Green Anole Anolis caroliensis A Cheap Little Lizard (but  not as cheap as you think) The Green Anole or Anolis Caroliensis is the lizard most people are likely to keep as a first reptile pet.  They can be found in any pet shop and many Circus shows. Originating from the Southeast areas of the USA, Anoles can be found in hot humid areas, amongst trees and shrubs. Being so common in the wild, many anoles for sale are wild caught and suffer from stress and parasites. Anoles rarely sell for more than $8 and usually are in the $5-$7 range. Because these lizards are cheap, people assume they are easy to maintain in captivity. But anoles require expensive lighting and good cage conditions.  A cheap little lizard has turned into a expensive pet as many of the young owners soon find out. Green Anole-Anolis caroliensis Origin-Found in the SE USA. Size-Up to 8" Temperament/Handling-Skittish and difficult to handle.  The tail can come off easily.  Hardiness-This is a lizard that can be bought very cheaply. Most Anoles are wild caught, therefore more likely to suffer from parasites and mal-nutrition. Keep in mind it has many special needs. To often people neglect these needs leading to many Anoles dying in captivity at an early age. Housing-A 10gal tank is adequate for one or two anoles. A 20gal tank can hold 3-4 anoles and allows for many more cage arrangements. Keep in mind not to house males together. Use a screen lid for this species is adapt at escaping. Anoles love to climb, so branches should be provided as well as cork tubes for hiding.  Add a pothos to help with humidity. Newspaper, a sand/soil mixture or mulch is a good substrate.  Newspaper is cheap and easy to clean but mulch or soil looks much nicer. Enclosure maintenance-Papers should be changed as often as possible, removing fecal matter whe needed.  Soil substrates can be changed every couple months making sure to remove fecal (poop) matter when needed. All cage items should be cleaned with a dilution of 1part bleach to 30parts water every few months making sure to thoroughly rinse.  Water should be changed daily. Check all electrical devices as often as possible to help prevent fire hazards.  Lighting-Green Anoles are diurnal, and require special lighting such as the ReptiSun5.0 or ESU7%.  Both put off the best levels of UVA and UVB trying to mimic natural sunlight.  UVB produces vitamin/D3 which is important in the metabolizing of calcium and phosporous. It is also believed to help reverse the effects of Metabolic Bone Disease, a condition in which bones become weak and brittle making it difficult for the animal to eat and perform normal functions.  UVA helps Anoles to act natural as in eating habits and mating. The bulb should be within 12" of the basking spot for the lizard to get the full effect.  Remember glass filters out the beneficial beams of the bulb. These bulbs loose effectiveness after about 6 months and should be replaced. Light is still produced, but the beneficial rays are reduced if not non-existant. Lights should be left on 12hrs a day through the summer and 9-10hrs a day In the winter.  All lights should be on a timer so the Anoles get the same day/night cycle every day. Heat/Temp-The basking temp should be 85-90F.A good daytime temp should be about 75-80F. Night time temps should be 68-75F. Temps should be slightly cooler in the winter time. Never allow the lizard to touch the bulb. Always allow a cooler end to help with thermo-regulation. A reptiles surroundings determine it's body temp, so they move from end to end as needed. Heating options include, under tank heaters covering about 1/2 to 1/3 the length of the tank, heat tape, or a basking bulb in a ceramic fixture over head. Never use hot rocks, they often concentrate extreme heat causing severe burns. Humidity/Water-Anoles require high humidity. Enclosures should be misted daily.  Fresh water should be available at all times. Diet/Food-As a general rule food items should be no larger than the width of the head. Commonly used food items include commercially raised crickets, meal worms, wax worms, and various other insects. Wild insects are readily accepted, but make sure they haven't come in contact with any pesticides.  All food items should be gut loaded (fed a nutritious diet of various greens, potatoes, and cricket food) for at least 24hrs prior to feeding. Insects should be supplemented or lightly coated (the easiest way is in a plastic bag) with vitamins and minerals.  The proper use of supplements will lead to a happier, healthier lizard, and can reduce the risk of metabolic bone disease. I use Rep-cal Calcium/vitD3, Herptivite, and  Miner-All.  All can be found at any pet store.  Food should be offered 4-6 times a week. Remove all free roaming food items if not eaten within 15-20min.  Insects will foul water and stress the geckos. Sexing- Other-A cheap lizard, but very expensive to provide proper housing. Disclaimer-Everything on this page is a matter of my personal opinion.  This care sheet is merely meant to help get you started.  Always do lots of other research and do what is in the best interest of you and your pet. Last Updated-03/13/03 Aaron Downing            ReptileAaron@aol.com  https://www.angelfire.com/me4/pets