'll broken. I got so many goodies, just had beef stew, pound and a half it weighs, tastes so good, but it's only 690 calories, I'm so happy, that I'm giddy, could it be the sun is shining for once. This is the weather I had in '95 and with this rain, I miss it so. With this relationship I have with the sun and with her warmth, may I never grow tired of this feeling.

3/20 0427 Hours: Going to be in the 70's today, but, there's rain now, in fact, it's coming in waves. Lighting, is striking every few seconds. Inside my tent, I'm dry as a bug and as happy as a clam.
0454 Hours: its time to get up, its time to get up, its time to get up in the morning. Ya right.
0636 Hours: Got up to take a leak. Ouch! Stub my toe, all these leaves and I catch the only rock around. Yes, I stub the toe without the nail, and it bleeding. I look at it, I dressed it, hope It does not get infected, put on my wet smelly socks, that has not been cleaned since the Blue Berry Patch.
0756 Hours: The sky is black, it's raining. The radio says, clearing this afternoon, but snow tonight. I am on the move. I'm talking into the recorder, how people are rushing to town, the post office. How the world will end if they don't get there when they wish. How I myself, interpret the meaning of the trail, what I see, or maybe understand, how I can relate this to you

I think of two words, that can best describe one's hike, emotional content. To have your heart in every step. Sometimes, you get lost(never lost, only delayed), if you do and if you're tired, lay down. Maybe, it will be at night. You look up into the night sky, cloudless, you see the moon, it really doesn't matter what stage it's at. If you watch it, study it, tonight, a few nights. You will see a difference in brightness, and in location. To me, it represents towns, and people. Look up again, there are other lights, not as bright, see how they're fix. If you are lost, you can be led out of trouble following them. To me, they represents our siblings of the forest. Set your course to them and your life will be true, you will not go wrong, your stories, rich. So, when you leave this trail, and you are out and about telling your stories. Swear not by the moon, the inconstant moon, That monthly changes in her circled orb, lest that thy stories prove likewise variable.

1124 Hours: Swin Bald, quite a view over looking NOC. Sun is shining, sweating, enjoying the wind and just last night, bad winds killed 5 people in Gainsville. The trees are in the way for getting a good picture. One of the stops one must be, for me, going every day, being moved like a day hiker. Do you know what I'm doing today? I am going to do the A T and today is my first day. Like a child waking up, full of wonderment, not listening to the ones saying how this life is nothing, but darkness, it's only in their weariness that they echo what they hear from the weary. Yes, in a way, life is darkness, unless you have urge, and urge is blind, unless you have knowledge, and knowledge is vain, unless you have work, and work is empty, unless you have love, and when you can work with love, you bond yourself to yourself, to another, and, to God.
1133 Hours: Done soaking in the sun. Heck of a climb coming from Grassy Gap, little tired, no soreness, knee feels good, well, best it can.
1630 Hours: Cheoah Bald, all socked in, no sunset, little tired, not much pain in knee, went slow, a snail's pace. Wind started picking up back at Sassafras Gap Shelter. Quite a few hikers there too, one of them is a real Hero, a killer of mice. We had an discussion, how the greatest of man's accomplishment, is, death, destruction, mayhem. And anyway, does he thinks he's the only thing in life that likes a warm fresh meal. Told some poems. They were new ears to me. If they listen. Then, if they left the trail with this, then Mother Nature, their children, their children's children wins. Starting to hail.

1820 Hours: Tent completely covered. Snow now.

3/21 0521 Hours: Still snowing- I'm thinking, hope I don't break my neck going down this mountain. The climb that I did yesterday I would not like to do with all this snow.

3/23 Got up, did 50 yards of the trail, went to Fontana Village, I enjoy this place, good rest, got a room with someone( wish I remembered who). Soaked in this full size pool, I believe it was 102, oh, sooo warm, good for the body, and everyone else is happy, mind, soul. Went to the post office, saw the Hero again. He telling me he's protecting me when he's killing the mice, MORON, if he wants to protect me, join the service. Then he tells me I should be civil. At that point, I knew it was out of my hands, while he's loading up with others to go back to the trailhead. I got hold of the park rangers, and they told me, that he has a $5,000 fine, just for Hero's like him. Resupply, ate, went back to the pool, it does feel so good. Next day too, well, almost all day, just soaking. Late in the afternoon, I made it back to the trailhead, did 50 more yards. I'm at Fontana Dam Shelter, good size crowd, some, were kids from highschool, and were trying to get a fire going, the limbs were too big. Well, I show them how to break them without getting hurt, ha ha ha. One limb exploded in my hand. The gash was three inches long, ¾ of an inch deep. One look at that, I knew where I was going, six hours later I was back, doctor told me eleven stitches to close it, no tendons were cut, just meat, lucky, between the thumb and the index finger. Should I stop spending time in towns. Here I am, killing time and myself.

3/25 1114 Hours: I'm in the Smokies, got my hand bleeding a little, I'm trying not to sweat.
1224 Hours: Laying down against my pack on this beautiful day, thinking, my hand's sore, going to take a nap.
1916 Hours: Birch Spring Shelter, 7 miles today, all up. My hand has been bleeding, wandering if I've ripped any stitches out, don't want to open it, for I might be opening an Pandora's box. Just hope I don't fall as many times tomorrow. What a brain I was last night. Oh, hum, who cares, it's the song of the trail.

3/26 Leaving Birch Spring Shelter, some 7th through 9th graders stayed here lasted night. School, I don't know. Thought more about my hand I guess. If this gets infected, I will have to leave the trail for a few days. No added bleeding today. No matter how big or powerful something is, bacteria, conquer all. Nice day, today, wind is blowing, in the 70's. Will not be racing through the Smokies, this year. Trail is icy. I have been cold since I started this year. It's been hard, but then again, so beautiful, the spirit, to touch, I'm talking about my ripped hand, why, how I got this. Maybe, I should be gentler? I'm here at Mollies Ridge Shelter, spending the night.
3/27 0925 Hours: There is a breeze, great hiking, pretty level. I'm talking again, this time, about my pack. How it has everything I will ever need. But, if I put it on for twenty, or, thirty miles a day. I may resent it, say something that I can't ever retract. So, these short days, putting my pack on, well, I guess, it's like getting a hug. 1635 Hours: Russell Field Shelter, radio says, in the 80's down below, not here.

3/28 0528 Hours: wind's blowing, kind of cold, dark. Went to pivy, almost drop the recorder down the hole, that was close. Listening to the wind, sounds like a freight train.
1738 Hours: Derrick Knob Shelter, lots of hikers flying by, I'm an old man, will not ever be able to kick up my heels again. But, life is like a game of chess, before the game is over, I will not have all my pieces.

3/29 0700 Hours: What a great day! Got my shorts on for the first time. The wind as cut down. Fell on my hand, no leakage, still keeping an eye on it. Birds are chirping, guess they're asking me why I'm up so early. 1111 Hours: Silers Bald Shelter, inside, getting settle, went outside, and the place came alive. 1638 Hours: Saw a ranger, pig hunting. Those pigs sure do a lot of damage, don't want to play with them. I also talked to a young lady today, psyche major. She thinks I put women down, she thinks I should have an open mind, bottom line, if you can kill for no reason, throw it off to the side. Then tell me that I should have an open mind. I'm talking about the mice and such. Not about the pigs, I wished that I wasn't confusing, Bottom line, the rangers can do what they want, we can't

3/30 1245 Hours: Double Spring Shelter, I boiled some water, change my dressing. Looks clean, no redness. My hand been burning, I think it's only the stitches. Haven't eaten yet today, I should smarten up. Comfortable today, I've been lucky since I ripped my hand, no rain while I been hiking, haven't got any dirt in it, that saves a headache or two. Thinking about this month, cut hand, swept down a river, that's enough for this month, I wonder what's instore for me next month? 0824 Hours: Just left Double Spring Shelter, going up this grade, steep, it's windy I got a full belly. Walking through the evergreens, moss is on everything, the smell, I think I'm in a Christmas shop. I am so much at peace on my climb to Clingman Dome. I have no pass, I have no future, just now, just get me over this, ha ha ha. But really, I'm passing a beautiful spot, with the sun breaking through. Got a slight bead of sweat. Listening to a song, TO THE 12TH OF NEVER.
1323 Hours: Passed Clingman a few hours ago, it was cold, windy, didn't stay long. Stop at a blowdown, cut it away. Met this young man out here hiking, seeing if he likes it. He was wearing jeans, sneakers, oh, he was so wet. We stop and talked for a couple of seconds, him standing there shaking. He was at a good spot, a road was thirty yards east of us, before the rise going to Mt Collins Shelter. Before he left, I told him, you can always come back, but it's harder if your snake bit. Tough walking through these snowfields. Sinking, twisting my knee, ouch. One time falling, twisting my knee, to the breaking point, had to grab a tree branch, that open the flood gates. I'm tired, a little frustrated, thick overcast, going to be thunder storms. Have to go into town tomorrow, don't want to, have to resupply. Don't want to run away from Mother Nature, she may turn her back on me. It's nice out here, no raging of the cars, blowing of horns, squealing of tires.
1433 Hours: Have a big cup of hot chocolate, three packages and three scoops of powered milk, thick enough? Two packages of romen noodles. Bunch of kids, two or three groups, showed up, stupid me, my stuff was out and I left, can back, camera, gone. Only had two pictures left, before I sent the roll home. The one who took it, should run for president, he will fit right in, and if he's cold, he can burn the constitution for warmth. Up here in the Smokies, there are post hole diggers, picnic tables, and these so call PEOPLE(really, they're only scum bags) burn these things.

4/1 out of here.

4/2 1518 Hours: Out of town, starting my climb, who do I run into, just a hiker, but, it's his name, Little Bear, thought I would never say that name again! I apologies to him, he had a girl friend with him, nice young couple, but, they didn't last long out here,

4/3 1427 Hours: Took 7 hours to do 12.6 miles to Tri-corner Shelter. I am soaked, there was a cold, hard rain all day, today. Just got a report about a tornado warning. Hiked today with Cold Dog, his name was Red Dog, he changed it after Brown Fork Shelter. He left the trail for a week, he got a new sleeping bag, he is so much happier. So cold today I thought I was getting frost bit.
4/4 0720 Hours: Little rain, I'm cold, time to move. 1400 Hours: Cosby Knob Shelter, I'm thawing out now, couldn't use my hands today, so cold. My leg doesn't bend, so I can't get up to speed, to get my heart pumping, to get a sweat, don't even breath hard. If I try to go faster, I catch my foot and fall, where, right on my right hand, whaaa. 1734 Hours: Drying my socks and the rest of me out. I maybe hard to figure out, or why I would do this and sometimes you think I'm beating around the bush, but in reality, this is the fastest and the most direct route I have. Even if the effects of attention, seems, for years of producing no results. One day a light, that is in exact proportion to them, will flood the soul.

4/5 0730 Hours: Beautiful sunrise, warm day. Full shelter last night. There were a bunch of high school seniors and thru-hikers. I had a can of smoked clams, that I eaten, what was left, I put a slice of bread, that I broken up, into the can. I told the kids not to touch it, for it's an offering to the Gods.(of course I took the can out the next morning, pack it in, pack it out) When the mice are fed, they will leave your things alone, and when they get to be too many, well, nature takes care of her own. It's fascinating if you're there to see her in motion. It was so cool seeing the reaction of the seniors. First, one sang out, I see a mouse, then, one squeal with delight, one just ran over my foot, everyone was at peace, great night. Things could of been a lot different if someone else was teaching them to kill anything that moves, the hunt would of been on. I wish that I could say correctly, clearly. You see there are other thing out here, always watching, they do get hungry, to see an owl swoop down, to see agility, poetry in motion. Vibrations to the ears, sound. Vibrations, or motion to ones eyes, to the senses, music. To move with music, dance. So anyway, the smiles on their faces. Tis a good start for this day. All this ice, the sun is shining brightly, we're off.

4/6 0930 Hours: Leaving Davenport Gap(northern entrance to the Smokies) stayed at Mountain Mamas last night. Had two breakfasts, sun is shining, bit nippy, going by Pigon river, WHAT A GREAT DAY, I did yell this (and sometimes others things) on the top of mountains, I'm going over Snow Bird now, my legs are pump and the gnats are biting. Stop at Brown Gap, for the night. Well, now, while I'm listening to my tape, writing this down, I'm hearing instead, Clint Eastwood's Hang 'em High, second tape, one tape totally gone, now part of this one.

1-28-99, I kind of lost my cool last night hearing old Clint, and thinking back to '95 about these so call thru-hikers, trying to tell me, if I did every inch of this trail, I would not be this happy, this trail is so tough, they told me. You see, I could see through them, I knew it was the first time they left ma ma, so this didn't bother me, or later on, when I was sitting in a restaurant, eating, when this young couple came in and they saw me, she started yelling at me, your not a thru-hiker, you didn't do that last mountain, your not sweating enough, I'm sitting there eating. She went on, telling me, she was crying, doing that last mountain. I said, You were crying? She said, yes. well, I said, I'm not doing that mountain, too tough for me. Well, let me tell you, she really lost it, and I couldn't care less. But, when these so called, thru-hikers, drove others off the trail, and I couldn't protect them, because, I did miss some of the trail, they wouldn't listen to me, or maybe, they couldn't.( I am not smart, oh how I know that, I am dumb, still, in fact, you can walk all over me, like a stone. I cannot relate to any one, unless they're already half way there) I got pissed. I came back in '96, to do every inch in a row, full back pack, no days off. ( I made it to Kent, Conn., Why I left there, it was all a joke, that was played, I see that now.) But, the bigger picture, to enjoy, and the biggest, to do unto others, as to wished them to do unto you. Back to '98- only lost a few days of recordings.

I went over Mac's Patch, soaked my feet in a stream, no bugs today, so, I said, enjoy this day, while it's here. Stayed at Deer Park Mountain Shelter, the next morning I did a heck of a header, went a good twenty feet off the trail, everything went flying, radio, water bottle, hat, walking stick. I do remember saying how it's easier hitting the ground in the morning, then later on in the day.

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before Albert
solitude
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