If you have any problems, questions and or concerns about my game, please feel free to talk to me about them, because its people like you that make this world a better place. You can reach me at 1-517-862-3798 or E-Mail me at tmacarthur@olivetcollege.edu.

Most people put a legal disclaimer on their work so that scam artists (such as your self) don’t make money off of other people’s work. But I don’t have the money to pay for a legal disclaimer, so for the safety of my work, I will simply deal with the problem’s myself. Though I may not have the money to pay for the shit I need, you however may, so if you would like a part in my creation get a hold of me and we will sit down or talk over the phone about it.

Project Altanya is a role-playing game based on the world of Altanya (a fictional fantasy world with endless possibilities). A world were Dragons rule the sky, Goblins raid villages and the Undead roam the night. This RPG is not a game for everyone because people like different game styles such as; a lot of dice rolling, millions of hit points’ and a system that allows you to get powerful quick. My game however doesn’t have millions of hit points or a lot of dice rolling. The system is designed to give a realistic/fantasy feeling to the game without taking the fun and mystery out of it.

___________________________________________________________________________

I would like to thank my play-testers and friends for helping me get this far and for putting up with my BS. Thank You… Bill Munn, Shane King, Elijah Jarred, Brian West, and Derrick Redman.

Altanya is a planet filled with natural wonders and adventures of your wildest dreams, from mythical creatures to legendary weapons. The world itself is not very big, from one side to the other is only 1800 sum miles, but the rivers and oceans make travel harder then what I make it sound. Most life that lives in Altanya is human, but that doesn’t mean you wouldn’t see cutthroat Dwarfs and rancid mummies. Though this game is based around the world of Altanya, feel free to use any other world or whatever suits you best. For best game settings and overall game play, I recommend you read up on the history and stats of everything I have available and familiarize yourself with the game rules before playing.

…As Val mire approaches the cave a vicious howl echo’s through the quiet night sending piercing chills down Bartholomew’s spine. " Val mire…I don’t think you should go in there…I think there’s something out here and I doubt it’s friendly." As Bartholomew watched his friend turn to speak he couldn’t help but notice a strange shadow creeping up on Val mire, before he could warn him the shadow struck a fatal blow piercing Val mire’s chest cavity. Bartholomew could only watch in horror as the shadowy image tore his friend apart, limb from limb, and in seconds what seemed like minutes Val mire was dead and Bartholomew was alone. As quick as the shadow attacked it descended back into the cave. Knowing Val mire was the only one who knew the way home, Bartholomew could only pray. Wasting no time he took off running into the woods grieving over the loss of his friend and fearing his life would be next. Now lost and alone, Bartholomew had to find his way home with nothing but a knife and the cloths on his back, he knew this would be no walk through town… this would be an adventure.

Section 1 (pg 4)- Character Creation

Section 2 (pg 5)- Attributes

Section 3 (pg 5)- Skills

Section 4 (pg 6-8)- Skill Listing

Section 5 (pg 8)- Combat

Section 6 (pg 12)- Armor/Items

Section 7 (pg 16-17)- Magic

Section 8 (pg 18)- Character Sheets

Section 9 (pg n/a)- Map (n/a)

During the creation process it’s best to have an idea of what you’d like your character to be. This is called a concept, and it helps a lot during creation. Some people spend hours developing ideas and choosing skills while others spend mere minutes. As an example maybe you wish to play out a sailor, craftsman, magician, fighter, or a noble. These are all concepts. From that, base what skills you’ll need so that later down the road your character will have no problem defeating his enemy’s or solving ancient riddles. Creating a character can be the hardest or funniest part of starting over, this is why a good DM gives every player a chance to survive by not letting the game get out of control or making it to hard. Even though it’s best to start every new character off the same, it helps if you make it different every time someone makes a new character.

As a character grows and matures, he will gain experience. In this game we award experience using plus points (+). This happens whenever the DM feels that it’s a suitable time for such (usually at the end of each sessions). I suggest 15 plus points per session. Note: players who do more should be rewarded with more plus points.

For higher power campaigns, a DM is encouraged to allocate even more points to the players. When a character raise’s a skill or ability, he/she can’t raise it more than once a session, for example, if their sword skill is a 4, then they could only raise that skill to a 5 for that session, they would have to wait until next session to raise that skill again unless the DM says otherwise.

Every character can be defined by several basic attributes that reflect a person’s physical qualities. These attributes determine what the characters can do physically and mentally. Note: Unarmed Combat is a sub-attribute to Attack.

Detection- The characters ability to notice details and hear noises others may not.

Swimming- Necessary for swimming without drowning if the water is over one’s head. For every 15 pounds a character has on them, such as an extra sword or an armor piece, minus 1 point from their swimming role.

Jumping- Used for attempting to leap for height or distance.

Climbing- The basic ability to climb up, down or even side to side, on or over, an object.

Strength- Simply how strong a character is, strength is a determining factor for figuring out the damage modifier for combat, as high strength characters pack more of a punch.

Attack- Simply how well a character can hit his/her target with a melee or missile weapon. (Unarmed Combat- how well you can fight without a weapon)

Parry- The ability to block and dodge incoming attacks in combat.

Gloriette- How swift a person is on his or her feet, this also acts as an initiative and speed of a character.

Whenever a skill is used, the DM determines the difficulty of that skill attempt. This doesn’t mean the DM has to tell the player what the target number is.

All (non-sleeper) skills are done by rolling a 12-sided die. A successful role is when you role higher or you meet the target number given by the DM.

Difficulty Range Difficulty

0-10 Simple

11-20 Average

21-30 Hard

31-40 Impossible

41-50 Heroic

51-60 Legendary

There are other ways to learn skills other than by experience. Those ways are known as training and research. Learning from a person 3x or higher in a particular field than the character may help increase skills or abilities. Though this is a slow process that requires a great amount of time and often money, in the end the results are for the better.

Sleepers are skills that don’t do anything until they reach a certain level. For example the skill Sword, when it reaches level 16 the character gets 2 attacks every other round, but until then the skill just means he/she can use that type of weapon. On the skill listings you will see (slp) after some skills. The (slp) means they are sleeper skills. When a character goes up in sleeper levels they keep their previous sleeper level abilities. For example, when they reach level 35 they also keep level 29’s abilities. Note: if a level adds a modifier +/- and the next level adds a larger +/-, the bigger modifier would take over. Here is a list of the sleeper skills.

Level 10- Adds 2 crit point back to the spot rolled for. Player can only role once per spot.

Level 18- Adds 3 crit points back to the spot rolled for. Player can only role once per spot.

Level 30- At this level, the spot rolled for is fixed completely, but player can only fix one spot a day.

Level 10- Attack negative is reduced by one while light armor is worn. Exc. –2 becomes –1. If armor is already at –0, then it does not go to +1, it stays at –0.

Level 15- Attack negative is reduced to 0 while light armor is worn.

Level 17- Player gains a +1 to attack while light armor is worn.

Level 20- Player gains a +3 to attack while light armor is worn.

Level 10- Attack negative is reduced by one while medium armor is worn. Exc. –2 becomes –1. If armor is already at –0, then it does not go to +1, it stays at –0.

Level 15- Attack negative is reduced by two while medium armor is worn.

Level 17- Attack negative is reduced by three while medium armor is worn.

Level 20- Player gains +2 to attack while medium armor is worn.

Level 10- Attack negative is reduced by one while heavy armor is worn. Exc. –2 becomes –1. If armor is already at –0, then it does not go to +1, it stays at –0.

Level 15- Attack negative is reduced by three while heavy armor is worn.

Level 17- Attack negative is reduced by four while heavy armor is worn.

Level 20- Attack negative is reduced by six while heavy armor is worn, and player gains a +3 to attack.

Level 16- 2 attacks every other round.

Level 23- 2 attacks every round.

Level 29- Once in a combat he/she can have character deal double damage automatically.

Level 35- 3 attacks a round.

Level 12- You get +2 to damage when fighting with a non-weapon object like a chair.

Level 19- 2 attacks a round.

Level 17- You get a +1 to your d6 roll for healing.

Level 25- You get +3 to your healing role.

Level 32- You can heal area completely.

Level 25- At this level, the 11 on the twelve-sided die also deals double damage making it easier for a character to deal double damage during combat.

Level 40- At this level, the 10 on the twelve-sided die also deals double damage when rolled during combat making this character a leather warrior.

Level 15- At this level the character gets one follower and for every two levels beyond this one they get another. Note: the followers should have half of the characters attributes until the character reaches higher levels in leadership. (These levels are up to the DM)

Level 10- This level adds a modifier of a +1 to your attack while riding an animal.

Level 20- This level adds a modifier of a +2 to your attack while riding an animal and adds an additional +1 for every 3 levels after this.

Level 12- Can block 2 times every other round.

Level 17- Can block 2 times every round.

Level 23- You get a counter attack every time someone in combat attacks you.

Level 30- Can attack equally well with a shield as you could when you parry with it.

Level 10- At this level the character gets a +1 to hit for their throwing and for every 3 levels beyond this they get an additional +1.

Level 20- Can attack twice a round.

Level 30- Can attack 4 times a round.

Level 42- Gets additional plus 2 to damage for unarmed.

Level 18- Adds 2 crit points back to the weapon or armor rolled for.

Level 28- Can fix weapon/armor completely.

What is a character without his God given talents? It would seem that skills are an important part of role-playing, thus it would seem that players would want a lot of skills to choose from.

Acrobatics- This includes feats of agility and strength, such as tightrope walking, somersaulting, and any other gymnastic attempt.

Agriculture- Planting and tending to produce food for consumption.

Alchemy- With this skill characters can make potions, brew antidotes, or make beer.

Animal handling- The ability to raise and train animals properly. This skill also allows one to diagnose problems with an animal.

Armor repair- Characters can fix armor with a successful role giving 1 crit point back. Can only role once per location of armor.

Armor, Light (slp)- This skill allows one to move more efficiently while wearing Light armor. This skill has no effect on helmets.

Armor, Heavy (slp)- This skill allows one to move more efficiently while wearing Heavy armor. This skill has no effect on helmets.

Armor, Medium (slp)- This skill allows one to move more efficiently while wearing Medium armor. This skill has no effect on helmets.

Axe (slp)- Combat use of an axe type weapon such as; Battle axe, Double-Bladed axe, Hatchet, Pick, and War-Hammer.

Blacksmithing- This skill allows one to manipulate steel into objects such as weapons or armor by heating the metal and using proper tools’.

Boating- The ability to control a boat or ship while out at sea or even in stormy conditions.

Bow (slp)- Ability to fire a bow or crossbow. Any role of a one on the twelve-sided die, results in the string breaking.

Brawling (slp)- This skill allows a person to fight with non-weapon objects like chairs, tables and bear mugs with out any negatives.

Building- Simply how well a character can build structures like a house or a boat, this also can be used for repairing structures.

Club (slp)- Bashing an opponent horribly in combat with a blunt object such as: Club, Large Club, Light Mace, Heavy Mace, Morning Star, Nun Chucks or a Tonfa.

Cooking- The basic ability to cook and prepare food.

Dancing- The ability to perform various dances.

Detect Traps- With this a character can find traps before they are set off.

Direction sense- This skill enables a person to stay on course while traveling overland by means of observation.

Disable Traps- With this a character can disable a trap without hurting his/her self or others.

Disguise- The art of changing one’s image to look like someone else using wigs and make up.

Flail (slp)- The skill of using a Grain Flail or Military Flail in a fight.

First aid (slp)- The basic knowledge of treatment of one’s injuries and shock. Higher levels in this skill allow one to perform surgery. A player can only role three times per person a day. Heals 1 die 6 points back to spot rolled for. Can only heal wounds that are not useless or gone.

Forging- A character can make a copy of an object with a successful roll. For example; a letter, map, insignias.

Gaming- A skill that involves playing games of chance and luck such as card games.

Heraldry- The ability to distinguish and recognize various coats of arms and insignias.

Hide- The ability to not be seen by either covering or concealing one’s self behind or in objects.

Improved Critical (slp)- This skill improves the critical threat range of your attack.

In scripting- Drawing designs in objects such as wood, paper or even people.

Instructing- With this a character can teach someone a skill properly.

Instrument- With this skill a character can successfully perform with a musical instrument.

Knife (slp)- Fighting with a Knife, Hunting Knife, Dagger, and a Punching Dagger in combat.

Languages- Each language counts as a different skill.

Leadership (slp)- Simply how well liked the character is and at higher levels they obtain followers.

Literacy- This is the ability to read and write a language.

Lock picking- The character knows the methods and tools for opening locks, along with devising them.

Lore’s- Knowledge of certain subjects. Each type of knowledge can easily be broken down into separate skills. Examples include minerals, plants, animals, poisons, and so forth. When a character has a lore of a certain subject, he has more knowledge of that subject than an average person.

Map Making- The ability to make or trace maps of the terrain in which you have explored or seen.

Mounted Combat (slp)*- With this a character can fight while mounted to an animal. Please see section 5, G1 for more information on mounted fighting.

Oratory- Being able to speak successfully in public.

Persuasion- With this a character can convince someone into doing something they normally wouldn’t do. For example; talking someone into giving you more for your weapon, or selling a gem to you for less than what its worth, and if your lucky having someone tell you about a hidden treasure. The person being targeted must role a counter persuasion of a 1d12 plus their persuasion skill.

Pick pocket- Basic sleight of hand. Being able to steel from one’s pocket. This skill also allows a character to steal items off of tables and benches without being seen.

Riding- Being able to stay on a horse at any pace where the rider must control the horse or be thrown off.

Rope use- With this skill you can use ropes with little or no effort like being able to hog tie someone in mere seconds.

Sculpting- The art of forming objects into objects.

Seduction- This allows a character to woo and enrapture a member of the opposite sex by means of talking or touching. Note: Depending on your DM, this skill also works on members of the same sex.

Shadowing- This allows one to trail a person around, either in a city or out of a city, and not be noticed.

Shield (slp)- Defending with a shield.

Singing- The ability to please an audience through singing.

Skiing- This ability allows one to ski downhill or cross-country.

Sling (slp)- Hitting someone or something with a sling.

Spear (slp)- Fighting with a spear type weapon such as: a Glaive, Halberd, Javelin, Light Lance, Heavy Lance, Pike, Quarterstaff, Sickle, Half Spear, Short Spear, Long Spear or Trident.

Stealth- Helps the character to move quietly, slowly, and carefully.

Sword (slp)- Combat with a sword type weapon such as a; Claymore, Cutlass, Katana, Dire Katana, Rapier, Saber, Scimitar, Bastard Sword, Broad Sword, Great Sword, Short Sword, Long Sword or Tulwar.

Throwing (slp)- With this a character can throw objects or weapons with improved accuracy such as; throwing knives, throwing axe’s, throwing stars, half spears, short spears, trident, javelin, and darts.

Tracking- The ability to follow an animal or person by the visible signs left on the ground or on the natural environment. When on the trail of someone or something a tracking role must be made every couple minutes of game time.

Trapping- The ability to make traps with ropes, holes, twigs and any other means of devices you can think.

Two-Weapon Fighting- This skill allows an individual to wield two one-handed weapons in combat at the same time. This skill can only be bought when the character has reached level 16 with a weapon of choice. For more information, please see section 5, G6 on multiple attacks.

Unarmed Combat (slp)- This skill improves the characters unarmed fighting abilities.

Weapon Repair (slp)- Characters can fix weapons and armor with a successful role giving 1 crit point back. Can only role once per weapon or armor.

Section 5- COMBAT

Combat is a skill contest where people try hurting or killing other persons. Though combat can sometimes be the best part of roll playing, try not to let it get out of hand. The table below shows the different types of weapons and there damage. The table also shows the crit the weapon has, what the weapon is classified as (axe, sword, exc.), and cost. Note: the prices are not sit in stone, they are just mere guidelines to help the DM and the players.

~ = See Armor * = N/A

Not all weapons of the same category fight the same way. If you fight with a short sword that doesn’t mean you can fight equally well with a long sword. Same goes for other weapon classes. When a player picks a new weapon skill they must specify what type of weapon is going to that skill. For example: short sword, long sword, katana, and exc.

Arrow(s), Barbed- Commonly used for fishing, these arrowheads feature 2-6 backwards-facing barbs, ensuring they stick in the target when they hit. If removed carelessly, they cause an extra point of damage, and take twice as long to remove as a normal arrow.

Arrow(s), Blunt-Headed- These are common arrows simply made without arrowheads, and are used to hunt small animals without ruining their pelt.

Arrow(s), Flaming- These arrows typically feature a hollow wooden or cloth head, filled with fabric that has been doused in a flammable substance, making it extremely flammable, easy to light, and difficult to extinguish. They are used to ignite flammable tar and make useful signal flares in dark conditions. Needless to say, flaming arrows are one-use items, as they tend to burn away.

Arrow(s), Frog Crotch- This unusual arrow has a V-shaped arrowhead, the two prongs of which form the points of the arrows inside edge of the V are sharpened, making this arrowhead well suited to severing rope or cord.

Arrow(s), Grappling- The grappling arrow features a scaled-down grappling hook as a head, and trails a strong but light length of cord. The grappling arrow is used to reach locations the user would not otherwise be able to throw a grappling hook. Note: This arrow only works for light weighted characters due to the small grappling head.

Arrow(s), Hummingbulb- The bulbous tip of this arrow is carved and hollow, producing a loud, high-pitched whistle that can be heard up to a mile away in good weather conditions, making it a useful signaling device. Hummingbulb arrows explode on any firm impact, making them one-use items.

Arrow(s), Message- The screw-apart shaft of a message arrow has a narrow, hollow compartment into which a small piece of parchment may be slipped. In all other ways, it behaves as a normal arrow.

Axe, Battle- A large two- handed axe.

Axe, Double-Bladed- A large two-handed axe with blades on both sides.

Blow gun- a long hollowed out piece of wood used to shoot darts.

Bolt(s)- A short piece of wood with a sharp-point on one end and 2 feathers to help guide it on the other. This is used for crossbows.

Bow, long- A ranged infantry weapon that has long range and heavy impact.

Bow, short- A basic bow made of one or two pieces of wood.

Claymore- A two-handed weapon close to 5lbs heavier than a bastard sword and looks a lot like a long sword.

Club- One/two-handed weapon made from a piece of wood.

Club, Large- One/two-handed weapon made from a larger piece of wood.

Crossbow, hand- A miniature crossbow easily held with one hand.

Crossbow, large- A large bow laid across a stock, which is not only the guide for the bolt but is also the handle. This weapon may only be used every other round due to reloading.

Cutlass- One/two-handed single- edged sword.

Dagger- A short bladed weapon less than 16 inches in length.

Dagger, Punching- A 6 inch blade attached to a handle formed to fit your hand were the blade is held between the index and middle finger.

Dart(s)- A small missile weapon with a sharp tip on one end, used for throwing or shooting from a blowgun.

Flail, grain- One-handed peasant’s farming tool for which the military flail is based upon, consisting of a handle with a freely swinging bar for threshing grain.

Flail, military- A one/two-handed weapon with a flail head mounted on a short chain connected to a shaft of wood about 2 feet long.

Gauntlet- A metal glove.

Gauntlet, Spiked- A metal glove with spikes wear the knuckles are.

Glaive- A two-handed, 2-meter long pole with a meat cleaver like head.

Halberd- A two-handed, 2-meter long pole with an axe head upon one end and a pick on the other.

Hatchet- A small one-handed axe.

Hunting knife- A knife used for cutting through bone and hide.

Javelin- A long one-handed spear (with a weighted blade for throwing) used to hit enemies from a distance.

Katana- A one edged, one-handed sword, that’s slightly curved.

Katana, Dire- A one edged, one/two-handed sword that’s slightly curved and weighs 4lbs more than a katana.

Lance, Light- A long spear (usually used in jousting competitions) that breaks easily.

Lance, Heavy- A heavy lance is the same as a light lance, except its not meant to break, usually cavalry uses them.

Mace, Light- A one-handed shaft with a heavy weight on one end.

Mace, Heavy- One/two-handed shaft with a spiked metal ball on one end and is about 5 pounds heavier.

Machete- A sword like blade used for hacking through underbrush with relative ease. In dire circumstances, this weapon can be used as a melee weapon, however, it gets a –1 penalty to the damage roll when it strikes and there is a good chance that it breaks.

Morning star- Similar to the heavy mace, but the handle is made of metal instead of wood.

Nun chucks- Two pieces of wood held together by a chain.

Pick- Similar to a double bladed axe but instead has a spike on one side and a gardening ho on the other.

Pike- A two-handed twelve-foot long poleaxe.

Quarter staff- A thick one/two-handed combat ready walking stick.

Rapier- A thin one-handed sword that looks like a giant needle with a handle used for dueling. (Zoro used this)

Saber- A short double sided, one-handed blade just a little bigger than a short sword.

Scimitar- A single edged and moderately curved one/two-handed sword.

Sickle- The best way to describe this two-handed weapon is simple; it’s the grim reapers weapon of choice.

Sling- A leather thong with a cup to hold a rock.

Spear, Half- This is a smaller version of the small spear and is a little quicker.

Spear, large- 3 meters long and designed to be used with two hands.

Spear, small- A one handed spear.

Sword, bastard- A two-handed double-edged sword used to tear through armor.

Sword, broad- One and a half meters of steel used to slash and cut opponents. This weapon can only be used with two hands

Sword, great- Close to 30lbs in weight and two meters in length, this two-handed weapon is usually used by barbarians.

Sword, short- A one-handed weapon slightly larger than a dagger.

Sword, long- A two-handed double-edged sword approximately one and a half meters in length.

Throwing axes- A small axe balanced out so the blade hits first.

Throwing knives- A small knife balanced out so the blade hits first.

Throwing Stars- Small round sharp disc’s with 3 or more blades that always stick in the intended target if thrown properly.

Tonfa- Looks identical to a nightstick.

Trident- A three-pronged two-handed spear.

Tulwar- A large curved one/two-handed sword.

War-hammer- A large hammer with a giant spike at the opposite end of the hammerhead. This weapon weighs close to 30 lbs.

Fighting can be the most complicated part of any role-playing game if you are not sure what you are doing. Before any combat takes place (depending on the situation and if the DM says otherwise), All contestants will roll for his or her Gloriette to determine who has first action. This is done by rolling a six-sided die and adding the results to the players Gloriette, thus giving them their total Gloriette for their first action. Who’s ever total is higher gets first action. Now that we have figured out who gets to make the first choice, each contestant then rolls for his or her combat round. To figure out a contestant’s combat round, just role a 12-sided die, just add their Attack or Parry (depending on what their doing) to what they rolled and they would have their Attack or Parry for this round. (Remember, when a player Attack’s or Parry’s, they must mention what weapon or shield they are Attacking or Parrying with). Whomever rolls higher would hit or Parry for that round. Each character gets a chance to Attack and Parry every other round. For example, if I attacked this round then they would get a chance to Parry. After I attacked then they would get an Attack and I would have a chance to Parry.

If a character doesn’t have a certain weapon skill and they try to fight with that weapon, then they would only roll the 12-sided die and not add any combat pluses unless the DM say’s otherwise. If a character looses his/her dominant hand, then he/she would minus their Attack & Parry in half, and any skill’s that required the dominant hand would also be halved. When leveling up a skill or attribute that required the dominate hand, the skill or attribute will cost 2x the amount of what it did before showing slow offhand progression. Loosing a leg in combat would render them useless.

Hit location is used to make combat different every time a character fights. To determine where you hit you would role a 20-sided die to see where your attack landed. Here is a chart to show hit locations and health points:

16- R Foot 12(2) 6- L Foot 12(2)

Damage is determined by rolling 1d6 + weapon damage + strength – armor. When a player roles a 6 for damage he/she may role again until they stop rolling 6’s. For example: Say I rolled a 6 on the six-sided die, I would then role again until I did not role a six on the die. After I got my total for the dice roles, I would then add the rest of my damage. On the hit location chart you will notice two different numbers to the right, one’s in parentheses and one’s not. The number to the far right is what your health can go to before it is useless, at 0 it is cut off or their dead. The one to the left of the parentheses is there life max in that category and the number to the far left before the name of the location are the numbers any player must role in order to hit that location.

Any role of 12 is considered a critical hit which does double damage for that hit. Any roll of an 11 automatically gives a +1 bonus permanently to the skill you just rolled for. This bonus can only be added during combat. Note: A player can’t go in the woods and attack a tree, animals, or targets to gain the +1 bonus. Any one/two-handed weapon used with both hands does an additional 1-point of damage. This works well for fighters.

The Durability of a sword (Crit) is how much it can take before the weapon/shield breaks. For example, say an opponent is attacking and he/she rolled a critical hit and I blocked it with my weapon, I would then minus 1 crit point from my weapon. When the crit of a weapon or shield goes below 0, the weapon or shield, (depending on what was used to block with) would break. If a player blocks with a weapon/shield that has a crit of 0, then the weapon would break even without a critical attack.

Combat is a primary part of role-playing games and thus must be detailed in any RPG. A combat round is an abstract measure of time that is approximately 3 to 5 seconds long. In 5 seconds a person walking could move 15-20 feet. Anytime a player takes something out or puts something away during combat, that players combat turn would be replaced by the action they just did.

Mounted combat rules are modified allowing for limited dodge and combat maneuvers. Attack & Parry can be no higher than that person’s Mounted Combat skill while fighting on an animal.

A called shot is where you aim at a single target like the head. A called shot results in you halving your attack, every round you aim with a missile weapon you get a +2 to hit (no more than +10).

A character cannot guarantee that they’ll hit their intended target when firing into a melee. The chance of hitting a particular person is hard. For every person beyond the first, give the shooter a -2 for their roll. For example: there are three men you would then get a –4 on your shot for having two other people in the same area. The DM should role to determine which person got struck if the character fails at their attack. Of course, the intended target might still be hit.

Being that a missile weapon takes good accuracy, a player must role higher than 15 to hit his/her target at all times. This also shows that over time he/she may always hit his/her target unless something stops it.

This is easily done by using a –5 modifier for the die role per extra opponent beyond the first. As against 4 opponents there would be a –15 to the die role against each opponent. Either a single role may be made or multiple roles whatever the DM chooses.

Multiple attacks make’s a great warrior. No great fighter has ever won a fight without throwing a combo in. When any player reaches an Attack or Parry level of 20, he or she automatically gets two Attacks or Parry’s per round, but their attack is cut in half permanently and their off hand is cut in half by ¾. For example: a characters Attack is at +20, the dominate-hand would drop to a +10 and that characters off hand would drop to a +5. Leveling up is still done the same. When an 11 is rolled on the twelve-sided die, you would sill add the +1 bonus to the Attack or Parry, that player rolled for. For example: if I attacked with my right arm (+10) and rolled an 11, I would add the +1 bonus to that hand only now making my attack for my right hand a +11 and my left hand would stay the same (+5). Over time, it is possible for a player to have there off hand attack better than their dominate-hand attack showing skill progression.

Natural healing can be a slow and drawn out process. No one likes long healing so have characters role a 1D4 every day to see what he or she healed back for each category unless they have lost or wounded their arm to the point of useless, then they would have to see a doctor to heal it.

Since this is a fantasy game and combat is a very real part of it, it makes sense that characters would want to protect themselves from being wounded in battle. Thus, armor comes into play. The defense value of armor is the amount of damage (per attack) that is subtracted. When a critical attack hits the armor minus 1 point off that spot permanently. This shows wear in armor.

Any magical armor is for the DM to decide armor wise and cost wise. Boots and Gloves provide the same armor value as the armor of its type. For boots and gloves I would multiply their AV by 5, giving you an estimated amount. As for other armor parts, some can be worn without the entire suit, like shin guards or thigh plates. All armor affects people in combat situations. To make sure you don’t make it impossible for a character to make a good attack, look at the attack negative for armor and to make sure you can still see, look for the helmets detection negative.

C= Chest B= Belly A= Arms L= Legs

N= Neck F= Feet H= Head * =

Banded- This armor is much like scale but the metal plates lock into one another. The helmet has an open face with a strip of metal covering the nose.

Breast Plate- This armor is a giant metal vest that covers the chest, commonly used in combat.

Brigandine- Armor made by fastening metal scales using metal rivets between 2 layers of leather. The helmet has an open face.

Bone- Bones imbedded into a suit of chain armor with spikes coming from the shoulders. The helmet is a giant skull with ridged metal rivets sticking out of the top.

Chain- A single, light layer of metal links woven together to form a body of armor. An under garment was always worn as chain is chafing to wear, but requires no backing like lamellar. The helmet is a layer of metal links woven together covering everything but the face and protecting the neck.

Chain Shirt- Same as Chain, but only covers the upper body.

Cuirobouilli- Boiled in oil and wax, in this condition, leather can be molded into any desired shape and left to harden. The helmet is the same as the armor but doesn’t cover the face.

Hide- Much like Cuirobouilli, but not as easy to move around in. the helmet is the same as the armor but doesn’t cover the face.

Lamellar- This is like studded leather but with metal strips held onto leather backing. The helmet is a piece of leather with a metal strip running from the forehead to the back of the head and has a spike on the top.

Leather- Equivalent to a leather jacket or vest. The helmet is just a piece of leather that covers the head and not the face.

Padded- This armor is softer than leather but provides the same protection as leather and protecting the neck. The helmet is the same as leather.

Plate, Half- Half plate is the same as full plate but the metal wasn’t heated as long making the metal softer and the metal is a darker metal. The helmet covers everything and has one slot for the eyes and five slots for the mouth. The face of the helmet opens.

Plate, Full- Rigid, half-inch thick steel, covering the body. Plate is very expensive and very few can afford it. The helmet covers everything and has two slots for the eyes and three small holes for the mouth. The face of the helmet doesn’t open and there is a spike at the top.

Quilted- Two layers of cloth, stuffed with straw, sewn together. The helmet is the same and doesn’t cover the face.

Ring- Soft leather or other backing with metal rings sewn to it. The helmet is the same as the armor and doesn’t cover the face.

Scale- Such armor consists of overlapping scales of various sizes and shapes fastened onto a backing. The helmet is solid metal and has a nosepiece that is a little wider than a Banded helmet.

Splint- This armor consists of overlapping sheets of metal fastened onto a suit of thin ring mail with a leather under garment. The helmet consists of leather with a metal sheet covering the head and face leaving a giant slot for the user to see through.

Studded Leather- Similar to leather, but instead has two layers of leather with 3 strips of metal running down the back and the front. This helmet is similar to an old-fashioned motorcycle helmet.

War gear- Hard leather with metal sewn into it making it easier for the wearer to move during combat with little or no effort. This helmet protects the face and head, much like a ski mask, but made of hard leather.

Buckler- A small shield that straps to one’s arm.

Shield, Small- A small shield that resembles a Buckler but is just a little bigger.

Shield, Medium- A shield that covers the forearm and upper body. Bow fire is hard while wearing a medium shield.

Shield, Large- A shield that covers the upper torso. Bow fire is almost impossible while wearing a large shield. These shields are very large and awkward and most characters wouldn’t want the burden.

Shield, Tower- A shield that covers the entire body but is too heavy to maneuver around with. Bow fire is impossible, for the entire body is concealed.

The backpack is there to show the character how much stuff they can carry. The section in the middle is for the bigger objects such as books, shovels, armor, exc. These items are not a set price, there just here to help you get an idea. Anything missing is up to the DM to decide. Note: if a character has to much weight on them, it will make it harder for them to move and swim

Item Cost

Back pack 1 silver

Ballista

Heavy 500 gold

Light 350 gold

Blanket(s)

Poor 2 copper

Good 8 copper

Winter 1 gold

Wool 2 gold

Breathing Tube 2 silver

Boat(s)

Paddle (6ft) 15 gold

Raft (4ft) 5 gold

Sail (125ft) 900 gold

Transport (180ft) 2,245 gold

Tug (97ft) #9; 1,793 gold

War (231ft) #9; 4,139 gold

Book(s), blank 20 gold

Boot(s)

Poor 2 copper

Good 4 copper

Royal 1 silver

Waterproofed 4 silver

Bucket 2 silver

Camouflage Paint Kit 5 gold

Camp Cooking Kit 15 gold

Candle (can see 5ft) 1 copper

Crate (100 candles) 9 silver

Canteen 6 silver

Cards, Playing 2 silver

Chain Leash 3 gold

Chest(s)

Small 2 silver

Medium 1 gold

Large 4 gold

Climbers Kit 7 gold

Cloak

Poor 4 silver

Good 1 gold

Royal 2 gold

Clothes

Poor 3 copper

Good 1 silver

Royal 5 silver

Compass 400 gold

Drink(s)

Bear 8 copper

Dwarven Spirit 1 gold

Elven Spirit 8 silver

Goats milk 4 copper

Juice 3 copper

Wine

New 3 silver

8 years old 4 gold

15 years and up 13 gold

Falconry Gauntlet 5 silver

First Aid Kit 5 gold

Fishing Rod 6 silver

Fishing Tackle 2 silver

Flask 5 silver

Flint & Steel 4 silver

Food(s)

Grains 1 copper

Cheese 4 copper

Egg’s 2 copper

Fruits 2 copper

Meats 2 silver

Vegetables 3 copper

Fur(s) 3 gold

Grappling hook 1 gold

Glass-cutter 80 gold

Hammer 4 silver

Hour glass (sand clock) 15 gold

Ink 1 gold

Instrument

Flute 5 silver

Guitar 9 silver

Trumpet 1 gold

Others DM?

Jar(s)/Vile(s), empty 6 copper

Lamp (can see 15ft) 2 gold

Lantern(s)

Bulls eye (can see 60ft) 6 gold

Hooded (can see 25ft) 4 gold

Lock(s)

Poor 3 silver

Good 2 gold

Royal 9 gold

Map(s) 7 silver

Mirror 7 silver

Nails (50) 1 silver

Oil, Lamp (15ft) 5 silver

Parchment (paper) 5 silver

Pet(s), Trained (untrained –half)

Bird, Messenger 2 gold

Cat 5 gold

Cheetah 40 gold

Dog(s)

Guard 4 gold

Hunting #9; 7 gold

War 29 gold

Donkey(s) 50 gold

Elephant(s)

War 400 gold

Work 290 gold

Falcon 22 gold

Hawk 20 gold

Horse(s)

Riding 80 gold

War 120 gold

Work 55 gold

Lion ; 55 gold

Monkey 15 gold

Panther 42 gold

Tiger ; 50 gold

Pipe(s), Smoking 3 silver

Potion(s) DM?

Pouch(s)

Small 1 silver

Medium 4 silver

Large 8 silver

Quill (feather for writing) 2 gold

Quiver (for arrows) 4 copper

Rain Poncho 6 gold

Ration(s)

1 day’s worth 2 silver

1 week’s worth 1 gold

Robe(s)

Poor 1 silver

Good 7 silver

Royal 1 gold

Rope

Hemp

5 feet 1 silver

50 feet 1 gold

100 feet 2 gold

Saddle 1 gold

Saddle bags 2 silver

Saw 2 silver

Scent Lure 3 gold

Scroll case 1 gold

Sheath (for weapon) 6 copper

Sheath, Wrist 3 silver

Shovel 7 silver

Signal Whistle 5 silver

Sleeping bag 3 silver

Snowshoes 2 silver

Spy-glass (telescope) 15 gold

Star Chart 100 gold

Survival Kit 10 gold

Tent

Bell 4 gold

Bundle 20 gold

Pyramid 15 gold

Wedge 5 gold

Thieves Kit 20 gold

Tobacco 4 silver

Trap(s)

Enclosing 5 gold

Killing 3 gold

Torch (10ft) 1 gold

Underwater Goggles 7 gold

Wagon

Small 3 gold

Medium 7 gold

Large 11 gold

Wet Stone (for sharpening) 3 silver

Wilderness Harness 2 gold

Boots, Waterproofed- These thick boots are made of tough, water-resilient hide treated with waterproofing oil. The wearer tucks his/her paints inside the boots, then ties them near the knees with a leather drawstring. The boots keep the feet dry, even when wading in water.

Breathing Tube- This simple device helps a character function underwater. A breathing tube made of a hallow reed, about a foot long, strengthened with a wax and treated with waterproofed oil. The user places the tube in his/her mouth, and then submerges his/her self with the tube protruding from the water. The tube enables the submerged user to breathe indefinitely.

Camouflage Paint Kit- This compact leather case contains several cakes of greasepaint (in various shades of brown, green, yellow, white, and black), applicator brushes, a jar of paint removal cream and a small mirror. Characters apply the paint to areas of exposed flesh in an attempt to blend in with their surroundings, giving the character a +1 to hide checks. A kit contains 12 uses.

Chain Leash- Made of chain links with a leather muzzle. This leash can be adjusted to fit any animal ranging in size from a small raccoon to a large sized wolf. The length of the leash varies from 6-12 feet long. When using a properly fitted chain leash on an animal, a character gets a +1 bonus to his/her animal handling checks. Chain leashes are available in other sizes and lengths to fit larger and smaller animals.

Falconry Gauntlet- Also called a perch glove, this is a heavy arm-length glove of thick leather upon which a falcon or hawk rests on.

Fishing Tackle- This meticulously crafted set of polished wooden lures, colorful flies made of feathers and catgut cord, useful in the hands of a skilled fisherman. If used by a character with the wilderness lore skill, having fishing tackle gives a +1 bonus when related to fishing.

Glass Cutter- This very simple instrument is usually a small diamond set into a suitable handle, or even one set into a ring. Such a tool will cut through glass fairly easy. Attempting an entry through a window is always superior in principle to attempting to force a door, since windows cannot be made as tough as doors and are less likely to be locked; but if they are locked, a glass-cutter is highly useful.

Rain Poncho- A one-piece garment resembling a large cloak with a head-sized hole in the center, a poncho helps keep the water out during rainstorms. Ponchos are made of canvas or similar material, often treated with waterproofing oil.

Scent Lure- A scent lure is a pungent liquid used to attract animals in the wild. Each scent lure attracts a specific type of animal such as deer, wolf, or fox; individual animals of the species find the odor irresistible.

Sleeping Bag- More comfortable, but bulkier than blankets, the sleeping bag is made of two layers of canvas or wool, stuffed with straw to keep in the warmth. The user slips inside the sleeping bag and secures the open side by fastening several buckles or tying a series of leather straps.

Snowshoes- each about three feet long, these oval-shaped wooden frames are laced with leather webbing to allow the wearer to walk on snow without sinking. A character newly introduced to wearing snowshoes moves at half his/her normal speed until he/she gets used to walking. After a day or so of practice, he/she moves at his normal speed.

Survival Kit- The kit contains a number of small items useful in emergencies: a scrap of parchment, a peace of graphite (for writing messages), a fish book, a 25-foot length of fishing line on a spool, one gold piece (good for bribing guards), a razor (for severing rope or inflicting 1 point of damage against captors), a wooden whistle (for signaling), a cloth pad (for use of an emergency bandage), and a few pieces of sugar candy and dried fruit (for quick energy, or luring animals). Similar items may be bought to customize individual kits.

Wrist Sheath- This small leather sheath is made to hold a dagger, and is strapped to the forearm (below the sleeve of a garment). This weapon can be flipped to the hand by an arm movement and the blade readied for action.

Magic is a rare form of energy in Altanya. Powerful and vague, the energy is gathered in the mage to create masterful illusions and deadly explosions. Magicians can only do damage, they cannot heal. Magic is a skill all its own, but I recommend that no more than one person in the party use it for it is very powerful and not many people in Altanya know how.

There are no boundaries for magic. The caster can create whatever he/she wishes if they successfully roll under their skill %. Magic starts off at 1% just like the rest of the skills but goes up in intervals of 2%.

Here is how you use magic, say you have a magic skill of 39% and you want to do a fireball for 8 damage, you would minus 3% for each 1 damage you wanted to do, so now you have a skill of 15%. You would then have to roll to see if your spell worked or fizzled out. If you got under your number then it worked and you did 8 damage to the intended body location and the rest of the body took half but if you did not get under the number then your spell fizzled out and it did nothing. If at any time a player roles a 1% on his/her dice then they automatically add 1% to there skill permanently. Now if they cast a spell that does not do damage, then the amount of % points it takes is decided by the DM.

Clerics are ran the same way except they can’t do damaging spells like fire ball or lightning bolt, but they can reverse heal to do damage just by touching there target. Though clerics can’t cast damaging spells, they can however summon things that deal damage for them, like a giant vine monster. Raising a magic skill is done by taking your magic-level and multiplying that number by 2, for example: you have a magic skill of 20%, all you would need is to save up 40 points and it would rise to a 22%.

Warning! If at any time a player role’s 100% on his/her dice then he/she looses half of their magic skill (rounded down), for example if you had 20% in your skill then it would drop to 10% permanently. The reason for such a big lose is simply the fact that when you work with magic, all the knowledge of what you are doing is in your head and when you mess up that bad, its your mind that cant take it.

See next page ->

Attack +/- Skills/Misc.

&#With +/- Unarmed / __________________/____lvl

8,3,9,5 Chest- ____---________________---35(8)---____Att/Par+/-