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Classic Steel
Well, below-freezing temperatures and more snowfall have turned spring break 2003 into framebuilding vacation indoors. That's ok. I decided to build a classic road racing machine. Std diameter Columbus steel tubes, stamped lugs (Prugnant at the seat lug, RGF at the BB). Classic geometry as well: 56 cm ST, 55cm TT, 41.5 cm CS, 4.3 cm raked fork, 73/73 head and seat angles. Lovingly brass brazed in snowy MASS. ;-)
Above is the finished rear dropout. It was heavily modified from the originals (see below). Also, I ground down the raised part of the dropout face, and in place brazed in a stainless steel washer. Before the frame gets painted, I will buff the S.S. washer and mask during painting, so the dropout will appear to have a chromed dropout face.
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Here is the seat lug. The original
stamped seat bolt ears were chopped off, filed flush, and the resulting square
hole in the back of the lug filled with a steel "patch." Then a cast
seat binder boss was brazed on top, and then the seat stays were mitered to the
back of the bolt boss. 
Here is the bottom bracket after
clean-up. 
BB again
Brake bridge made from scrap
seat stay and two reinforcing plates. Little fillets made with
silver brazing.
Rear dropouts. On the
left is before reworking the dropout. On the right, it has been thinned,
recontoured, and brazed in place. Note the scallop method of joining the
dropout on the non-wheel side. 
Wheel side of the dropout.
This effect was created by heating the area, hammering the chainstay flat, and
finishing the brazing. The flattened chainstay can then be finish0filed
flat, or it can be filed to a gentle curve for a more artistic touch. This
flattening is necessary to make room for the rear cogs. More important on
teh drive side, but i do it on the non drive side for symmetry.
Here is the bottom of the
dropout. Notice the scallop on the non-wheel side, and the gentle curve on
the wheel side.