Mary is crying next door and I find she is devastated to discover she had been moved to the "party room" when she has expressed her intent to sleep with us. Mary Romer told her that Julia cried in her sleep and that we were looking for her best interest. I bring her to our room and she snuggles with her dad.

We need to get downstairs early today as we are heading to Pingyao and the Qiao family courtyard today - supposed to be a full day. We are without Rui as this is an unsanctioned day trip (she works for our adoption agency) but she has helped us to arrange a car/driver and I'm curious to see how we may handle this as we are so very dependent as well as emotionally connected to this lovely young woman.

Breakfast goes well. Julia is like a little chicken hawk still, watching every movement of food. Marty holds her and feeds her while the rest of us eat and she has switched her preference from Cheerios to porridge. We did not bring a bib and this is not a problem as every bit finds her mouth willingly and completely. Then I get her while Marty eats. She is interested in my egg pancake and I give her a morsel. She then begins a system of simple quiet pointing to the item she next would like to taste. She completes another half-bowl of porridge. We rush back upstairs to prepare for a full day out as we are to meet our driver downstairs at 8.

The drive... ah the drive is so much of the experience. We crane our necks to view the people and buildings and happenings. There is an opera outside one building and just a cacophony of sounds and sights and smells. We pass a very long stretch of car dealers. The road at one point turned to rutted dirt (which our driver was careful to attempt to take with as much ease as possible). Marty is transported back to his spring trip to Ethiopia and said that finally I could maybe relate to the road conditions there.

Pollution/smog is thick and biting. What looks like black smoke from a field turns to be a tree through the haze. We pass orchard after orchard of apples and pears - some with paper bags over each fruit. There are corn and sunflowers fields and vendors as well as trucks, carts (some pulled by animal or tractor) just filled several times past what I feel would be capacity. Then we see massive vineyards. Oh the grapes are just huge and look delicious. The air is laden with dust and pollutants and we're at times fighting it in our throats but yet so fascinated by this country and people that it's just another aspect of the whole picture. Julia is already asleep again before we arrive at the courtyard first (so we can return by way of the highway).

Before we enter the courtyard we stop at a washroom outside of the actual place and I encounter a quite nice/clean but quite Chinese squatty potty. I had previously seen Rui instruct our Mary on how to successfully master the technique and decide I need to utilize this opportunity. I did and I felt such a sense of accomplishment.

We pass a farmer's market in the small streets leading to the courtyard. The attraction itself is bustling and crowded - I'm reminded of Beijing's Forbidden City. The guides are in microphones with flags yet speak no English. We wander on our own and there are many signs with explanations in English, but not all. It is crowded, though, and I'm finding myself wanting to scurry ahead of the groups and away from the crowds.

And there can be too much attention. Mary has been such a liason for Chinese/American relations for pictures, but the process at times can be actual swarms.

We met with a group of about twenty younger (lovely, sweet and polite) tourists who were so very excited with her and would pass her along and snap, snap, snap, and I was happy when her feet stayed on the ground, yet she was becoming quite overwhelmed - as were we.

She has become much more shy and now will be more robotic in her stance. Nobody has ever been inappropriate or unkind to her and you hate saying "no" when a simple photograph is requested, yet we are weary. She is told how lovely, beautiful, and Barbie-like she is.

Julia has also attracted more attention as well. At one point I stayed in the courtyard while Marty and the Marys climbed to the second story and was surrounded by about a half-dozen Chinese. They talked and touched her softly and I smiled and turned so they could better see. They were speaking to each other and was surprised when one said "She looks Chinese." I responded that she was indeed Chinese - that we were blessed to have been able to have adopted her only yesterday. Julia is such a quiet, contented girl. Has it only been one day?

In one room there is one woman commenting about Julia, apparently, and I either step aside or Mary steps out behind me and she immediately begins a very loud, excited chatter that sends Mary to her father's arms. He said later that the woman almost knocked him off his feet pulling at her. I do not think there was any harm intended - just maybe more rare to have Caucasian children wandering around in this region. Mary is tired, though, and adjusting to this new sister thing and reverting a bit. Marty and Mary Romer continue to tease about how useful a stroller would/would not have been. We have only brought one Ergo carrier and Mary is not wanting to walk. She tells us she wants to be back in the car repeatedly, or better yet - Wisconsin.

It's now around lunchtime and rather than stopping for food, we have packed fruits and snacks and such and head on to Pingyao. Oh the history of this ancient walled city that although it has museums with artifacts inside - it is a real city. Rui had given us instructions (written) on how to rent a golf cart to wisk us through to the various points of interest. Julia continues to protest with each boarding but just momentarily. The wind whips by as we race these narrow streets competing with oh so many bicycles.

The city itself is very dusty/dirty and as we continue exploring we are all covered, yet happy. It is much less crowded on the tour portions of the city which I am grateful for, and there are many more signs and explanations in English. We find ourselves fascinated with the exhibits and detail in it all.

And something else - why did I think that China would seem so unfamiliar? I find myself amazed when I see petunias, dianthus, and canna lillies in the gardens. Once again I'm reminded of all the similarities as opposed to differences. When I happen upon a crepe myrtle bush in bloom I'm enthralled as it represents so much of the South and we don't find that in Wisconsin. Funny how I have my heartstrings pulled to my roots by something across the world.

And finally we head home. We've climbed the wall and are tired. Both girls have been marvelous but we're dirty and just ready to be inside. We are eating and drinking on the way back and I'm amazed at these girls. Mary has been amazing.

On a somber note -

We have commented repeatedly on the traffic and fear, as well as excitement associated with travel. Repeatedly I've heard or read how accidents are rare - well, not rare enough. We witnessed the immediate aftermath of such and death was raw and stark and graphic. It was traumatic and I wish we could eradicate it from our memories. I am grateful our children were sleeping. I pray for that individual that it was swift and for the families of the victim and driver.

We return "home" and Julia shows her first signs of enjoying her bath. During the day she has pointed at all sorts of things and cooed. She is fascinated with bubbles and how the water cupped in my hands can drip and make them disappear. Mary once again never awoke from the trip home. What a darling trooper.

Rui surprises us with coming to the hotel - she realizes we had asked about interpreting the Chinese instructions popping up with e-mailing pictures. How nice to have her. We now believe we have the tools to share and will begin the daunting task of choosing which pictures for which days. Thank you Amanda at Wish Upon a Stork for your marvelous services.

We're tired and drained emotionally as well as physically. Dinner is not ever officially addressed (except for Miss Julia) and we graze before collapsing to bed.

Goodnight from halfway around the world.

The Phillipson/Romer family combo