The first year of training "is the hardest"
Who Will Take Care of DOG?
The first few weeks were great! The kids took him out to play every morning before school. Every afternoon, they would rush home
to play with his new puppy, for the first few weeks. Then there interest began to turn to other thing! Now Mom had to ask several times
before the kids would take the puppy out or feed him or fill his water dish. Within two months of the puppy's arrival, the
child's "I promise" had turned into "OK, I WILL" or "DO I HAVE TOO!" And now Mom takes care of the pup all by herself.
That's if Dad is not yelling,
Most pets owning families could predict the outcome. Mom gets the job in even more households. Unfortunately, the decline
of the child's promise and the rise of Mom's responsibility often cause tremendous stress in the family relationship with the dog,
and the purpose for getting a dog in the first place becomes clouded in anger and frustration.
Families can avoid this by making some simple decisions before the puppy is purchased.
A dog should never be purchased without the expectation that the child's interest will slowly fad, but the dog's need for
attention will remain constant. This puts Mom in the hot seat from day one, and if Mom is uncomfortable there, the family
should forego the pet for at least six months and then reassess the situation.
A pet should not be purchased to either satisfy the child's demands, or to teach a youngster a sense of responsibility. Instead, the
pet should be welcomed as part of the family and the children encouraged to participate in it's care. A child should earn the right
to have a pet, any pet, of his own by joining the adults in the family in feeding, walking, and training the family dog.
Housetraining
The battle over puppy housetraining often sets a negative tone for the whole relationship with the dog, especially if a child has
promised faithfully to bear the burden of getting the dog outside. A little preparation here can avoid the tension and ease the
training process.
Here are some hints:
Puppies do not soil the house out of spite or stupidness; they soil the house because they have not been taught to do otherwise.
Keep there bathroom spot clean by picking up feces every day. Realize that a puppy should have a schedule, which he should be
taken to his outside relief spot last thing at night and first thing in the morning as well as after meals and naps, and that he should
be praised when he does his duty. Failures in housetraining are human mistakes, not puppy errors. Never punish for mistakes. If you
don't have the time or patience for the task of housetraining, you should not get a puppy!
Maybe you should get a rescue or adopt a dog from a shelter that is already housetrained, "YOU HOPE"
If a puppy reaches four or five months of age and is still having regular accidents in the house, make sure he does not have a
bladder infection, intestinal parasites, or other medical reason.
Manners
Along with housetraining, teaching manners to puppies before they develop bad habits is crucial to the rest of the dogs life.
Every day is a learning day for a puppy, and whether they learn manners and other appropriate behaviors is the responsibility of the
"adults in the family"! It is counterproductive to leave these responsibilities to the "child", even if the child has pleaded and promised
and pledged his undying devotion to the pup. Mom and Dad should be the one to decide whether the time is right to get a puppy or
dog with the full awareness that she and he will be responsible for the animal's well-being and for its integration into to family circle.
These are the make-or-break weeks; dogs that don't get proper training during this time are often relegated to the back yard or worse,
to the local animal shelter. Even an eight-week-old puppy can learn to sit before he gets a treat or a meal. He can also begin to
learn to walk on a leash, to ride quietly in the car, to wait before going out the door or jumping out of the car, and to keep his feet on
the floor when greeting guests. The key is gentle guidance, consistency, and consideration for a puppy's fragile spirit. The techniques
for teaching manners while guarding the puppy's temperament and personality make up obedience training.
A few dollars and a few hours spent in obedience training will pay big dividends. The family will have a dog that is truly a joy to have
around, a dog with manners that does not chew the furniture, steal cookies from the baby, jump on a house gust, or act like he's
"THE DOG FROM HELL"
Furthermore, a well-behaved dog does not disturb the neighbors; the neighbors do not complain to the government and the
government does not pass foolish laws limiting everyone's right to own a pet.
Were ever you live, in an Apartment, House in the city, suburbs or the country, there is a dog for you!
Many dogs, purebred and mixed breed, can live happily in the city as long as their needs for exercise and companionship are met.
Choosing an apartment dog requires a bit more research than choosing a dog for the suburbs or country. So when you go to buy a
dog "THINK"
Housetraining baby puppies
Baby puppies, under three months of age, have limited bladder control and reflexes. They usually don't know they're going to "go"
until the moment they do! It's not realistic to expect them to tell you ahead of time. If you watch, you'll see that a puppy who's
looking for a place to go will suddenly circle about while sniffing the floor. The sniffing is a "instinct" he's looking for a place that's
already been used. If he can't find one, he'll start one! By preventing accidents in the house, you'll teach him that the only appropriate
bathroom is the one outside!
Set up a dog crate
(The Smaller The Better.) Using a dog crate will be more effective. The size of the crate is important if it's too large, the puppy will
have room to use one end as a bathroom. "Do Not" buy a crate for him to grow into! As long as he can turn-around in it, it is just right!
If he must be left alone in the crate more than overnight, that is wrong. A crate is it bedroom, and a place to relaxation. (Not a jail)
Also in the crate should be some water (you can get one that attaches to the side of the crate, that is harder to spill) we use big water
bottles. We put sleeping pad and toys in them too.
Put the crate where he isn't shut away from the family. Your puppy might not like the crate at first. Don't give in to his complaining
or tantrums! If you're sure he isn't hungry or has to go relieve its self, ignore his yowling. If he gets really obnoxious, reaches inside
the crate; give him a little shake by the scruff of his neck and say NO in a deep, stern voice. One more thing that works to comfort
them, is a windup clock. The ticking of the clock helps to calm them down. Eventually he'll settle down and sleep which is what crates
are for! If you give a treat every time you put the dog in his crate is fine too.
The crate is intended to be his sleeping place and is where he should be when you can't keep a close eye on him. If you give him the
run of the house at this age two to nine months, you can expect accidents! Dogs instinctively keep their sleeping areas clean.
If you've allowed him to go out when he needs to, he won't dirty his crate if he can help it. Once he's developed better control you
can leave him in it for longer times. But remember, if he has a accident in the crate it most like is because he was left in too long!
Puppy's first night home, Start off on the right foot!
If you have never trained a puppy before it is your responsibility to make shore it is done right!
Do not let that little ball of fur get the better of you! Set him on the grass and let him stay there until he goes. When he does,
tell him how wonderful he is! After bringing the pup inside, you can play with him for an hour. Plan on taking the puppy outside
every two hours (at least) while he's awake. Don't wait for him to tell you that he has to go! This can get very frustrating, but if you
show her were to go! That's right! Were to go! Because this ball of fur just knows one thing, "I Got To Go!" It dose not know when or
were!
If you are done playing than put him in the crate. Don't let him out for half an hour and when you do, carry him outside to go before
you do anything else. Wait for him to go before bringing him back in. Some pups get their jobs done quickly, others may take half an
hour. If he's being slow, walk around the yard encouraging him to follow you. Walking tends to get things moving! Always take the
puppy outside first thing when you let him out of the crate and always "CARRY" the puppy to the door! This is important.
Puppies seem to have a reflex action that takes affect the moment they step out of the crate. If you let him walk to the door, he'll
probably have an accident before he gets there. After another short play period, take the pup outside before bedtime, then tuck him
into his crate for the night. If he cries during the night, he probably has to go out "Carry Him Outside" then put him back in the crate.
If you play with him, he might decide he doesn't want to go back to sleep! Puppies usually sleep through the night within a few days.
Were to Feed or Not to Feed? That is the question!
Feed the puppy in his crate is wrong. Just like everything in its life, it will have to be trained to eat at the dinner table! What did I say?
The dogs dish! Just seeing if you are still with me? Like everything in the puppies' life you have to teach it when and were it will eat.
The best place everybody will say is near the door, "why" after she eats, out the door it will go!
Daytime schedule
Establish a regular schedule of potty trips and feedings. This helps you to control the times he has to go out and prevent accidents
in the house. First thing in the morning before you have your coffee carry the puppy outside. He can then come in and play for an
hour. Feed breakfast. Then carry him back outside for awhile.
Puppies usually have a bowel movement after each meal so give him time to accomplish it.
Now he can have another inside playtime for an hour or so. Don't give him free run of the house, use baby gates or close
doors to keep him out of rooms he shouldn't go in. (Puppies are notorious for finding out of the way corners to have accidents in keep
him in an area where you can watch him). If you give him too much freedom too soon, he'll probably make a mistake. After playtime,
take him outside again then tuck him into his crate for a nap.
For the first month or so, you'll be feeding three or four meals per day. Repeat the same procedure throughout the day: outside
first thing in the morning, one hour playtime, go-time, meal, go-time, playtime, go-time, nap, go-time, playtime, meal, etc. The
playtimes can be lengthened as the puppy gets older and is more reliable. Eventually the puppy will be letting you know when
he needs to go out but remember if you ignore his request or don't move quickly, he will have an accident!
I know this sounds like a lot of work and it is! The results of all this runnin' in and out will pay off in a well-housebroken puppy and
clean floors and carpets. Keep in mind that some breeds are easier to housetrain than others and how the puppy was raised before
it came to you has an affect, too. Pet store puppies who were allowed to use wire-bottom crates have less inclination to keep their
crates clean. Puppies that were raised in garages or other large areas where they could "go" wherever will also be a little
more difficult. Don't give up though - you can train them, it will just take a little longer.
A word about paper-training:
It seems harmless to leave papers about "just in case" and for us who work all day, it's a necessity. However, paper-training
your pup will make the overall job of housetraining that much harder and take longer. By only allowing the pup to relieve itself
outside, you're teaching it that it's not acceptable to use the house. Using newspapers will override this training. Also, be aware that
many puppies get the notion that going "NEAR" the papers is as good as going "ON" them! If you must use newspapers when you're
gone, keep to the regular housetraining schedule when you're at home. Get the puppy outside often.
Keep your dog's yard picked up and free of old stools. Many dogs choose an area to use as a bathroom. If left to become filthy,
they'll refuse to use it and do their business in the house instead! If your dog has to be tied up when he's outside, keeping the
area clean is even more critical. If you could only move about in a small area, you wouldn't want to lie next to the toilet, would
you? Picking up stools helps you keep tabs on your dog's health as well. Stools should be firm and fairly dry. Loose, sloppy
stools can be an indication of worms, health problems, stress or digestive upset.
What to do if the puppy has an accident
Remember, this method of housetraining is based on "PREVENTING" accidents. By faithfully taking the dog out often enough, you'll
get faster results than if you discipline the puppy after the accident has already happened. If your puppy makes a mistake because
you didn't get him out when you should have! REMEMBER "It's Not His Fault!"
If you catch the pup in the act, stay calm. Holler NO while you scoop the puppy up immediately don't wait for him to stop piddling
and carry him outside to an area he's used before. As you set him on the ground, talk to him, and praise him as he finishes the job.
Leave him out a few more minutes to make sure he's done before bringing him back in.
This is a little trickier with an adult dog especially if he's new to you and you don't know how he'll react to being grabbed and thrust
outside. Holler NO and put a leash on to take him out and show him where the bathroom is. Make a point of getting the dog out more
often in the future!
"ANY" other corrections such as rubbing his nose in it, smacking with newspapers, yelling, beating or slapping only confuse and scare
the dog. If you come across an "old" accident, it really doesn't pay to get too excited about it. Dogs aren't smart enough to connect
a past act with your present anger and he won't understand what you're so mad about. He'll act guilty but it's only because he knows
you're mad at him. He has no real idea why you are correcting him.
Keep in mind that health problems, changes in diet and emotional upsets (moving to a new home, adding a new pet or family
member, etc.) can cause temporary lapses in housetraining. Diabetes in adult dogs and urinary tract infections in both puppies and
adults can cause dogs to have to urinate more often. Urinary infections in young female puppies are common. A symptom is frequent
squatting with little urine release. If you suspect a physical problem, please take your dog for an examination.
Sudden changes in dog food brands or overindulgence in treats or table scraps can cause diarrhea. Dogs don't need much
variety in their diets so you're not harming yours by staying to one brand of food. If you make a change, do it gradually by
mixing a little of the new food with the old, gradually increasing the amount of new food every day. A sudden change of water
can cause digestive upset, too. If you're moving or traveling, take along a couple gallons of "home" water to mix with the new.
Cleaning up accidents
If you've worked hard with this training method, you won't have many! Put your puppy (or adult dog) away out of sight while you
clean up a puddle. Dog mothers clean up after their babies but you don't want your puppy to think that YOU do, too! Clean up on
linoleum is self-explanatory. On carpeting, get lots of paper towel and continue blotting with fresh paper until you've lifted as much
liquid as possible.
There are several home-made and commercially available "odor killers" that are helpful. In a pinch, plain white vinegar will work
to help neutralize the odor and the ammonia in the urine. (Don't use a cleaner with ammonia - it'll make it worse!) Sprinkle baking
soda on the spot to soak up moisture and to help neutralize odor, vacuum when dry. At the pet store, you can find a good selection
of products that may be more effective. A diarrhea stain on carpeting or upholstery can be lifted with a gentle solution of lukewarm
water, dishwashing soap and white vinegar.
Puppies are attracted to urine odors and their noses are much better than ours! Even when using a commercial odor killer,
a teeny residue will be left behind that our dogs can smell. Keep an eye on that spot in the future! This remarkable scenting
ability does have an advantage - if you must paper-train your dog and he doesn't know what newspapers are for yet,
"house-breaking pads" are available at your pet store. They are treated with a mild attractive odor (too weak for us to smell),
so your puppy will gladly use them!
"PLEASE," REMEMBER! "It's Not His Fault!" if you do not get him out in time!
"Please Mom", I promise!"
" WHEN'S, THE LAST TIME SOMEONE FED AND WATER THE DOG!"
1. buy a puppy from a breeder who has already started housetraining by putting the puppies outside every morning and after
meals and praising when they relieve themselves.
2. Buy a crate and a baby gate or two to keep the puppy confined when you can not watch him.
3. Feed a dry food, preferably the brand used by the breeder.
4. Confine the puppy to rooms with tile or other washable flooring not carpets.
5. Feed on a schedule and take the puppy outside to the appropriate relief spot immediately after eating.
6. Don't play with the pup until he relieves himself. If he doesn't urinate and defecate within 10 minutes, bring him inside and place
him in his crate for 10-15 minutes, then try again. Then try taking him out on a leash to other spots to relieve him.
