PUPPY'S FIRST
A collar needs to be one of the first things you deal with when a new puppy comes home. I usually purchase a cheap nylon collar long enough to allow room for the puppy to grow. I put a collar on my puppies within the first day. My adult dogs have collars just loose enough to pull over their head (with a little difficulty), however, that is too loose for a puppy collar. A little leg can get caught in the collar very easily (especially since it is a new sensation around his neck). The puppy collar is put on so I can just fit a couple of my fingers under it.
Puppies do not like strange, new things. This collar will cause quite a trauma! Since pups cannot express their displeasure, or take their "paws" and try to remove it, they will scratch at it. This does not mean it "itches" it just means, it feels strange and somewhat uncomfortable. Since I have a leash on my puppies whenever I take them out to "go potty", they have to get used to a leash rather quickly! Puppies dislike a leash more than they do the collar.
When you first attach the leash to puppy’s collar let them drag it around for a little while “supervised, of course!” Next, pick up the end and let the puppy feel the resistance. You may experience anything at this point from crying to twisting the neck, bucking, pawing, some of the more resistant pups may actually urinate or defecate. Just remain calm and hold the leash. When the pup has calmed, you can either try the next step, or end the "lesson".
After the "big fight" is over, you can attempt to encourage the pup to follow you with gentle tugs and a lot of vocal encouragement. With very resistant pups, some delicious treats (soft, moist, TINY bits) can be great motivation. You should be upbeat and positive with the pup and there should be a lot of praise for correct behavior, walking with you while on the leash.
A couple of notes about leashes/collars:
Although I have never myself had a problem, and I do crate my dogs with collars on, I know of dogs that have died by getting their collars somehow caught on their crate. Crate manufacturers recommend NO collars when crated. Many pups, especially retrieving breeds, tend to mouth and chew their leashes. Generally, they outgrow this if it gets so bad that there is a tug of war happening every time you attempt to walk, try spraying the lower end of the leash with a bitter type spray or wrapping the leash in tin foil "Choke" or "Slip" collars, especially chain ones, are ONLY for training and should NEVER be left on a dog when the leash is not on! Be sure to check your puppy’s collar weekly and increase the size as they grow. Collars will imbed in dog’s necks!
Get an ID tag for your puppy’s collar as soon as possible.
COLLARS
The standard collar, the leash tension caused by a pulling dog is applied directly to the dog's larynx/trachea area causing discomfort for the dog as well as restricting the airflow through the windpipe. This is the reason why dogs "hack" when they pull on their leash.
Other than Standard
The breakaway collar, releases if caught on something, which reduces the risk of your dog being strangled or injured. The two D-rings on either side of the breakaway mechanism allow secure fastening to a lead just attach your lead to both D rings and it can't breakaway during a walk. When no leash is attached, the collar protects your dog in the back yard, around the house, around other dogs and out in the field by releasing if it gets tangled or caught.
The limited slip collar, a design tested over the ages by sled dogs, when you need to make your point the collar will tighten evenly around the dog’s neck. If you have a dog or puppy that turns around and pulls it head out of a standard collar, this collar will not let that happen as easily as a standard collar, and you will find that it is softer on the neck than a standard collar or steel choker.
Standard Halter & Training Halter
With a standard collar, the leash tension caused by a pulling dog is applied directly to the dog's larynx/trachea area causing discomfort for the dog as well as restricting the airflow through the windpipe. The limited slip collar will tighten evenly around the dogs neck but, if a dog pulls and fights well turned around could still pull it’s head out of a limited slip collar. This is the reason why Standard Halter & Training Halter for dogs is a best bet.
There are two types:
The Standard Halter, a design that fits around the front of the chest and back of the legs. This design gives the dog no choice, but still gives you no choice in control of the dog either. BUT, your puppy / dog "can not" pull or slip out of a halter!
The Training Halter has two straps that go around the bottom of the front legs and redirects the leash tension to the area behind your dog's front legs. The sensitive areas where the slight pressure applied by the pulling will stop your dog from pulling without much effort in-turn, giving you full control.
LEAD or LEASH
The Standard, from four-foot to ten-foot length, and some have two loop handles for short and long leads.
The Elastic Core, webbing lead stretches from five-foot to ten-foot length, using low-tension elastic core.
The Short Lead, a traffic handle positioned close to the snap hook is great to keep Fido close. This is key when you are walking a dog on a busy sidewalk or high traffic area’s and comes in lengths from 12 in. to 24 in.
The Retractable Cord Leashes with length up to 20ft. spring loaded reels let you control the length with the push of a button, from 2ft. to 20ft.
