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Ball Pyton
My First Reptile The Ball Python or Python Regius is one of the most popular pet snakes in America and beyond. A beautiful snake to begin with, many new patterns and morphs are coming out daily. Ball pythons can range from $10.00 at a show to $150,000 for the first leucistic one ever bought. It is native to Africa prefering heat, high humidity, and a good place to hide. As a very calm snake, most ball pythons are reluctant to bite;instead they roll up in a tight ball hiding their head (hence the name, ball python). Balls commonly attain a length of 3'-5' and are fairly easy to maintain as long as they are captive bred and their care requirements are met. The biggest draw-back of owning a ball python is their tendecy to be picky eaters. Even when acclimated to captivity, Ball Pythons may fast for long periods of time. By purchasing from reputable dealers, and exercising proper captive care, these problems can usually be avoided. Ball Python-Python regius Origin-West Africa Size-3'-5' and rarely larger. Temperment/Handling-Usually docile, a good beginner snake if captive bred. Many Ball Pythons are wild caught and may take time to adjust to humans. Hardiness/Life Span-Very hardy if captive bred and as long as basic needs are met. They can live a long time in captivity. Shedding-Shedding of the skin is a very important part of every snakes life. As a snake grows or when the skin gets worn it becomes necessary to replace it with new. Prior to shed, a snakes eyes will begin to cloud up, turning a bluish color. Snakes should not be handled while in shed or showing the cloudy eyes. They have difficulty seeing and may mistake your hand for food. Ideally a snake will shed in one piece with the eyes being free and clear of any left over skin. A snake may shed in many pieces or have skin left over the eyes if humidity is not high enough. A good way to help facilitate shedding is to include a larger water dish for humidity and offer some rough branches to rub against. Housing-Ball Pythons should be kept in well ventilated, well secured enclosures. Like most other snakes, they climb well and if given the chance may escape. Enclosures may be very simple or a work of art. You care what it looks like more than your snake. All snakes require a hide spot to feel secure and prevent undue stress. Many products are available, it just depends if you want a basic cage or a something more natural. A heavy bowl filled with water should be provided at all times. Good substrates include paper towels, newspaper, or 2"-3" of aspen bedding. Never use cedar. The oils are very toxic to reptiles. Many enclosures are available specifically for reptiles. The enclosures include glass aquariums, molded plastic enclosures, plastic bins or shoe boxes, rack systems, fancy custom made cages, etc. All plastic containers need to be perforated with plenty of air holes. Too large of an enclosure may make hatchlings and juveniles feel insecure resulting in a refusal to eat. I personally keep all of my snakes in glass tanks with a well secured screen lid. Hatchlings can comfortably be housed in small plastic containers (10"x4"x3") or a 5-10gal gallon aquarium. Juveniles do well in 10-15gal aquariums or medium sized plastic bins. Adults require at the minimum a 20gal long aquarium although a 30gal long would be better. I prefer to house my snakes seperately just to prevent any problems. Enclosure maintenance-Snakes in general aren't very messy pets. Papers or bedding need to be changed after a messy meal or bowel movement (pooping). All cage items should be cleaned with a dilution of 1part bleach to 30parts water once every couple months making sure to thoroughly rinse. Water should be changed daily or as often as possible. Check all electrical devices as often as possible to help prevent fire hazards. Lighting-Most snakes are nocturnal (on the move at night time) requiring no UVA/UVB lighting, but it can't hurt. I use a basking or incandescent bulb suspended above one end of the enclosure. Never let the snake touch the bulb itself, for this can cause severe burns. The lights should be left on 12hrs a day throughout the summer months and 10 hrs a day in the winter. I recommend keeping all lighting on a timer, it saves the hassle of manually turning on and off the lights every day. Heat/Temp-Daytime temps should be 78-86F with a small basking spot of 86-90F Nighttime temps should be 75-80F. A reptiles surroundings determine it's body temp, so they move from end to end as needed. Temps should be slightly cooler in the wintertime. Heating options include, under tank heaters covering about 1/2 to 1/3 the length of the tank, heat tape, or a basking bulb in a ceramic fixture over head. My snakes do well with just a basking light suspended from above one end of the cage. Never use hot rocks, they often concentrate extreme heat causing severe burns. Humidity/Water-Ball pythons require relatively high humidity. This is easily accomplished by providing a water bowl at all times and misting every day or two. Aspen holds humidity better than paper substrates. Diet/Food-Ball Pythons will accept a variety of rodents, including mice, small rats, hamsters, gerbils, etc. Keep in mind that mice and rats are the best choice. Once a snake gets the taste for hamsters or gerbils it may be hooked and will refuse to eat anything else. Some suggest feeding your snake in a separate container than it's living quarters. It is believed to be very beneficial to both you and your snake. Your hand is not as likely to be confused for food and your snake would not take the chance of ingesting it's substrate. If housing snakes together, leave them in separate containers for 12-24hrs to reduce the chance of accidental cannabilism. Sometimes cage mates may be mistaked for food because of their rodent breath. Live or Prekilled-Snakes should be offered prekilled food if at all possible. When the rodents are frozen 99% of parasites are killed. Frozen rodents can't bite back causing injury to your snake. Although not all snakes will at first, most can be conditioned to eat frozen prey. The best way is slowly wave the prey in front of the snakes face with a pair of hemostats. If that does not work you can show a little of the rodents brain matter and it will often trigger a feeding response. If prekilled does not work after the first couple tries go for live. Live food is much better than no food at all. Some snakes will go for it easily, others require a hide spot to stalk from or other methods to get it to eat. If all attempts fail and the snake is losing weight, contact a qualified vet or local herp club. They can often times tell what you are doing wrong and possibly get the snake to accept a meal. Hatchlings should be offered a pinky mouse right after the first shed and weekly after that. Hatchlings are more likely to accept live than prekilled this early in life. Juveniles should be offered fuzzy to small mice weekly. It is at this age you should try prekilled food. Adults should be offered large mice or small rats once weekly. I prefer to feed two large mice instead of a small rat. Snakes are known to be able to consume large meals, but I like to keep it easier on them. Remove any live food if not taken within an hour or so. The rodent may cause damage and stress to the snake. Sexing-Snakes are sexed by probing. See a qualified vet or dealer and have them do the sexing for you. The depth the probe enters will tell what sex it is. Breeding- Phases/Morphs-Albino, Pie-Bald, Caramel-Albino, Pastel, Ghost, Desert Ghost, Leucistic, Striped, Clown, Spider, etc. Other-Ball Pythons can be great snakes if caution is used at the purchase. By buying captive bred, you greatly increase your chance of success!!! Disclaimer-Everything on this page is a matter of my personal opinion. This care sheet is merely meant to help get you started. Always do lots of other research and do what is in the best interest of you and your pet.
Last Updated-01/20/03
Aaron
Downing
ReptileAaron@aol.com
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