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8.5.07
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FEEDING
A rabbit's needs are pretty basic. Food, water, and clean housing. There are many different feed formulas, watering systems, and then there's the extras which the rabbit may or may not need. Here I'll talk about my feeding routines. Keep in mind, this is for Netherlands. Other breeds may have different needs.
Pelleted feed. There are many different manufacturers (mills), and different formulas. Everyone has their own preference as to brand name, and you may be limited by what's available in your area. I'm pleased that Manna Pro is readily available to me and I can recommend it. Dwarf breeds have different needs than a larger breed. They need less protein and more fiber. Feed should contain no more than 18% protein, with 16% preferred. It's very important that the feed contains absolutely no meat or bone by-products of any kind. This can actually kill a Netherland! The protein will come from plant ingredients. For pet bunny owners, resist the urge to buy those fancy feeds at pet stores with the funny colored bits and seeds. A plain pellet is fine, and you can give fresh things as treats.
How much. This depends on the rabbit, age, and breeding stages.
..... Sr Bucks. As a rule, a 1/4 cup of pellets daily is plenty for a sr ND. Some may never eat that much. Most bucks will only eat what they need, but some will overeat if given the chance. An active buck will rarely gain much weight, but a lazy boy could get too fat.
..... Sr Does. I'll keep a show doe in good flesh until she is retired to the breeding pool. I like to keep brood does a bit on the boney side. Not skinny, just so I can feel their hip bones. Fat does will have a hard time getting pregnant and kindling. When retired from the show table, they will get daily hay and a bit less pellet.
..... Pregnant Does. About 2 weeks into the pregnancy, I'll increase the feed to almost free-feeding. Free-feeding is unlimited food available at all times. A few days before their due date, I decrease feed. The day before they are due, I give minimal feed. Ample hay is given every day to pregnant does.
..... Nursing Does. The first day after kindling, I give minimal feed. I increase the daily ration as the litter grows. By the time the kits are 2 1/2 weeks old, I'm free-feeding the doe. After this, the kits will be eating mom's pellets and hay, and all will require more feed. I continue free-feeding until the kits are weaned.
..... Weanlings. I cut back to minimal feed the day before I begin to remove kits from their mother. This is to reduce the production of milk, and help prevent weaning stress in both doe and kits. Weanlings get light feed for a couple days and lots of hay. I gradually increase to free-feed. I sometimes mix a probiotic like Acid-Pak in the weanlings' water for the 1st few days. Dry rolled oats (Quaker Oats) is sometimes offered in a separate bowl as a bland food that provides extra fiber.
..... Jrs. I free-feed jrs to fuel their growing bodies. When they reach the age of 6-8 mos, I cut back to sr rations.
Hay. Grass hay, not alfalfa. I was lucky to find a reliable source of good clean grass hay at a hay farm nearby. Grass hay comes in several forms. Timothy hay is considered the very best for rabbits, but except for expensive bags from pet supply stores, it's hard to come by in large quantities. The hay I get by the bale is called orchard grass, and it has long blades with very little weeds. It's sometimes called horse hay. Ask horse owners where they get their hay. When seeking your source of hay, look for this clean type of hay. If there is a lot of weedy plants mixed in, try another source. Make sure the hay is dry, and not dusty or moldy. Moldy hay will be dark in color with a musty odor, and often dusty. This is dangerous for rabbits. I also prefer 2nd cutting hay. This refers to the time of year the hay was baled. 1st cutting (spring) will contain more seed heads which the rabbits don't need. 2nd or 3rd cuttings are almost pure grass blades. Grass hay provides fiber and should be given often. Some ages require daily hay, such as weanlings, pregnant and nursing does. Molting rabbits should also have plenty of hay to help break down and move the fur they ingest while cleaning themselves out of their systems. And most bunnies really love their hay.
Water. Clean water daily. There are different ways to provide water. You can give it in water dishes or crocks which will require daily watering and cleaning. Water bottles are my preference. The rabbits can't foul this water, and depending on the size of the bottle, can last for several days. A large (32 oz) bottle will supply a growing litter or cageful of weanlings for a day or two. This is especially nice if you are away from home for a couple days. The drawback to water bottles is that they are hard to clean, and can fail due to clogging or losing vacuum in which all the water drips out. You have to keep an eye on them. I've recently discovered the beauty of recyclable bottles. I get replacement caps/nozzles from a rabbit supply dealer for much less than an entire bottle. I drink the flavored waters that come in 1 liter bottles. 16 oz plastic pop bottles work well too. These are perfect for the rabbits when emptied. I rinse them out thoroughly, and store with the cap on. Instead of cleaning a bottle, I can simply throw it away and give a new one. I have a hose from the outside tap extended to the rabbitry to make watering easier. A special bottle-filling nozzle was a great investment, also available from supply dealers. I always keep a few gallon jugs of water filled as well. Recycled gallon size vinegar bottles make perfect containers for extra water. I can fill a water bottle that has emptied faster than the rest without having to turn on the water tap. This also covers emergency loss of water supply due to an electrical outage. A big rabbitry will benefit from an automatic watering system. This is expensive to set up, but will pay for itself in less watering chores. I'll do this someday.
Extra suppliments. Other foods are not really necessary, but you can give them as conditioning foods or occasional treats. Sunflower seeds (just a pinch), and Quaker oats are good for conditioning show bunnies. They really enjoy this "cereal" treat. I give the cereal in a separate dish as the buns will just waste their regular feed to get at the good stuff. Fresh greens or fruits can be given in very small quantities as treats. Greens could be clean grass, dandelions, or plantains right out of your untreated lawn. These types of greens can tempt a bunny who is off their feed and not eating. Fruit can be bananas, apples, pineapple, or carrots. Always give new foods in very small amounts to see how the bunny's system handles it. Juicy things could cause diarrhea. Never give lettuce. It's mostly water, and has no value for a rabbit. Corn should also be avoided. It's high in sugar and starch which the rabbit doesn't need.
Related Info: Glossary
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