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<the grand master's palace>

- article published in The Sunday Times of Malta on November 14, 1999 - 

    Throughout the centuries, many architects contributed to one of Malta's most important buildings, the Grand Master's Palace in Valletta. Some of these contributions represent a valuable addition, while others were rather a failure. Due to all these different kinds of interferences, the Palace turns out to be a  problematic building.

Originally designed and built by the Maltese architect Gerolamo Cassar in 1572, the Palace has suffered many alterations and extensions since then. Most of these modifications are not documented precisely enough, so that it is hard to judge which parts belong to the original structure and which parts were later added.

    Even the Palace's building history proves to be a complicated matter. The Order of St. John chose a building site for the Palace in Valletta's centre on a huge square, which already had two houses built on it. One of these houses belonged to the nephew of Grandmaster Pietro del Monte, Eustachio del Monte, while the house next to it was the first Italian auberge.

However, the Grandmaster liked the location, and in 1571 he persuaded the Order to buy the site and to erect the Palace on it. The two existing buildings were supposed to be connected to each other and to be converted into the new Palace.

Obviously, this was a tremendous task for architect Gerolamo Cassar. The Palace was one of his first architectural projects and definitely the most important and biggest secular building he ever had to plan. Construction began in 1572 and was finished two years later. In the meantime, Grandmaster Del Monte had died and was succeeded by La Cassière.

Cassar had to integrate both buildings, Eustachio’s house and the first Auberge d’Italie, into the new Palace. The old house of Eustachio del Monte can still be seen in the plan: the southwest part consists of smaller rooms than the rest of the building, and consequently, they belonged to the older house.

    The main façade of the Palace has always been criticised because of its immense length (some 96 metres) and its limited height of two storeys. Besides, the original building hardly showed any decoration: the two storeys were merely divided by the plain ledge on the façade, and simple frames surrounded the windows. Between the windows of the piano nobile and the roof one can find a large part of undecorated wall.  

The two main entrances, the balconies with the consoles (see photo) and the balustrade on the roof all originate from the 18th century. Consequently, Cassar's design must have been very austere. Only his characteristic rusticated corners serve as a decorative feature.  

    However, if one takes a closer look at the front façade, one can find a couple of mistakes that prove Cassar's difficulty when he tried to convert Eustachio's house and the Auberge d'Italie into the new Palace. First of all, the windows on the ground and first floors are all arranged without any visible rhythm. On the right part of the front façade they are placed much closer together than on the rest of the building.  

This inconsequent arrangement of the windows was caused by a failed integration of Eustachio's house, where the rooms were smaller and therefore the windows closer together. The five windows from the right belonged to his house. The middle one of these windows must have served as the entrance door, because it is a bit wider than the others and its distance to the neighbouring windows is larger.  

So Cassar was not able to obtain a unity in the façade design, which is reflected in the asymmetrical order of the windows. It is also obvious from the different designs of the corner rustications: on the southwest corner they consist of deeply cut cushion-like stone blocks – which become smaller to the top – while on the northeast corner (see photo) the rustications are formed as horizontal long and wide blocks that alternate with shorter and slimmer ones.

It is hard to reconstruct the original appearance of the Palace, but there are paintings that give some hints regarding its original state. A 17th century painting (see picture), which shows the Piazza S. Giorgio in front of the Palace, proves that the original entrance of the Palace was not in the centre but more to the right of the front façade. It appears exactly where Eustachio del Monte's house ended, namely after the fifth window from the right.

The second entrance as well as the balconies and the balustrade on the roof were still missing by that time, but one can make out a rustication in the middle of the façade that was later removed. As Cassar never applied rustications on a facade, but only on the corners of his buildings, one could assume that this rustication used to be the southwest corner of the first Auberge d'Italie, which was attached to Eustachio’s house.

This assumption proves to be right when one compares the façade rustication with the one on the northeast corner: they are of the same design. Traces of the removed rustication can still be seen on the façade, namely between the two windows that are placed right of  the left main entrance.

Another painting, dating from the time of Grand Master Perello (early 18th century), shows the Palace with some baroque interventions on the single entrance door. As this painting represents the Palace from a different view, it can be made out that the design of the eight windows on the right part of the ground floor was different from the other windows that are designed like today's ones. These eight windows are round-arched and surrounded by a rustication. They must have looked like the rusticated window that can still be found on the side façade of the Palace (see photo on left) on Archbishop Street. The side entrance on this façade (see photo underneath) shows a similar treatment, and it might have served as an inspiration for the door in the background of Caravaggio's masterpiece "The Beheading of St. John".  

Not only was the appearance of the façade totally changed by the baroque additions and alterations, but also the plan. Today's Palace consists of two courtyards, which are separated from each other by a corridor. But an engraving from 1631 shows that Cassar's design originally had only one central courtyard.

However, there is almost nothing known about the original appearance of the Palace's courtyard (see photo underneath). The panelled pilasters between the arcades seem to be a design by Cassar, because they can also be found, for example, in the courtyard of the Auberge d'Aragon.

The arcades on the first floor of the courtyard were walled up later. The original courtyard probably resembled the courtyard of the Roman Palazzo Farnese, which was designed by Sangallo and Michelangelo.

Another feature that is definitely a design by Cassar, is the huge stairway, which leads to the piano nobile. The flat marble stairs lead to a greater number of stairs, which need more space in the plan. This emphasised its architectural representation and importance. In fact, the staircase is the widest Renaissance staircase (c. 2,86 metres) of its kind in Europe.

As one can see from these observations, it is definitely not an easy task to reconstruct the original design of the Palace. It certainly was not one of Cassar’s most successful architectural works, but one should see the building as a historical monument, reflecting the grand epochs with their various Grand Masters, who used the Palace as their headquarters.

 

 

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