In Dublin, rounds of soda bread accompany every meal, from breakfast to high tea. Each warm, thick slice makes a delectable platter for butter and honey or marmalade.

4 to 4 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1 tsp. salt
3 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. baking soda
1/4 cup sugar (optional)
1/8 tsp. ground cardamom or coriander (optional)
1/4 cup firm butter or margarine
1 egg
1 3/4 cups buttermilk

In a large bowl, stir together 4 cups of the flour, the salt, baking powder, and baking soda (and sugar and cardamom, if used) until thoroughly blended. Cut in butter with a pastry blender or 2 knives until crumbly. In a separate bowl, beat egg lightly and mix with buttermilk; stir into dry ingredients until blended. Turn out onto a floured board and knead until smooth (2 to 3 minutes).

Divide dough in half and shape each half into a smooth, round loaf; place each loaf in a greased 8-inch cake or pie pan and press to make dough fill pans. With a razor blade or sharp floured knife, cut a 1/2- inch-deep cross in top of each loaf.

Bake in a preheated 375* oven (350* for glass pans) for 35 to 40 minutes or until nicely browned.

Makes 2 loaves