House Gecko Hemidactylus frenatus Various Gecko pics Escape Artist! The House Gecko or Hemidactylus renatus is a well adapted escape artist, managing to get out of the smallest spaces and taking advantage of any loss of concentration. Being so adapt at escaping, it is next to impossible to handle this species. Only growing to a size of 3"-5" it can be kept in a relatively small enclosure. A favorite for multi species terrariums. Unfortunately many of these are wild caught so caution against ticks and diseases should be used. This is also a favorite for feeding to snakes and other lizard loving animals. House gecko-Hemidactylus Frenatus Origin-West Africa Size-3" to 5" Life Span- Temperament/Handling-Very small, therefore skittish and difficult to handle.  The tail can come off easily. Hardiness-Varies as many are wild-caught. Housing-At least a 10gal for one gecko, though a 20gal would be suitable for two or three. Use a screen lid for this species can and will climb glass constantly. Never cage males together because they will fight. I use a sand/soil/peat mixture for substrate in my enclosure; yet others prefer a newspaper or an astroturf bottom.  This an arboreal species therefore climbing branches and cork bark should be placed inside the cage. Also provide a hide spot for each occupant, that's big enough for them to stretch out, including a hide box half filled with moistened vermiculite or spragnum moss to help facilitate with shedding. These will keep them from being as stressed. Finally a water dish and maybe some pothos should be added to help keep up humidity in the cage. Enclosure maintenance-Papers should be changed every couple weeks, removing fecal matter when needed.  Soil substrates can be changed every couple months, removing fecal (poop) matter when necessary.  All cage items should be cleaned with a dilution of 1part bleach to 30parts every few months making sure to thoroughly rinse.  Water should be changed daily.  Check all electrical devices as often as possible to help prevent fire hazards. Lighting-This is a nocturnal (on the move at night time) species requiring no UVA/UVB lighting, but it can't hurt.  I use fluorescent and a basking or incandescent bulb suspended above one end of the enclosure. Never let the lizard touch the bulb itself, for this can cause severe burns. The lights should be left on 12hrs a day throughout the summer months and 9-10 hrs a day in the winter.  I recommend keeping all lighting on a timer, it saves the hassle of manually turning on and off the lights every day. Heat/Temp-Spot lamps are good at providing heat. A good daytime temp should be about 81-89F.  Night time temps should be 70-80F. Temps should be slightly cooler in the winter time. Always allow a cooler end to help with thermo-regulation. A reptiles surroundings determine it's body temp, so they move from end to end as needed. Heating options include, under tank heaters covering about 1/2 to 1/3 the length of the tank, heat tape, or a basking bulb in a ceramic fixture over head. Never use hot rocks, they often concentrate extreme heat causing severe burns. Humidity/Water-Humidity should be kept fairly high. Misting about 3-4 times weekly.  Fresh water should be available at all times. I also like to include some live plants (check to make sure plants are safe). Diet/Food-As a general rule food items should be no larger than the width of the head. Commonly used food items include commercially raised crickets, meal worms, wax worms, and various other insects. Wild insects are readily accepted, but make sure they haven't come in contact with any pesticides.  All food items should be gut loaded (fed a nutritious diet of various greens, potatoes, and cricket food) for at least 24hrs prior to feeding. Insects should be supplemented or lightly coated (the easiest way is in a plastic bag) with vitamins and minerals.  The proper use of supplements can lead to a happier, healthier gecko and reduce the risk of metabolic bone disease. I use Rep-cal Calcium/vitD3, Herptivite, and  Miner-All.  All can be found at any pet store. Babies should be offered food items 1-2 times daily. Juveniles should be offered food items daily. Adults should be fed 5-6 times a week. Remove most free roaming food items if not eaten within 15-20min. A few remaining insects should not hurt, as these geckos hang out on the glass most of the time where crickets can not get to them. Sexing-Not sure, good luck. Other-An escape artist, I had one running around my house for a long time. Disclaimer-Everything on this page is a matter of my personal opinion.  This care sheet is merely meant to help get you started.  Always do lots of other research and do what is in the best interest of you and your pet. Last Updated-03/06/03 Aaron Downing            ReptileAaron@aol.com  https://www.angelfire.com/me4/pets Suggested Reading *Geckos Bartlett,Bartlett 1995 Barron's Educational Series *Lizards Of The World  Mattison  1992 Blandford  *Reptiles Magazine Various Authors & Issues