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GREEN IGUANA (iguana iguana) by Andres Merizalde

Iguanas can reach a total length of six feet or more so consider this when you purchase a cute ten-inch baby. Sexing an iguana is difficult when they are young but as the animal gets older it will develop its secondary sexual characteristics. Males usually have a more pronounced crest and are more robust in addition to being more orange during the breeding season.

Males also have a row of femoral pores in the underside of their thighs close to the vent which serve as a means for the iguana to mark its territory by way of specific secretions which signal to other males that a certain territory is occupied. Females also exhibit femoral pores but these are greatly reduced compared to the males. These reptiles exhibit some very interesting behaviors but the most interesting one is head bobbing which is exhibited by both males and females and is actually a territorial display. Another very interesting behavior is the way in which an iguana flicks its tongue as it investigates a certain area. The tongue is forked and as the iguana flicks its tongue it sends chemical messages to an organ called the Jacobson's organ located at the roof of its mouth. This is the iguanas sense of smell, it tastes the air and gets chemical information about its surroundings, and it can tell whether there is food near by, another iguana or maybe danger.

GENERAL CARE
Iguanas are exothermic which means that they regulate their body temperature by means of certain behaviors such as basking in the sun, lying under shade or submersing in water. This behavior is called thermoregulation and it is a very important aspect of keeping an iguana. An appropriate set up for an iguana should have basking spots which should reach 100 degrees Fahrenheit as well as areas which are around 80 degrees all within the same enclosure so that the iguana can choose its desired body temperature. This can be accomplished by using a spot lamp that is placed at a distance so that the iguana will not be able to reach it and burn itself. It is also very important that the iguana receives appropriate levels of full spectrum lighting in order for it to behave naturally and be in good health. Lights must emit appropriate levels of UVA and UVB rays in order to prevent metabolic bone disease. It is also recommended to expose your iguana to natural unfiltered sunlight that is the best source of ultra violet radiation. The Iguanas enclosure should allow it freedom of movement and preferably should be taller than wider. Iguanas are arboreal reptiles meaning that they spend a great deal of time climbing up trees providing food as well as shelter. Suitable sized branches should be added for the iguana to feel comfortable.

FOOD
Iguanas are herbivorous reptiles meaning that they mostly eat vegetable matter. Feed your iguana a variety of vegetables as well as fruit. Do not feed lettuce exclusively, which is a common mistake. A diet consisting of mustard greens, alfalfa, carrots, collared greens and dandelion leaves as well as its flowers will supply your iguanas with the necessary amount of nutrients needed for good health. Baby iguanas tend to be more insectivorous which is logical considering that they need more protein for their rapidly growing bodies. Feed insects sparingly, they should only make up about 30% of your baby iguanas diet. It is also important to supplement its diet with additional vitamin and mineral supplements especially calcium.

WATER
Iguanas love water and will totally immerse themselves if allowed to. Usually they will go to the bathroom inside their water container; this is perfectly normal behavior in nature and is exhibited primarily to hide their presence from the many predators that hunt them in their native lands. Make sure the water bowl is changed daily or when soiled. Iguanas will also drink droplets from foliage and cage walls.