Information specific to 1993 Dodge Dakota’s I have found to be overlooked by popular repair and service manuals.
Information
may differ depending on how your truck is equipped.
|
Though helpful on most topics, Haynes manuals fall short on
more details or obscure subjects, especially in the trouble-shooting
department. |
I wish I had one of these, but most Dodge service centers will
let you look at or even photocopy their factory service manuals. Very detailed instructions, diagrams,
drawings, and schematics. It still
doesn’t help much with tough trouble-shooting though. |
The engine turns over, has spark, and has fuel, but will
not turn over on its own power.
Check the
crankshaft position sensor. It mounts on
the left side of the engine underneath the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation)
components, and is shaped like a “T”, with the standing part of the “T”
dropping into the bell housing. It is a
magnetic sensor that reads a mark on the crankshaft and tells the computer if
the crankshaft (and thus pistons) is on the exhaust or combustion stroke. Whether a stock or aftermarket replacement,
these sensors are poorly designed and will break with slight pressure. As a preventative measure, make sure to
remove the sensor anytime you will be removing the engine or bell housing.
My Antilock Brake/ Parking Brake dummy light only dims
when I release the emergency brake.
Chances are you have blown a fuse for your antilock brakes. There are two fuses, one located in the fuse box located under the dash by the hood release lever, and another in the power distribution box located in the engine compartment on the drivers’ side fender.
How do I remove the bed of my pickup?
1)
Disconnect the rear
lights by unplugging the plastic connector that is located on the driver side
frame rail near the back of the spare tire.
2)
It is not necessary,
but I remove the spare tire so I have more room to work.
3)
Open the gas filler
cover and unbolt the 3 screws holding the filler neck to the bed.
4)
Six bolts hold the bed
in place: 2 in the back, 2 behind the front leaf spring brackets, and 2 in the
front of the bed. All of these bolts
are accessible, but you will need at least 6” of ratchet extensions to remove
them.
5)
Have a helper or two plus
yourself lift the bed, being careful to reach underneath and keep the filler
neck from snagging on the bottom of the bed.
6)
Once the bed is
removed, you should place it on some blocks of wood or something that won’t
damage the paint.
